Andy looking at what you`ve said I think the clutch may be OK it just releases at the bottom of the stroke. The light feel at the top may not be anything to worry about
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Andy looking at what you`ve said I think the clutch may be OK it just releases at the bottom of the stroke. The light feel at the top may not be anything to worry about
Cheers
I'm hoping that is the case. The piston in the slave cylinder doesn't return all the way back in the cylinder, it sits at about the halfway point. When pushing the pedal I only have half the travel to engage the clutch, hence why I thought a longer rod would solve this and ectually push the piston back all the way when the pedal is released. Tried to make it slip, but I couldn't, so I suppose I just have to get used to the pedal feel.
Cheers
Andy mate the piston does not return fully as when the clutch wears it it has got to return further in to the cylinderso we do not lengthen the push rod I know there are some adjustable push rods on certain vehicles but the factory engineers know what their doing so stick with the solid rod .You will find that as the clutch wears that the release height will change and it will gradually release higher this will take a long time.
all the best Pearcey
Not entirely true that. I just replaced my GU clutch with a 4Terrain kit and the PP was unpainted... Anyway, if the clutch engages just off the floor, not much to worry about IMO. If it's gonna go, its gonna go. Pull the boot back wher ethe fork comes out and try to get some lube on the bearing carrier where it slides on the input shaft housing. Might just need a lube up.Quote:
Originally Posted by pearcey
I had a very similar problem and about 2 months later the dual mass flywheel let go, so I then converted to a solid flywheel and pressure plate conversion, if its anything like mine were I had to push the pedal almost to the floor to engage then I feel you could be in a similar boat
I also experienced a small vibration in the flywheel area while driving before the dual mass separated
I am not a mechanic this is what happened to mine
Cheers guys. I will get some lube on things as soon as I get a chance. How easy is it to do this? There isn't much room but I suppose all I need is a thin stick or long screw driver with a little grease on the end?
I'm pretty sure the gq doesn't have a dual mass flywheel, so I'm sure I'm safe in that regards.
Cheers
Andy
Sorry M8 not knowing what you are driving I guess it was of me to assume you we're driving a gu as reference was made to a gu clutch so for my input yrs and a gq does not have a dual massQuote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Great advice mudski! I pulled the boot back and gave the fork pivot point a lube up. I wasn't able to reach the bearing carrier shaft to lube it, if anyone here has done this successfully tell me how you've done it. But either way, just lubing the pivot point had made a vast difference to how the clutch feels. Funnily enough it almost feels as if I've regained the full clutch pedal.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Now that I think about it, when I mentioned that the slave cylinder piston rests at about the half way point, it's more at the 1/3 point. And even so, this shouldn't be the cause of the soft pedal because the piston isn't returning fully, I guess it's like an automatic adjustment mechanism. I'm thinking another clutch bleed and hopefully this will solve it. If not I might look at the master cylinder and try adjusting there. Hopefully this made sense...
Cheers
Andy
When the carrier is dry it will tend to stick to the input shaft housing. If you can use a long screw driver or what ever with some grease on it, and you get the grease on it, I bet it will feel much better. Something I should have done when I had the gearbox out of my GU is make a grease hose from the carrier to the bell housing. So I could grease it easily. All the prime movers use them and it would be real handy I reckon for the 4by's...