HI Evil Twin I only use Merit or wire directely where Possible, What sockets of Mine you you happy With, maybe I can clear it up.
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HI Evil Twin I only use Merit or wire directely where Possible, What sockets of Mine you you happy With, maybe I can clear it up.
My Engel is pwered from a merit socket wired to the 2Nd AUX battey wired to the back of the centre console via a thermal fuse. With a Cig Lighter as well
IMO cig Lighters have no place in todays modern 4X4. I have cig outlets incase others have and use them instead of merit. I prefer merit
more positve. Always hear horror stories of cig plugs failing. If I had my way I would wire my engel permanently no plugs at all, more plugs conections
the more stuff can and will go wrong
Hiya Cobber... sorry, my bad, I was typing in a rush trying to catch up after so many days away and it didn't come out right.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
What I was trying to illustrate was that if someone has a draws then the "drop in" sockets and power panels like you have that fit in that factory spot can't be used. I mentioned you because in your post you were kind enough to include the piccy.
Those drop in Panels etc are quite a nice workable solution for most people albeit some are a tad expensive but I happily wire them in for people.
Totally agree with you on Ciggy plugs and I love the Engel fridge plug because it is screw in so no mid trip fridge disasters and it is only a 10 second job to put the ciggy adapter head back on the fridge lead if you need to run the fridge on someone elses's gear
My rule of thumb when at all feasible is...
Fridge socket - Engel style
General use socket up to 10 Amp - Merit style ( and carry/make a couple of adapters)
General use socket for Solar/Trailer/Power Breakout Box's/etc - Anderson (sml)
Heavy duty/High Power - Anderson (lge)
You gotta remember the red arc is 100A constant.. It can handle 500+A burst for 5 seconds which is more than enough for cranking a 4.2 diesel..
A 200A red arc is 200 constant and 800a burst..
200A.. That's a lot of draw..
You can always jump the solar onto the 2nd battery via its own inverter. A little more wire but IMO its better to keep things separate and simple
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
I don't plug engel in there I plug behing centre console, as you know shorter the better.
I also use a digital tempcontroller, best this I ve ever made temp only varies 2 degrees if that, Your bad ,my bad bad we'er all bad 'all sorted
Hiya Westy...Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy's Accessories
Eggzackery my point as well so totally agree. When I'm not sure how much winching the OP does I tell people 100 amp is fine for 99% of us BUT if you are a compulsive wincher (E.T. double checks spelling) then they pull past 100 amps pretty quick and the 200 is the weapon of choice to avoid pitted or welded contacts.
I know you and many others will know the following already however for others following the thread.....
Any of the VSR's from any manuf will normally let go as soon as you load the winch as the voltage drops into the toilet and trips the low voltage sense. You need to use the o'ride to hold the VSR in same as for a flat battery if you want to parallel the batteries for load share when winching. The other alternative is not to override and to leave the winch load on the one battery/alternator and then the other is charged up if needed.
Either method works and has arguments for and against so pretty much a personal preference and dependant on circumstances so no real biggee.
That's because there's not one.Quote:
Originally Posted by lorrieandjas
It all depends on what your individual needs are..... how often you go away, how long the vehicle remains un-started for, how long it is driven for while you are away, the size of your solar panels, the load on the second battery, if the battery is mounted under the bonnet or in the rear of the vehicle....etc
Going by what you have posted, you will need at least a start/deep cycle battery mounted under the bonnet.
Connect your winch to your main/cranking battery.
I wouldn't worry about being able to connect solar panels to your dual battery isolator, most are only able to handle small panels anyway (unless you are planing on mounting a smaller panel permanently on your roof). With the larger panels I would just set up an anderson plug that you could plug the panels (and it's own regulator) into when stopped.
If it was me I would go for the ARB battery tray, the RedArc smart solenoid and a start/deep cycle battery.
Make sure the cable/wiring is of suitable size and a fuse/circuit breakers are used.
If you carry jumper leads, you don't need to worry about connecting the switch that links the two batteries for emergency starting.
2 x Yendor. This would seem like the most appropriate options for you. The only other thing might be the Redarc BCDC1225. Gives a solar reg with it. Isolators for good for crank but multistage is better for deepcycle batteries from my understanding.
I see what your getting at.. And you make a good point.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
Would the winch draw be enough to shut off the connection even with the engine running?
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
Try and stay away from wet cell batteries if possible, They are a tad messy but more powerful than agm or similar. 110 would be big enough, you need to sit down and write a note of anything 12 v you will be using, you'll be surprised how it will add up. now you added up all watts used, divide that buy 12v. that'll leave the amps your using. then divide by 8 to get the hour rate, at this stage you may have fainted, alls good, your battery will handle this, backed by a decent 12 voly solar panel.,If you have concerns just PM. IMO it's best to let the solar run as much as possible at camp, and please remember leave your start battery for just that starting, you have the camper for anothr drycell battery for lighting duting etc, just make sure your alternator is minimum 100amps, more to it than just buying battery