ZD30 intermittent, cutting out under load / boost

Cheers for the feedback all.
As mudski said, the easiest $90 they made and it pi$$ed me off.
The engine light never came on at all so I didn't think it was 'limp mode'. Engine light comes on when this occurs doesn't it??
I still have to send Hi-Tech Diesel an email so they can explain to me exactly which vacuum hose it was, cause its got me stuffed.
Theres ones they installed while doing the Dawes valve, and all others are well out of the way.
I dropped the psi from about 17 to 16ish and also zip-tied the butterfly valve open before it hits the manifold, which I have recently been told plays a part in restricting air flow and over-boost.
Please correct me if I have been told a furphy on this one.
Pushed it on the home run and it ran SWEEEEEEET!!!! Didn't climbe above 18-19psi at all
No lag, no drop in torque during up-shift (manual) maybe due to the butterfly being constantly open, and smooo-oooth driving.

Thanks to you all for your input.

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Originally Posted by Lieney

Cheers for the feedback all.
As mudski said, the easiest $90 they made and it pi$$ed me off.
The engine light never came on at all so I didn't think it was 'limp mode'. Engine light comes on when this occurs doesn't it??

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Not always. Mine never came on, only when I stupidly set the dawes for about 25psi :)

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I still have to send Hi-Tech Diesel an email so they can explain to me exactly which vacuum hose it was, cause its got me stuffed.
Theres ones they installed while doing the Dawes valve, and all others are well out of the way.
I dropped the psi from about 17 to 16ish and also zip-tied the butterfly valve open before it hits the manifold, which I have recently been told plays a part in restricting air flow and over-boost.
Please correct me if I have been told a furphy on this one.

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I have never heard of that but there is a first time for everthing... In a manual the butterfly doesn't really do anything, as once you accelerate it opens and when your idle it closes. I do believe a few manual owners here have removed the butterfly and it made sweet f.a difference anyhow. But the butterfly is needed for auto owners, I believe again, because something to do when the car is idle its needed to help control the revs so it wont stall. There is a thread on this somewhere I did read.

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Pushed it on the home run and it ran SWEEEEEEET!!!! Didn't climbe above 18-19psi at all
No lag, no drop in torque during up-shift (manual) maybe due to the butterfly being constantly open, and smooo-oooth driving.

Thanks to you all for your input.

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Thats because you have dropped the boost, not holding the butterfly open. But i could be wrong. It may be only 1psi but thats all it took for mine to stop going into limp mode.

I have the same problem with mine, I dont have a dawes or boost gauge but put it down to computer picking up an over boost & cutting out,
does it around 100ks-2800revs

bloke at work had a similar problem I suggested a fuel filter change cleared up his problem

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Originally Posted by choppie

I have the same problem with mine, I dont have a dawes or boost gauge but put it down to computer picking up an over boost & cutting out,
does it around 100ks-2800revs

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Best you get it sorted I reckon. Boost and EGT gauges first, then the Dawes and EGR plate, then needle valve, then catch can, then 3inch zorst, then chip, then a bigger intercooler, then! You have no money left for anymore then's...

[QUOTE=I set mine back to 15psi, found no difference is performance between 15 and 17psi so its no loss. Only I don't get limp mode now.
I would bet my left and last nut that if you reduce your boost the problem will disappear.[/QUOTE]
Well Mudski, I do very much appreciate the feedback I have received from you, Boots, threedogs, roofy, Big_Fletch, Dieselsmart, the evil twin and many others on this issue. :)
It has been driving me up the wall as I have not found the answer. I lowered the boost to about 13psi and it goes the same as at 17psi until after 3200 with foot flat, then it hits an intermittent 'flat spot'. Not one flat spot, but feels as though you were having a fit on the go pedal. No lights etc and boost gauge / vacuum dopping slightly (1-2psi) causing the pulse. As if the boost is cutting in and out.
Also got an issue turning right and then straightening up (doesn't happen turning left) and the engine dying followed by a big cloud of diesel smoke (had this verified by trained eyes).
If I keep my foot flat around the roundabout / corner and then straighten up it dies & then after a single splutter or so the power returns. Its almost as if when turning the vacuum dies completely and the actuator on the turbo sits in the 'low pressure' area until vacuum returns. Monitoring vac and boost there is a considerable drop after turning.Vac 30hg" to 5hg" Boost 15psi-3-5psi.
I have checked everything suggested & everthing I can think of, inlcuding Google.
I plan to get an electric vac pump from somewhere to see if I can isolate this as an issue.
So far I have checked, rectified, adjusted or swapped out the following (including test drives between fiddling): checked engine mounts, checked ECU mouting and wiring, boost pressure adjusted from 13psi-19psi, Dawes valve checked clean, turbo & flange etc mounting, egr flanges & mounting, oil level, intercooler (leaking & now repaired +2psi), inlet manifold leaks, remove and check vacuum pump, all vacuum & pressure lines replaced & purged (ensure none were being ppinched), swapped vacuum lines around to different areas, zip-tied butterflies open, check security of all electrical connections to engine I can find, test MAF & then replace (nothing wrong but ran smoother), test function of actuating lever on turbo, fuel filter drained / checked (no water), air cleaner checked, good enough.
I have either missed something or there is another issue I have yet to discover. I reckon vac pump issue.
No load - full rpm range
Load - problems above 3200rps approx
Round corner - problems anywhere from 1500rps upward but sometimes doesn't happen until higher RPM
Adam from DieselSmart said he might be able to assist. I'll keep you in the loop.
Thanx again

Did you end up changing the fuel filters??? They bring on the engine light.
Can't you ask a member nearby that has the same mod to check and make sure yours is 100% correct.
You should have no hoses going to vacuum solenoid

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Did you end up changing the fuel filters??? They bring on the engine light.
Can't you ask a member nearby that has the same mod to check and make sure yours is 100% correct.
You should have no hoses going to vacuum solenoid

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Threedogs, I drained the filter thinking water might be in there. I have not replaced it yet as I do not believe I am having a problem with fue. Cheers for the heads up and might just do that tomorrow anyway.
Original solenoid for actuator is not in circuit.
Vac pump goes to Dawes, then to turbo actuator. Other input is from inlet boost.
Read over all the diagram etc I have to make sure and found the 'air flow' solenoid not in use. Does nothing much anyway.
Fuel filter it is tomorrow

Changed the fuel filter when I got home from work. No water on obvious debris that I could see.
Drove it like I stole it & no splutter at high rpm, under load while pushing it up the highway. Makes sense to me at high rpm at near full noise with a clean filter. Thanks Threedogs & macca86 for the reminder.
What i don't get is that it didn't choke & smoke around the roundabout though. I am curious why this in particular happened but only after turning right. Glad to hear some theories cause I got no explanation except ZD30.
Glad I'm a member of the forum.

You'll find a lot of people here think winding the boost right up will turn their 4x4 into a rocket ship. no two are the same,the best boost is what ever suits your set up. Mine as an example
runs great at 14psi and like a dog higher, I'll get it turboed now Its running well. higher boost no neccessarily better.