MK buying advice

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Finly Owner

Andy, My ComradMQ Mad didmention to check for turbo, because some clever di.ks put the trbo rocker cover on non-turbo SD33.

It looked cool saying it had aturbo, but sounded stock!


Tim

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Hiya Tim, yes I'll be checking for the turbo itself. I've added this to my "checklist". But it won't be for a few weeks yet until I can next get to it.
Gotta get past my sister's wedding and also the mrs' resistance to acquiring it - not that she should complain - her car is currently at the doc's and the repair bill so far is exceeding the market value of her car!
But hey, she's driving Toot Toot (the exy) today so she might even come to like it. :)

Do you have any additional information on what spec "van" models came in?
Particularly 1985. The rego engine number starts with SD33 so I'm hoping that's what is still under the bonnet.

The way I'm looking at things at the moment is to arm myself as much as possible, including writing up and printing out a checklist sort of thing, so I can make the most of the time when I next get to see it.

Now to keep writing up this check list and search the forum as to what sort of hubs these critters came with.

(You know, even if I don't end up with this vehicle, everything I learn about it will find a use somewhere down the line with something else - knowledge is always an investment)

Here we go. Worked out how to add a picture of the critter...

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/fedd9a39.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Finly Owner

Andy, My ComradMQ Mad didmention to check for turbo, because some clever di.ks put the trbo rocker cover on non-turbo SD33.

It looked cool saying it had aturbo, but sounded stock!


Tim

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So that would make it a "Turboed" non turbo ???
Must admit ive got a "Turbo" rocker covered non turboed SD33 here,(dont ask ???)
They definately dont make em go any better

OP,
If your in doubt, just take a few pics of said beast and throw em up, engine bay area, interior, stuff like that

Mornings smileys,

What should be done to an SD33 / SD33T engine prior to starting it after its been sitting about not turned over for a while (ie. could be 6 months or longer)?

I was thinking that first I should check the battery:
- apparently the battery is relatively 'new'
> I'm not sure yet just what 'new' means and how long it may have been discharged (if it actually is)
- terminal corrosion
> cleaning if necessary
- electrolyte level (if it can be accessed)
> topping it up

? > should I use distilled water, or a battery conditioning solution?

- I'd run the jumper leads from my critter over to the battery and let mine charge other battery (just letting my engine idle) for a little while (15 minutes perhaps) before thinking of doing the jump start.
> unfortunately I won't have the luxury of putting the battery on a charger over night.

? > do you think I should leave this charging longer before attempting a jump?

? dunno what else I should check on the battery


After that battery I was thinking maybe the air filter
- opening up the box and giving it a vacuum maybe
- taking out the airfilter and at least giving it a bit of a knock to loosen off any dust
- note, if buying this vehicle I would subsequently change the filter, but I don't want to go replacing these things until I've fired it up and decide to buy...

? anything else that I should particularly look for in this area?


Oil... this one is tricky?
- I don't want to go spending money on changing the oil straight away...
- But... I have no idea when the last oil change was. It is potentially years ago. Although it may have not done a lot of running, I'm guessing that oil may have gone off / degraded / absorbed moisture, or any number of other things during its time sitting idle.
- So I would pull the dipstick first and check the oil level...
- Then I would have a look at the colour of it. I'm presuming it'll be a nice black colour, but could be brown with white or who knows.

? Provided there is enough oil in there, will it matter if I fire it up without the oil change, and perhaps drive it for a kilometre?
> note that if I buy it I will be dumping all the oil, putting new stuff in, perhaps running it for a short while (a couple of hundred kms perhaps), then adding flush treatment and changing the oil again...

- I think I might just leave the oil initially. Might not be the best...but, yes, but, no, but...

- But what about the upper engine and oil...
> all the oil I figure will be in the sump
> so cranking will initially be against a dry engine... I don't like that idea.

? > is there a way I can squirt some oil around the upper engine through the 710 cap?
(No, I'm not really blonde, not even bleached. Just remembered that joke for some reason)

> With an engine with spark plugs, you could pull the plugs and squirt oil into the top of the cylinder head. These don't have sparkies...

? > Is it worthwhile trying to do this by pulling the glow plugs?

? > Am I just trying to find too much work for myself to do just for starting an engine to make sure it runs???

? > Is there any risk that any rings could have bound themselves and hence would crack when the engine is cranked?

? > Next million questions?

? > What else should I look at in this oily department?


More fluid bits
- Brakes, check the level in the reservoir.
> I guess I can pump them a few times to see if I can get pressure feedback on the pedal
> If I don't I guess I will have to investigate somewhat further

? Clutch, guess similar deal to brakes?

- Diffs - I won't worry about them yet...

- Coolant
> Need to check level

? > If it requires a top-up, what coolant is recommended for these radiators? I'm assuming at this stage that its an original radiator.

? > Why are they called radiators? They don't cool by radiating heat, their primary cooling mechanism is via convective heat transfer. Should probably be called convectors.


Fuel
- Don't know the last time fresh fuel was put in.
- I could add a bit of fresh diesel, but I don't know how much is currently in the tank and hence whether it would make any difference.
- Same deal with adding a diesel conditioner I guess. Would take a while for it to start running through the filters and lines.

? Would it need to be primed?

? On my M9R there is a little squeeze bulb hand pump for priming the diesel in case you ever run it dry. Is there something similar on the SD33?



I guess what I'm looking for here is the minimum I need to do to safely awaken her from her slumber.
If all is a go for acquiring this critter then a lot of stuff would then be changed.

? Anything else that I should be checking before waking her from her slumber?

Easy,
Check all the fuilds, engine top up with proper diesel oil,petrol oil IS different,but if theres enuf in there,thatll be fine
Check the brake master cylinder and the clutch master cylinder and top up IF neccessary,but for the initial,half to full is fine
Radiator, just top it up at this satge with water,its only an initial start
Fluids dont spend anything on much you mite not buy it,so could be a waste of money
The engine will be fine,its more so the time the diesel has been sitting wether it could or mite not start,if not too long itll be fine
Dont bother with pulling glow plugs out at this stage,ensure the battery has enuf grunt and itll usually start
Double glow the glow plugs for the initial start up, turn the key to ignition, youll hear a click sound, then a few seconds later another click, then turn key back to off and repeat,double glowed
Youll also need to hear the edit motor work,sort of like an actuated arm moving,if this doesnt happen itll never start
The diesel battery needs alot of power,if the one in said patrol is half flat a normal car battery via a jump usually wont do a thing
Thats for the initial wake up period, after a purchase has been done well thats different and things will need to be done, but if it doesnt look good at this stage then it doesnt matter
Theres diesel patrols here, that dont get started for awhile, maybe months and there fine


Another tip :
IF after the initial start up , you can let it sit for awhile, recheck the dipstick and check the oil,if theres milky residue,or water molecules on the dipstick (this can be checked before start up as well)then the head gasket or head has issues

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MQ MAD

Easy,
Dont bother with pulling glow plugs out at this stage,ensure the battery has enuf grunt and itll usually start
Double glow the glow plugs for the initial start up, turn the key to ignition, youll hear a click sound, then a few seconds later another click, then turn key back to off and repeat,double glowed
Youll also need to hear the edit motor work,sort of like an actuated arm moving,if this doesnt happen itll never start
The diesel battery needs alot of power,if the one in said patrol is half flat a normal car battery via a jump usually wont do a thing
Thats for the initial wake up period, after a purchase has been done well thats different and things will need to be done, but if it doesnt look good at this stage then it doesnt matter
Theres diesel patrols here, that dont get started for awhile, maybe months and there fine


Another tip :
IF after the initial start up , you can let it sit for awhile, recheck the dipstick and check the oil,if theres milky residue,or water molecules on the dipstick (this can be checked before start up as well)then the head gasket or head has issues

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thanks MQ Mad. For the jump start I'd be jumping off my Exy with it's engine running. It's a diesel as well so should take the load quite easily.
Not sure what the edit motor is.
I'll print all this info out so I can have it with me.
Just a thanks on the post doesnt seem enough. Ta muchlies for your help sir.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AndyExy

Good mornings smileys.

I've just been offered an MK patrol. The owner is no longer with us, and his wife wants to be rid of it.

Don't know how much for yet. Don't know if it's worth taking yet. No, I don't know a lot yet. Only had a brief external inspection so far.

I know it's a 1985 model. I know its silver I know it's got a SD33 variant engine.

Is there a way to determine from the engine serial number whether it's turbo or normally aspirated?
I found a post to answer this. Thanks Tim! (Finly) According to your model facts, if its a 1985 model as the rego sticker claims, there it can only be a turbo SD33 as its a wagon.

Yes I know. I'm spending more time going through previous posts before making more questions. Except what I'm doing is starting on page 5 of threads then moving my way forward.

Ta muchlies
Andy

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G'day Andy
Did not notice if anyone else mention this but the Engine number will have a "T" at the end if its Turbo eg; SD3375427868T .

This is not to say that a previous owner has not fitted an aftermarket turbo. Be careful if this is the case as the standard SD33 engine is not designed to take a turbo without modification.
There are quite a few differences between the NA engine and the Factory Turbo engine.
**Edit I just noticed you say it may have only been sitting for 6 months or so, Not much to worry about in that case just charge the battery, check oil & water and turn her over.

I have jump started my Turbo MK a few times from my 93 ford falcon without a problem. Just hooked up the jumpers and off I went.
As long as it was running OK last time it was driven all I would do is have a good visual look over and under the engine, Check and charge the battery, check the oil. If its black it should be OK. Check the radiator and coolant reservoir to make sure they are full. If not top it up fully with water. One thing though, if you can, drain the fuel tank and put fresh in, otherwise there may well be a heap of water in the fuel tank from condensation over the years of non use. Don't worry too much about changing the oil just to fire it up but for sure if you buy it, make that the first job.
It will probably be a bit smokey at first but if the smoke clears pretty quickly as she warms up and there is only a small amount of grey/white smoke that is a good sign. Puff of black smoke as you pump the accelerator is also OK. Blue smoke can be a worry but if she has been sitting a few years there might be a bit of oil in the cylinders. If it continues to blow blue smoke that is not good. (In saying this don't mistake white/grey smoke for blue smoke)
Shut it down after a minute or so running, leave for 5 minutes and then check the oil again to see it is still nice and black

How much $$$ are you looking at paying for this truck??

Cheers Ric

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ric

G'day Andy
Did not notice if anyone else mention this but the Engine number will have a "T" at the end if its Turbo eg; SD3375427868T .

This is not to say that a previous owner has not fitted an aftermarket turbo. Be careful if this is the case as the standard SD33 engine is not designed to take a turbo without modification.
There are quite a few differences between the NA engine and the Factory Turbo engine.
**Edit I just noticed you say it may have only been sitting for 6 months or so, Not much to worry about in that case just charge the battery, check oil & water and turn her over.

I have jump started my Turbo MK a few times from my 93 ford falcon without a problem. Just hooked up the jumpers and off I went.
As long as it was running OK last time it was driven all I would do is have a good visual look over and under the engine, Check and charge the battery, check the oil. If its black it should be OK. Check the radiator and coolant reservoir to make sure they are full. If not top it up fully with water. One thing though, if you can, drain the fuel tank and put fresh in, otherwise there may well be a heap of water in the fuel tank from condensation over the years of non use. Don't worry too much about changing the oil just to fire it up but for sure if you buy it, make that the first job.
It will probably be a bit smokey at first but if the smoke clears pretty quickly as she warms up and there is only a small amount of grey/white smoke that is a good sign. Puff of black smoke as you pump the accelerator is also OK. Blue smoke can be a worry but if she has been sitting a few years there might be a bit of oil in the cylinders. If it continues to blow blue smoke that is not good. (In saying this don't mistake white/grey smoke for blue smoke)
Shut it down after a minute or so running, leave for 5 minutes and then check the oil again to see it is still nice and black

How much $$$ are you looking at paying for this truck??

Cheers Ric

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Thanks Ric. The engine number I have is off the rego sticker and it doesn't have any T. Doesnt have as many numbers as your example either. Guess I'll find out. :)

Is there a fuel drain point in the bottom of the tank? I know there is on aircraft so you can remove the water from the tank.

As for price, that's yet to be negotiated. At this point it's for me to define. But as it's pseudo family I have to be fair. So I'll have to investigate that aspect as well, taking into account I'll also be getting the rwc done.

The numbers were not correct. just random numbers ( should be 6 numbers after the SD33) but it should have the SD33 at the start and the "T" at the end.

I just checked my Gregory's manual and it indicates there is a fuel drain plug in the tank, BUT if it's only been 6 or so months I would not worry too much. Maybe just add a bit of fresh fuel.
If you are concerned just undo the plug a bit and let a couple of litres out. Any water should be sitting at the bottom of the tank.
Probably better to not bother otherwise you might end up having to prime the fuel pump again.

As I said above, If its only 6 or so months I would not be worrying too much as everything should be fine to just fire her up, as long as it was running OK when it was last being used.

Good Luck
Cheers Ric

I have a pair of barns doors that we could do a deal on (they are silver as well)

I have a tail gate & lift up window, was looking at itting the doors - but would be a lot of work

Im in melton