Recovery Points

something worth mentioning is an article in 4x4 action mag(#156) where they did test on snatch straps to breaking limit and a wet strap can 14% less than a dry one tested with tjm strap and a strap with a few twist had a 25% drop in load limit tested with a terrain tamer strap.
Sometimes u can’t help getting it wet but its easy to take out the twist

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Originally Posted by taslucas

I think the link is wrong? Just takes me to an introduction page? Am I missing something growlers?

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That link takes me to the menu page for the Safety section of the Forum.

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Originally Posted by taslucas

I only see one page with 10 posts, no recovery info.....? Is it perhaps because I'm on tappatalk at the mo?

tappin it

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Ill try it on my crappatap an get back to ya

Works alright for me on tappacrappa mate

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Originally Posted by megatexture

you can use the tie down points as long as you use a tree trunk protector or simular(rated) short strap attached with 2 bow shackles one on each tie down point and thread the tree trunk protector threw the snatch to even the load (don’t use a bow shackle to attach the snatch to the tree trunk protector).
hope this makes sense

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The weakest link in a recovery is your enemy, using a "Tie Down" point is very bad advice sorry mate, DO NOT DO THIS EVER! Regardless of the rigging you set up, your connected to a TIE DOWN POINT. There is Zero effort by the manufacturer to make this a rated point and it is for Tying down your Broken car to a flat bed for shipping only.


The first pic in this thread is a Nissan Rated Recovery point, assuming that you wanted to use a Bridle setup as you described you would need one of these on each chassis rail to set up a central point. EvilTwin has posted some awesome details on how to do this in other threads in the Safety section. Recovery-Bridles-(Equalising-Straps)-and-understanding-Sling-Loads

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Originally Posted by megatexture

they are tie down points and arent realy designed to be used as recovery points personaly i would fork out the 95$ for the pair just to be safe you wouldnt want to use the tie down points in a serious boghole. the site says $95 for the pair also.

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Much Better Advice! ^^^^ What he said ^^^^

err same person...

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Originally Posted by megatexture

err same person...

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Crazy isn't it!!

:icon_driving:

Call me silly but how do the rated recovery points (as seen on the orignal link) fit to the vehicle? Straight forward bolt on jobbies or do you have to drill the chassis? Probably silly i know but hey i'm learning :p

P.S. Sorry :hijacked:

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Originally Posted by ozzymalone

Call me silly but how do the rated recovery points (as seen on the orignal link) fit to the vehicle? Straight forward bolt on jobbies or do you have to drill the chassis? Probably silly i know but hey i'm learning :p

P.S. Sorry :hijacked:

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I did wonder this too, because from memory someone had trouble and had to grind a section down or something before it would fit. They are manufactured for GUs and GQs so I think that's why there are multiple holes for bolts, but they would definitely bolt straight on or maybe the tie down points would need to be removed (if possible) or the tow hook removed, then bolt straight on, I don't think you'd need to drill into anything. Others will know more than me so I'll leave it to them for expert comments :)

i would think that anything bolted to the chassis is only as strong as the bolts used.