Cool, see if you can retro fit the new GQ one instead of the one you have then you have room for the second 24v AltQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
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Cool, see if you can retro fit the new GQ one instead of the one you have then you have room for the second 24v AltQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
For sure mate, have measured it all up off Rossco's old GQ one and should be a straight forward swap over, out with the Pajero, back in with a Nissan :-)
Thanks again Phil @PeeBee mate! Mrs MB reckons the courier delivered within 24 hours from Paypal transfer. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/150.jpgMuch more confident now it might be a ridgey didge hi-amp as the seller has hand written some advice on the box and again for good measure to not be missed on the receipt:-) http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/151.jpg
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Only thing I can see is they should have delivered to MY house! Looks good and when this warranty alternator expires in 2000klm I will be going this way.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
:-) It's ok mate, I'll be the 6.5NA to GQ4.2 alternator Guinea Pig for us :-)
It's a bit freezing and dark outside to check at the moment but do you know much mate about 'V' belt angles/pitch to match on these pulleys, callipers needed or just eyeball it? Guess in a worst case I could swap pulleys over without hopefully needing to adjust shaft holes maybe too :-( ? http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/154.jpg
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It is likely to be a 13A belt, meaning the outer width of the vee belt is 13mm. You can also get 11A belts, which will work but are not as strong and have less friction area on the side of the belt. I doubt it would be a B section as these are circa 16mm wide. The groove at the top of your A section belt pulley should be the same for the old and new. Ony reason to swap the pulley is it there is insufficient adjustment. The wrap angles will be very similar even if the pulley dia is different by a small amount.
That alternator looks new @MB where from and how much?
From Phil's link kindly above mate. New 170a GQ42 Ebay advertised/shared!
It does say 'sold' now but as Phil kindly mentioned above the bloke relists after singulars are sold within an hour or so it seems!
Quick update on the 6.5NA 'V-belt 13A' Mitsubishi Pajero alternator swap over to the 170a Nissan GQTD42 kindly Ebay found by @PeeBee ! A special thanks to @matfew and his after hours elecy skills and time too! Mounts all fit perfectly with only one thin washer needed below to align the pulley square. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/199.jpgThe fun began when we finally realised the new GQTD4.2 oil drain was now hitting the rocker cover. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/200.jpg Turned out to be that the vacuum pump castings and bolts are some say 10 degrees rotationally different. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/201.jpg Thanks to the kind help also of 'Scooter' at 'Pirtek-Wodonga' on our way through home we have customised a 45 degree M16/1.5T ('JIS -Japanese Hydraulic') new drain to clear the rocker cover finally. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/202.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/203.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/204.jpgThe next little challenge became the existing vacuum pump oil feed Banjo bolt would not fit the new M10/1.5T again ('JIS- Japanese Hydraulic') thread. 'Ultimate Fastners' next door kindly gave us a suitable bolt then the lathe and drill press at Pirtek went to work on more customisation. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/205.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/206.jpg Good news is that they do fit with a bit of tweaking and it's only now needing a descent charge wire and fuse to gain its full potential.
Ooh, and a double special thanks to @matfew for kindly wiring up my revamped winch tonight whilst waiting too ;-) http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/207.jpg
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[emoji12] no problem at all mate. Hopefully it helps. Wish isn't finished yet lol....
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Looks awesome Markie, can't wait to see this winch in action . .
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So you made up two of everything required for modification Mark, 'ol mate????
Was the original drain banjo a different thread?
The patero alt had some imperial threads and gq alt is metric. The vacuum fit straight on oil supply was the m10 and the drain was m16. Not sure on sizing of the pajero one.
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Very strange for a pajero (japanese) to be imperial. Unless the conversion company has done some customising.
Noticed the new alternator has 4 mount bolts as well, the mitsu only has 3 so you can swivel the pot orientation 120 deg without issue, but the 4th snookers you, plus the 10 deg thing is a bugger. Anyway, its done, charging ok?
Yep, as Matfew mentioned vac banjo up high fitted no probs, drain banjo on the Nissan was smaller and the new rotation unfortunately wouldn't of allowed it even it was same. The oil feed banjo as you say Matt was very strange for Jap to Jap so maybe was tapped before possibly? Both vac pumps were 3 bolt mounts Phil, it might be the vac case screws seen in the picture. It's running great so far and back up to 14.5/.6 on the multi and Matfew is kindly helping install the additional chunky charge wire with 150amp fuse next week ready for some winching. Matfew has a clamp meter thingo for amp testing so we'll load her up with everything that has a switch and see how it goes.
Alternator rated at 170a, winch will draw more than that, where is the 150a fuse going? Assuming its all running at 12V supply, no doubt less with 24V if you are considering this dual system?Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
It's going on the 'secondary' charge wire we are adding soon Phil. The existing wire is staying in place also. 'Bursons' only had the 150a fuse in stock and the next size up to order was 175a so went the safest option for now. I just wanna get up in the mountains ASAP, can't wait any longer :-)
Finished the PTO Hydraulic Pump installation, finally, but have a weeping fitting and its in a nightmare location, so trying to convince myself I need some more pain to fix it. Line speed is variable depending on engine speed. With the engine ticking over at 500rpm, I get about 1.5m/min, and at the other end at 1400rpm I am seeing around 6m/min, on low speed (approx 4 times this on high speed but capacity is down to around 4000lbs, so more for line retrieval on high)which is similar to the 15000lb warn electric on the rear. Pressure set at 2500psi, but will assess if this is adequate or not. Pump is rated to 3000psi and winch motor 4000psi. Runs quiet as a mouse and smooth. System holds about 2.5L, and I am looking to increase that over time with a second reservoir, bit hard to find an adequate spot of it at the moment. One final boot to install in the cabin that will seal the floor off.
Next job, relocate the ARB difflock compressor and install the Endless Air Pump.
Leak fixed, 2 hrs to nip a nut up a tiny amount, so frustrating. Anyway, all good and ready to use without losing a truckload of fluid.
Quick recent trip footage up the mountains. Love my 6.5NA for its awesome compression downhill and even better crank inertia uphill :-) https://youtu.be/vk1rVg6tbv4 Found some quick humility soon after that my 150psi chassis air tank and lockers are poorly plumbed and flooding solenoids with moisture/icing up totally/scary disabled:-( https://youtu.be/TKNqMLD5qOM Good news to share for the recently installed 170amp GQTD alternator though! Powered the newly revamped Warn HM Iskra/Mahle motor without a sweat, just kept hauling up that slippery ledge with lockers gone, my saviour :-) https://youtu.be/AfAEzIx_0f0
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Added a 2.5L oil reservoir to the hydraulic system today, all straight forward, just more time on the ground doing it. Now for the original hyd pump removal and installation of endless air compressor - when does it end???
ROFL... it never ends... you know that :-)
Just wormed my way out from underneath mine after shuffling around with a rag spanner and inspection light checking everything is as it should be.
Not a lot of room with the extra size of the 4L85 tranny in there and the transfer case having had to be moved back so pays to keep an eye no lines/hoses/looms etc have moved or are rubbing.
Had to replace a couple of cable ties here and there but otherwise all tickety boo.
I run my endless air of the A/C drive pulley.
The pulley is wide enough to allow for the Serpy belt and a narrow second belt for the Air.
Thanks for the heads up. I have two choices, either take the original hyd pump out and use the additional 'A' section drive pulley off the PS pump I have configured, or move the ARB diff Lock compressor to where the Hyd pump is, then slot the endless air under the second alternator and use a belt drive off the alternator. Either one is HOURS OF FUN for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
I know what you mean about opportunity for rubbing as everything on this installation is so close fitting. The exhaust is really rigid, and runs really close to some metal tubes on the chassis, maybe 2mm clearance, so these will be watched for sure. I don't know how this will last over time with such little give in it, especially with body/chassis movement and corrugations - just have to wait and see.
Mark, I am not happy with the warranty Mitsu alternator, seems to be voltage limited to circa 13.8V or thereabouts - totally over this. Can you recall exactly the parts you bought to do the minor mods or is the description about as close as you can remember? As always i am looking fora reason to pour more money down the throat of this beast!Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Hey Phil mate, it's parked up in the shed at the moment whilst I get stuck into my air line issues. You're welcome to come and grab the alternator with custom fittings if you want to take with you to Pirtek out your way for matching.
Thanks mark, will get the unit fist. Just heading out with my wife to go TV stand furniture shopping - absolutely thrilled beyond belief.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Edging ever closer to doing a 6.5 conversion.
Will probably make a call within a week or 2.
If this goes ahead, you all know what this means right?
cheers
which motor/drivetrain have you decided to go with Ralph? Are you doing the installation yourself or someone else?
Phil it would be best to get the new alternator then the pipe sizes and go to pirtek (or similar) with a list. What we done with marks was a back and forth till we found right fitting. The only issue was the oil drain which was a custom made jobby by the local pirtek in wodonga but it is something that could be made at home if your handy with a Oxy or something.
I'd be happy to help you with it but I am a little bit away from you for a quick sunday arvo help lol. I'm out near gisborne.
Thanks Mat, currently in Stanhope during the week. No flat out hurry as it still gets enough charge to keep things going. I need to do a quick check to ensure there is nothing wrong with the battery also, but the alternator was charging at circa 14.2- 14.3 when first put in, now 13.8 seems the limit.Quote:
Originally Posted by matfew
Will be the P400 with the uprated injector pump : DB2833-6284, and 6L90 as the transmission.
Just spoke to the VASS engineer, and it is all good for emissions compliance, much to my surprise.
The conversion will be done by "my guy", not Brunswick Diesel.
Excellent, look forward to hearing how the journey progresses!Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
SWIMBO says, go and do it.....
to all you 6.5 owners out there, is 1800rpm at 100kph ok? or should the rpm be lower or higher?
Shit hot Ralph mate, can't wait to see you blokes work your magic on this :-) Reckon you might be the first P400 Patrol beast in the country with a super custom sump as discussed at AB's donk party mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
For others benefit here, the P400 was the bulletproofed 6.5 having an entire additional cast girdle between the block and sump strengthening the hell out of em but obviously making them quite a deep donk potentially hitting diffs at full travel @PeeBee GQ :-(
Hey Ralph, according to the US military manual a stock rocket 6.5 achieves maximum torque @ 2,000rpm. I believe I have heard and read that around 1,800rpm or slightly lower is their most efficient highway speed. Mine being a 6.5NA manual and originally 3.9 diffs on 33's found that below 2,000rpm would suffer on 100kmph highway hills. I believe you're looking at a centre mount turbo and auto so would imagine you'll blast over the big hills.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
FWIW, now running 35's through 4.3 diffs and still the manual box finds around 2,250rpm ish for me at 100kmph. If I bring it up to 2,500rpm @110kmph I loose 50km per 80L tank. Great for the mountain roads and tracks though:-)