4" is doable and if applicable then do it. The least amount of back pressure after a turbo the better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
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4" is doable and if applicable then do it. The least amount of back pressure after a turbo the better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
True... esp with the free running turbosQuote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
There is a bloke, who lives fairly close to me, that has a GQ ute, with a 6.5l Chev, running twin turbos and a 4in exhaust. Sounds absolutely insane! Am I right in thinking that the GQ's had more room under the bonnet? I seem to remember a shite load of room in my old 4.2l GQ, but as FNQGU says, I have bugger all room under the bonnet of my GU, and so don't think a 4in would fit.
Has anyone put a P400 into a patrol?
Just wondering if the revised oilpan fits.
Also, I have not seen a rear turbo setup as well, is this due to the dashpanel clearance?
If there is anyone in the Melbourne area with a 6.5, I'd like to have a look at the install, I'm in Ferntree Gully
cheers
If you speak to Graham at Gryphon Engineering in Cairns he'd know. As a matter of interest, he is putting twin turbo's on his own 6.5 Chev at the moment. He has a beaut 80 Series in black. Twin exhaust and twin stainless snorkels too. Amusingly he has had to rip out the Toyota diffs and put in Nissan diffs and axles. The truck isn't yet on the road as work keeps slowing things up, but it will be interesting to see how it goes when he is done.
I am still having overheating issues with my Chev cooling system, and now it is getting frustrating as I just thought that I had it sorted.
At the end of the day, I am starting to think that I have too much shit in front of the aircon condenser and the radiator, and that this particular design of radiator is not able to cope.
For the last few months I have been running a solid spacer from the engine to the radiator fan, and this has worked well, keeping running temps down in the low to mid 80's. Yesterday I finally swapped back to a brand new viscous hub, and straight away the temps soared back to the 100 degree mark, on a reasonably cool day (26 C) in an unloaded vehicle. WTF?
In short, I don't want to run a solid fan spacer-block as the solution. And it makes the obvious conclusion that the viscous hub doesn't draw as much air through the radiator as the solid block. In my mind, this means that the radiator, is not up to the job. I have had it (only done 30k) and the block flushed (with a LOT of shit being removed) and the coolant all replaced and yet it made no difference.
I also removed my Hella spotlights from in front of the grill, and have made sure that all the shrouds are in place. Thermostats are good, and I am not sure what else I can try other than replacing the radiator for something with a core that is better at cooling with a lower air flow?
In front of my radiator I have the standard Nissan aircon condenser, plus a transmission cooler, oil cooler and the power steering cooler. Added up, this takes up a lot of real estate! Previously (before I changed over to an Auto transmission and added the tranny cooler), I had a thermo fan blowing air into the condenser. Everything else was the same, although at the time I still had overheating problems in really hot FNQ weather, which would result in the aircon cutting out. Now that I have the Engine Watchdog on it, I can clearly see the temps and don't let it get this high. I have noted that the aircon will add up between 5 and 7 degrees to the running temp of the engine too.
I have now consulted with an Air conditioning specialist and a radiator specialist and both don't like the restrictions in front of the radiator, but particularly the tranny cooler. The trouble is that both acknowledge that there isn't really a better place to put it.
There have also been comments made that the inlet and outlet to the radiator should preferably be on opposite sides as this enhances cooling efficiency of the radiator. Unfortunately this would mean some hose re-routing and mods to the thermostat housing.
What has now been proposed (if money was not an issue) is to replace the radiator core with a more efficient one, with inlet and outlet on opposite sides, plus include the transmission cooler into the new radiator, plus change the thermostats to a version with a lower opening temp (currently 86*). This isn't a cheap option however, and I am wary of spending this sort of coin.
Locally, Gryphon Engineering here in Cairns have told me that they have five other trucks currently booked in for overheating problem rectifications, and all have the same radiator. Of interest, none of the conversions done here by Gryphon have overheating issues, and he did eighteen of them last year, each with the more efficient radiator setup compared to the one done at Brunnies (where mine was done). At the moment, there is a beaut truck in there where a bloke is driving his handicapped son around Oz, that has only done 4k on the engine and it is has had the radiator pulled twice since being converted! Now, I am not pointing the finger at Brunnies, and their radiator is huge, but WTF! I don't get it.
Do you have a pic of the radiator or is there one on here somewhere on here?
Sorry, I don't have a pic of it out of the vehicle, but is three core, inlet and outlet on the drivers side with a baffle running horizontal for three quarters of the way across the mid-section (or so I am told). The baffle directs flow across the top half of the radiator and then down, and back to the outlet. I am told it is made at Brunswick Diesels, but not sure who makes the core itself.
I might be pulling it out on Monday at Pacific Radiators to re-examine the whole set up more closely, so will take some pics if we do.
Is the baffle like another tube or a smaller tank which then leads to the bottom half of the core?
Sorry Matt, I'll have to get an accurate description to answer that with confidence. Unless someone else knows the layout... I just know that the flow is directed across the top half, then drops down and runs back through the lower half to the outlet.