Hopefully the vid works.
I seriously don't know where to start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sADlzmrBM1c
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Hopefully the vid works.
I seriously don't know where to start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sADlzmrBM1c
Yep video works, that's about all I can offer sorry mate...
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So dash lights come on when you select reverse with key off? Sounds more like a short behind the dash. The reverse signal comes back through the dash so I'd start there. The aux light you have on the back did that have a accessory feed to it or was it a hard airways on feed
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Only when the aux light switch is switched to on, then I select reverse, the dash lights come on and the intercooler fan will come on. Aux light switch is off, all is good.
The aux light has its own power supply and on a separate relay mounted in the passenger side foot well.
The Intercooler fan's relay is mounted in the OEM relay box in the engine bay.
Attachment 84642
Attachment 84643
Along time ago I rewired this entire relay box to house other relays that were strewn all throughout the engine bay. To be honest I'm not sure how long this issue has been here, as one would rarely hit reverse and flick that switch while the car is off. If you get what I mean.
Im thinking its something in that relay box that I've wired incorrectly. But I don't really know. Just guessing. I'll check what I'm capable of doing...
I might even just hand the car over to a local auto elec, this might be beyond me.
Thanks.
This may seem silly but how big is the earth in question? If you have 100 amps going in, you must let it back out...
It would act like a dodgy earth but may be too small of an earth.
:icon_victory:
Found this on Youtube for the buzzing relay.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K94c6v69HBo
It may have been doing this since the new alternator about three years ago?? Haven't noticed it though.
So the buzzing relay issue is sorted. Kinda. I can confirm that its the newísh alternator doing this. Must have been doing it from the start and that I've never really noticed it. How did I know this. Unplugging the alternator and starting the car = no noise.
So back to the issue at hand. I want to go back to the start to check over the wiring connections there.
The way it was supposed to be setup is, the aux light comes on when I select reverse, but I can also remotely switch the aux light on via the Carling switch in the centre console. i just need to double check that what is there is right or wrong, before I start to look elsewhere. @MudRunnerTD Pretty sure, many moons ago you assisted with this, sometime, somewhere on this here forum...
Lecky gremlin sorted, finally got the Redarc ambient temp sensors in and working.
Patrol is fueled up and packed. Ready to launch at 4am tomorrow for a much awaited trip to Merimbula. The last two years were thwarted by fires and then border lockouts.
Can’t bloody wait!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2022/01/12.jpg
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So do I.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/142.jpg
Not looking good for today.
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Attachment 85151
Looking like a turd on a rock I decided to modify the carrier and make it 140mm longer.
So the fun begins.
Attachment 85152
After seeking advice from a mate who welds for a living I’m going to give it a crack. Even though he offered to do it for me. How silly am I?
Using 3mm thick steel I was advised to use my arc welder instead of my mig which is only 135amp. I maybe pushing the boundaries on strength with my mig. But he said to run a test weld and see how it fairs first.
I’ll get more done tomorrow night hopefully.
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G'Day Mark, hope U doing well mate.
Could also weld a strengthening length of 40mm equal x 3mm angle along RHS external bottom corner from swing hub to latch brkt.
Mark, as you have good access inside where you cut off the bearing holder, you could weld a length of flat bar in there then drill holes in both the insert piece and the original RHS and plug weld them with the MIG.
You could even do that on the 3 sides (maybe angle iron for 2 sides) where you have access for plug welding. If you then weld that insert piece in place and flapdisk it all it will look original and much cleaner than external angle iron added on.
Yeah ease of alignment and I like to stick it well. Bit of paint look sweet.
Due to arm length increase, guess you have realized that the latch and toggle pin plates will need to be re positioned or the latch hook (preferred) on the on the rear bar its self for latch engagement. Need to take the "moment force" into account (Force x Distance).
So things have stalled. Ugh. My ye’old Bakers drill press that was handed down to me from my dad over ten years ago that was working perfect now working. Well the motor is running but every time the drill got some grip the chuck would just stop. Never done this in its entire life, it’s worked flawlessly for me until now.
Upon closer inspection I find the front pulley it missing the nut that holds it onto the shaft.
It happen to start slipping now!!!
Attachment 85155
Where in the hell am I going to find a nut for this?
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Hmm, think I might just weld the pulley on and be done with it. Can't find parts anywhere for this thing.
So this is where I’m up to anyway. I found a piece of angle which is welded to the hub and plug welded (not finished that ). I then found another longer piece of angle which I’ll put opposite to this one and do the same. This is when the drill press start to slip.
Attachment 85156
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I’m FAR from an expert MARK Brother, ‘Duragal’ I believe from tiny iPhoney picture is going to give you a lot of grief 🥲[emoji120]
Call me, I aint no expert but 🥲🥲
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If i am nuffy correct thankyou…Mark….your Mig/Tig/Arc would experience horrible gasses from pre purchased/scored steel Brother [emoji120]
Of course any of us can conjoin any carbon with serious consideration of pre-after treatment suppliers have applied… steel on steel then treat if that makes, my apologies, been sniffing welding atop of pre purchased strip galvanised lengths for too long 🥲
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Fark, that made no sense apologies Mark Mate, please do put the hard yards in prepping your steel variants by way of taking them back to basics….coatings be gone for full carbon kinky bondages [emoji23]
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Mark, if you're going to put a 2nd piece of angle iron down inside that extension piece, it might be worth cutting a 5-6mm slot on other side so you can weld it to the hub as well.
Your front pulley looks like a taper with a left hand thread nut. Clean both tapers and give it a tap when it's back on and tighten the nut. Do you have the nut? If not it should be relatively easy to find one at a specialist bolt or tool store.
The only thing I got out of all that is that MB has been sniffing something. ?????????????
just clean up the shaft and pulley 680 locktite I did this years ago still going think its a left hand thread so mine has no nut still goes
Just give both surfaces a clean and a rub with scotchbrite or something like an 800 grit. Then clean. Then place the pull on and give it a couple taps with a rubber mallet. If you have an oversize deep socket plate it over the shaft and hit the pulley on using the socket as a 360d press. I'd be very surprised 8f you couldn't get that left hand thread Nut from an All tools or Sydney tools to be honest mate. Maybe not a shelf item but they'd be able to get it in for you. Go in and flip the lid on one of the floor stock drill presses on display. Evolution has not really arrived yet mate. They will likely be the same.