About to find out the state of milk shake in the diff http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...016/03/284.jpg
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About to find out the state of milk shake in the diff http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...016/03/284.jpg
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15 minutes in and the drain plug isn't playing nice ... Breaker bar bending , any more force and i'm worried I'll strip the square hole and then i'm really up shit creek.
Trying doing it up a little bit first hodge then undo.
Or with a bit of weight on it hit the head of the breaker bar as your trying to undo.
Thanks Matt, I tried all of that, bit of shock force. Tapping the breaker bar and a socket wrench while applying good force on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
As last resort ran over to Mudskis and borrowed his big bertha rattle gun and the plug still kept laughing at me... I think I've crossed the point now where it is border line butchered and a bit more force I reckon and it'll fully strip.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=65706&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=65707&stc=1
Maybe sacrifice a socket and weld it to the plug,
amazes me how some ppl do things up so tight
They have to be pretty bad before they will strip. The worst thing you could have done is use the rattle gun. With it as it stands give the plug a few good hits with a hammer. This should deform it a little and hopefully tighten the square up a little. I have broken breaker bars before stripping the square out so they can take quite a bit of force.
X 2 a few solid thumps will shock it and square up the,,,,,,, well square.
Do you have a big allen key that will fit you can belt the begeezus out of
Thanks again. Just given it a few more goes with all my might... I believe hernia is in order after that.
But she is now beyond fixable as it's pretty rounded and the breaker bar is a throw away / bent item. As i don't have a welder it's off to the workshop.
I'll just do the breathers while I'm under there and guess book her in at the mechanics.
First time i did mine they would not budge, bit of heat and my 110kg on the breaker bar and all good ....
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Well mission accomplished.
Huge thanks to Bloodyaussie for saving the day. Came around and attempted the cold chisel approach. She didn't budge. Then went around to his place and he welded a bolt on and eventually freed her up! Legend!
Well surprisingly the old oil was water-free and fairly clean. When I cut the old breather hose off, that was dry and no oil or water has been through there... Still don't know why the filler leaked. The old drain plug magnet has micro shavings but no chunks I could feel with finger...
Also installed the diff breathers while I was at it. As well as both new filler and drain plug thanks to Mudski.
I thought I had a H260 ? But she only dumped and swallowed 2.5-2.7L which points to a H233B ? Car was very level during the process so, don't know.
Glad it's over. Again, Big thanks to Jonothan again for the weld and help and Mudski for the plugs and the rattle gun. And thanks to the old plug for a hernia buldge and thanks to Tom Thumb for new muscles I grew during filling. Never doing that again.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=65710&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=65711&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=65712&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=65713&stc=1
No thread tape or sealant?
You only have a 233 by the looks. Im not aware of any coil sprung 4.2s coming with the larger rear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Some of those oil suggestions recommended 4.7L which was the H260, so I got enough oil for that but as it turns out it is the 233. That sorts that out.
I put a bit of thread tape on, as the oil wasn't anywhere near as dirty as I thought it'd be, I'll run this through for a week maybe and then dump it and put the fresh batch in.
Now to do the rest, front diff, gear box and transfer. Any recommendations for oil Matt ? This is off the castrol guide.
Gearbox: CASTROL MANUAL VMX-M 75W-85 Transfer Case CASTROL ATF DEX III Rear Diff/LSD CASTROL AXLE LIMITED SLIP 85W-140 Front Diff CASTROL AXLE EPX 80W-90
No specific brands but I highly recommend a gl-4 spec gear oil for the box. I use hi-tech oils 75-90 gl-4. I then just use that in both the transfer case and front diff.
H260 has 12 bolts holding the centre in and the H233 has 11 bolts. Easiest way to tell.
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Even easier than getting under is the compliance plate. Trans axle code is slightly different for a 260Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Or you can do that. But since he was under there. ..Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
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He isnt anymore :pQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Or just look at the photo I already have on the PC. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Which confirms the gear box and the 3.9 ratios, which out of factory is the 233. :thumbup:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=65721&stc=1
Bit late now but some weld a 6mm ring around the sump plug to protect
it from getting beat to death on rocks, just saying
Good idea. Mudski has one of them rings I'll get one welded on at some stage.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
The plug wasn't damaged as such as nothing under this car ever copped a hit. It was the salt water dipping, dunking the trailer what caused these dramas... Remember my tow bar tongue? Same thing. I'm only guessing the rest will be the same.
Next oil change , whats the condition inside the chassis??
Id be spraying a shite load of lanotec or fish oil ,
again so never seize might be the go, awesome product imo
Done that after I got the car as well as the whole bottom got resprayed in POR15. Will make it an annual thing to spray the inside of chassis as best as I can until lanotec is pouring out.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Ran the front extended diff breather earlier. Also went around the cracked the rest of the filler and drain plugs. All easy thankfully.
While under the bonnet found a little hidden surprise which I didn't know JPC fitted when car was tuned.
Then the garage creeper gave way on me and that was the end of that ...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=65734&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=65735&stc=1
Its cause you are a fat prick....lol
Bad! All of my 78kg pushed it's rating too far lol. In all honesty it was probably the strain i put on it yesterday butchering that drain plug....Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
Too bad you can't weld this back together for me . :tease:
I use to plastic weld the fairings on motorcycles all the time mate....
Yep haha. Can go full redneck and use a soldering ironQuote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
i have that exact Creeper, a few years ago i lent it to a mate for a job, when he gave it back to me it looked like that!! He said Sorry..... I bought a new one.... Don't know really? i think if id done that id have taken back a new one and kept the broken one? maybe thats just me?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Yep thats right...... oh i miss those late nights drinking shit bourbon while repairing motorcycle fairings ready for paint.... oh wait no it sucked and i hated it...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
I got a Supercheap ( I think) creeper about 10-12 ago. Has a steel frame with padded foam inserts, works a treat, strong as and cheap as chips.
This was a supercheap cheap one. I guess I'll have to go and grab a new one. .. Mind you I did put some unordinary forces on it no wonder it snapped .
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Those plastic supercheap ones are the devil. I have a metal frame one from there and its pretty ordinary. Cant say ill buy another supercrap one
Gonna rotate the tyres as it's time. Is this the general rotation to follow on a 4x4 ...
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When rotating my tyres using only 4 (spare is different brand and only good for spare) I swap rears to front and then front to rears , swapping sides (passenger to drivers) to promote even wear -- hope that makes sense!Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Makes sense mate. I got 5 identrical rims and tires. And every manual I check shows something different.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacho86
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=65755&stc=1
I just move mine around the car in a clockwise pattern. Do this every 5000km. I netted nearly 100k out of the last set doing this.
Not a bad idea might just do that. SO it ends up...Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
LR to LF
LF to RF
RF to RR
RR to Spare
SPare to LR .
My current rears are a tad more worn than fronts. I guess due to strong nissan lsd.
All rotated, I'll stick to Matt's rotation every 4-5k from now. Front hubs have severe corrosion, once again shows the car has been dipped in the ocean plenty... Went out and got the rest of the oils but will run out of time today. Next weekend, which will also be time to re-flush the rear diff.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=65764&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=65765&stc=1
Fixed it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Dont forget things like power steering and brake fluid :).