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2nd row seats were rocking a bit after fully rebuilt and I noticed it was the rubber pads fault. Took a Saturday arvo going in and out "anything rubber" stores and found this one to be promising (ended up finding a good rubber strip for the wheel flares and a good strong air hose to be used in place of the old vacuum hoses). The new pad is quite taller than the old one, but it completely took away the rocking.
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Finally got to make the front fender anchor link, that anchors the fender to the front panel. Before that, fenders would shake like crazy, specially when idling cold. I have used the corner lights to find the appropriate length of the link by holding the light in place and pulling the fender out until there was no gap between the parts. It is rock solid now.
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Door switches were pretty muddy and crunchy, with dried and cracked boots.
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Found new boots on AliExpress and decided to give it a crack.
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In place. To be honest, the front door ones came out perfect. The rear door ones are still very crunchy, one not working at all and the other with a high resistance, so it interferes with the light intensity. These rear ones (the brown ones) do not seem to be glued, I may try to get them open for better cleaning and getting rid of contact corrosion. I haven't checked yet, but they may be the same type for every Nissan car, so a replacement is not out of question.
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This is a common problem with rubber bands, you need to control itQuote:
Originally Posted by BrazilianY60
Where the switches all knackered? did you just buy the rubbers or plug and play switches? can you give me a link to the switches please. My GQ ones look fair ordinary.... not sure why? im known to be gentle on my gear!Quote:
Originally Posted by BrazilianY60
Second time post Daz. PAP have them, the front are different switches to the rear and the rubbers come with the switches, or at least they did when I bought mine.
In my case I just bought the rubber covers from choina. I bought them before actually doing any work to the switches assuming they would be ok.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Hi.
Anyone still has/run the 3rd row seat could help me with a doubt? Does the seat pin that goes into the pivot hinge has a rubber or plastic bushing?
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Also, does the pin goes into the hole (which is bigger, a bushing would be needed IMO) or does it go into the half moon/smile cut of the hinge. There is no internal pin running on this "smile cut" so I wonder if that is where the seat pin should travel.
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after more than a hour of reading your thread, i think i finished reading 5 pages of it all in once, tried to finish reading all of them but maybe later, i got tired just by reading all that man, how it could feel doing all that, you should have loved this job of restoring this beast,my 2008 TB45 needs some most of these works, i already spend some money, the biggest amount was on the LPG kit, since it's too expensive to use gasoline, that was first thing i did, i'm think about selling it or maybe fixing it, since i use it as a work car, and it paralyzes me at times, i need a very responsive car for work, a new one, but i love the Patrols and that's what i could sell at that time, biggest things it needs now are the paint job and the tires which are expensive, and then suspension, rust removing and exhaust system which is fixed wrong, not patrol parts and it's load, also the engine was fixed but kinda poorly, only the piston rings and bearings even, it has a rough sound in cold idles and loses oil even though i use 20w50 which is thickest for gasoline engines... after all that i'm in deep thinking weather to fix all that or sell it, buy a better Patrol who knows when since i need an economic work car now, but these posts are refreshing for me, idk if the Patrol will worth all that efforts and money since i will sell that one day anyways!