Deaths from towballs

Hi Guys, great to read all the good advice in this thread.

I just wanted to put this one out there for information and comment. This is a recovery point that fits in the Hayman Reece square hitch receiver. It's made with 50x50mm mild steel x 6mm wall thickness. The recovery hook is the standard type available from 4wd shops (buy from a reputable specialist), held in place with hi-tensile bolts. You'll see that each bolt has two nuts securing it; one inside the tube holding the hook in nice and tight, and a second nut outside the tube. A friend with engineering qualifications (RAN) described this as a double-shear configuration - each bolt would have to be sheared in two places for the attachment to fail (x two bolts). Similar configuration with the tube held in the square hitch receiver - the pin would have to shear on both sides for the fixture to fail. In practice I'd expect the chassis or the towbar itself to fail first.

I prefer this to the steel block and shackle fitting that is also designed for the square hitch receiver, as I've always worried about putting shock loadings on a shackle. I've been warned that shackles are rated for a static pull (or lift) rather than a shock loading. Happy to take advice on that one. Personally I'll always try for a gentle tug recovery first, and then use the winch rather than go for the "hero" approach. All those videos of snatching incidents are very sobering! Cheers!

Looks good mate. I have kinda lost a little faith in the hooks since my last trip out.

Check these pics bud!!!!

Attachment 23983

Attachment 23984

Snatch strap did not break! The end of the hook in the top pic punched a 10mm hole through the long range tank of the car in front!!

Was a Holy Sh1t moment!!




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Ooouch! I'm starting to think there's no ideal way to set up for a "snatch" or "kinetic" recovery!

Well when dealing with 2 cars that weigh more than 2 tonne then there is always going to be risk, its how it is managed that can make the difference.

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Originally Posted by ChrisN

Ooouch! I'm starting to think there's no ideal way to set up for a "snatch" or "kinetic" recovery!

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I agree with this comment. You can reduce the risk a hell of a lot but its always a dangerous procedure. 5 minutes on the shovel will usually save having to snatch.

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Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie

Well when dealing with 2 cars that weigh more than 2 tonne then there is always going to be risk, its how it is managed that can make the difference.

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I agree. Except you will probably find most Wagons are closer to 3ton than 2ton. Mine goes on the bridge at a pretty flat 3ton. I was in way too much mud at the time and my winch was dead.

A snatch would never have been my first choice in that situation. Using the calculations listed in "fundamentals or recovery" I was likely 300% of total weight at the time. A very bad day.

Giving it allot of thought over the last month I think there may be justification of replacing your hooks if they are used allot. Metal fatigue mus come into it? A Snatch steal strap has a useful life. Consider that.

Hooks are cheap. I will replacing all of mine.

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

I agree. Except you will probably find most Wagons are closer to 3ton than 2ton. Mine goes on the bridge at a pretty flat 3ton. I was in way too much mud at the time and my winch was dead.

A snatch would never have been my first choice in that situation. Using the calculations listed in "fundamentals or recovery" I was likely 300% of total weight at the time. A very bad day.

Giving it allot of thought over the last month I think there may be justification of replacing your hooks if they are used allot. Metal fatigue mus come into it? A Snatch steal strap has a useful life. Consider that.

Hooks are cheap. I will replacing all of mine.

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Yeah I know better to mate, I drive over the scales a lot.... 2 tonne what was a thinking...I wasn't even drinking????

Like all things recovery gear has a life span.
If you look at a harness (personal fall arrest) once the lanyard is used (you've fallen) it deemed useless and thrown away.. there is no way of how to tell how many fibres have broken or strained, and realistically would you trust a used lanyard and risk you live for the sake of $80-100 for a new one??
Same thing with a snatch strap. The line has to be drawn.
The issue is lack of education.. even an oil spill on the strap can affect it.
Each use our gear gets weaker. But the untrained eye will never know until its in 2 pieces, and pray no one gets hurt..

This whole issue goes a bit further than just the ball that's for sure..

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

How are recovery hooks made? Looking at the broken one above, I'm guessing it was cast rather than forged? (Are these the right terms?) The surface where it broke looks very crystalline. Would a forged hook be stronger and less brittle? How do we find out what we're looking at in the shop?

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Originally Posted by Westy's Accessories

Like all things recovery gear has a life span.
If you look at a harness (personal fall arrest) once the lanyard is used (you've fallen) it deemed useless and thrown away.. there is no way of how to tell how many fibres have broken or strained, and realistically would you trust a used lanyard and risk you live for the sake of $80-100 for a new one??
Same thing with a snatch strap. The line has to be drawn.
The issue is lack of education.. even an oil spill on the strap can affect it.
Each use our gear gets weaker. But the untrained eye will never know until its in 2 pieces, and pray no one gets hurt..

This whole issue goes a bit further than just the ball that's for sure..

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

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Motorcycle helmets are the same. I spend around $1000 on my helmets. One drop, even just from the bike seat, and the helmet must be considered useless. But like they say; if you have a $10 head, buy a $10 helmet.