Mudski GU Build Thread

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Originally Posted by mudski

Yeah after speaking to a few mechanics that do a lot of TD’s including the chap who rebuilt the injectors a hi flow water pump isn’t ideal, pushing the water too fast through the radiator before it’s had time to cool is not the best scenario. So we’ll try a stockie.
I know doing one thing at a time is the best way but I bit over it and just want it done. So if everything I do from here works, great.


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Hey Mark,

I dont subscribe to that theory at all. I think it is pretty average Spin actually from Facebook gooses. Unfortunately if it is said enough, Myth can become belief. It is a shame a trained Mechanic cant distinguish the difference though.

It boggles belief that a Trained Mechanic suggests that a HiFlow Water Pump will cause the water to travel too fast through the cooling element. Shoot that bloke! he is Brain Dead.

The Hi Flow water pump is designed to provide Pressure to the flow, the Pressure in the flow will ensure a strong delivery of cooled water when the Thermostat Opens........ The bloody Thermostat will determine how long the water takes to flow through the system and when it is cool enough. The idea is to ensure there is little to no cavitation and the water, when released by the thermostat, flows efficiently and quickly to where it is needed. When the Thermostat feels the temperature change it closes and the Water pump cycles on.

To suggest that the Hiflow pump wont let the water sit in the radiator long enough defies basic physics. When the Door is closed (Thermostat)the cyclone stays Outside and the air inside your house remains calm... you open your front door and your back door and you will get knocked over, Close the bloody door and it is over.

Your Hiflow pump looks like the JPC Pump and i run this pump. there is a guy on FB that makes his own design and his testing suggests his is slightly better but IMO the Jury is out on that. This is a good unit and you should fit it with confidence.

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Hey Mark,

I dont subscribe to that theory at all. I think it is pretty average Spin actually from Facebook gooses. Unfortunately if it is said enough Myth can become belief. It is a shame a trained Mechanic cant distinguish the difference though.

It boggles belief that a Trained Mechanic suggests that a HiFlow Water Pump will cause the water to travel too fast through the cooling element. Shoot that bloke! he is Brain Dead.

The Hi Flow water pump is designed to provide Pressure to the flow, the Pressure in the flow will ensure a strong delivery of cooled water when the Thermostat Opens........ The bloody Thermostat will determine how long the water takes to flow through the system and when it is cool enough. The idea is to ensure there is little to no cavitation and the water, when released by the thermostat, flows efficiently and quickly to where it is needed. When the Thermostat feels the temperature change it closes and the Water pump cycles on.

Your Hiflow pump looks like the JPC Pump and i run this pump. there is a guy on FB that makes his own design and his testing suggests his is slightly better but IMO the Jury is out on that. This is a good unit and you should fit it with confidence.

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I hear what your saying Darren loud and clear mate. I don't really read much on the FB pages, most comments are to just send it bro, and from half wit kids. Theres so many "theories" floating around, and I've just about finished with trying them all. So time will tell. Yes I have the JPC pump, so if I see changes for the better in what I have done, I will leave it alone. If not. Well, I'll think about that if and when I get to it.

Pretty!
Attachment 82241


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Fan fits on pretty snug. About 30mm bigger in diameter than the G35 fan too. Quikazz have done a pretty good job of it. Keen to see the results.
Attachment 82242

Gonna attempt to remove the plug in the block tomorrow and give the block a good flush. Maybe the plug for the oil temp switch in the block too. We’ll see about that one.

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Mark, have you thought of increasing depth of fan cowl, most likely pull more air. looking good

Not that it's worth anything, but here's my 2 cents.

My 4wd before I got the trol was a 2.4 TD Toyota surf. Go on have a laugh.

These little engines are known for overheating, but the overall size makes these things nibble in the bush.

I went through all the same shit, radiator, clutch fan, block flushed, gauges, at one stage replaced the head as it cracked. That was a $1385 job with me doing the labour. Was still have issues and about 6 months later had it booked in for a dyno. Came back with leaking combustion gases into the cooling system. A small hole or crack in the block. So I ended up with a reco short block. Not long are that I moved it on.

It got to a point where I was driving with one eye on the road and the other on the temp gauge always. Couldn't tow anything, everytime it was under load the temp would climb.

The last straw was driving through the Otways in the middle of winter it was probably 10 degrees outside and drizzling and I had to stop 3/4 the way up a hill because I was overheating.

What I should've done from the start was drop a 1uz v8, 6 bolt mains and quad cams good for around 200kw.

That's why I've got the gas blower, the 3lt stories scared the crap out of me and the 4.2 were out of $$$ range.

I was done with diesels.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/10/86.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/10/87.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/10/88.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/10/89.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/10/90.jpg

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Originally Posted by Bidja

Mark, have you thought of increasing depth of fan cowl, most likely pull more air. looking good

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Yes have thought about that. But will wait to see how this new fan setup goes. Took it for a spin today. Looks promising. And I thought the G35 on a fully locked viscous hub was noisy. Gawd! I sound like a whistling hovercraft now.

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Originally Posted by mudski

Yes have thought about that. But will wait to see how this new fan setup goes. Took it for a spin today. Looks promising. And I thought the G35 on a fully locked viscous hub was noisy. Gawd! I sound like a whistling hovercraft now.

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Yep told you so mate! Hope it helps to bring your temps under control.

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Originally Posted by Bidja

Mark, have you thought of increasing depth of fan cowl, most likely pull more air. looking good

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The rule of thumb I was told was 2/3 of the fan blade inside the cowl and 1/3 outside the cowl. I don't understand this however as the ducting handbooks i have used for the past 40 odd years have the fan efficiency best with the blades totally enclosed inside the tube of the ducting. On that basis i extended the cowling on my fan cowl when the vehicle was vee belt drive and n/a, by simply buying a strip of 2mm x 50 flat bar and tec screwing it onto the existing in places to hold it then clamped the ends. To be honest, didn't make any noticeable difference, still ran hot at high revs low speed 4wd stuff, so on that basis I have not done the mod to the new setup as yet. Word of warning though, the fan blades do flatten out at speed and the swept diameter does increase a bit - on mine the fan grew 10mm on the diameter, and i know this because the ears of the plastic blade were chewed off by the small projection of the tec screw. I had 25mm clearance from staic fan blade to housing. The new setup is close than this, so if i do the cowl extension i will be mounting it differently.

Whatever you do from here on in Mr Mark Mate!
Be sure to not completely remove your fully open thermostat as it will create a super “Hi-Flow” affect hindering your radiator OEM designed/allowed cool down time within [emoji23]
Will guaranteed boil up hills under load and damagingly cool down hills due to too much radiator flow [emoji23][emoji23]


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Originally Posted by mudski

Yes have thought about that. But will wait to see how this new fan setup goes. Took it for a spin today. Looks promising. And I thought the G35 on a fully locked viscous hub was noisy. Gawd! I sound like a whistling hovercraft now.

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Good that you have observed some improvement Mark.

In line with what @PeeBee stated, checked my CRD fan blades_ would be lucky to covered 50% by the cowl skirt and radial tip clearance is nom 25mm (different eng mount and other flex characteristics but just reference info).

Guess U can only give a deeper cowl a go might even quiet it down a bit.

Mentioned it as in early 80's, I put a 4 cyl B series diesel in my FJ45 swb (two less cylinders than the original 2F petrol)_cowl extension made up using galvanized sheet/metal pop riveted in place, did not have a nutsert tool then.

So now, with the noise from the fan and the resonance from the CC cooler she must be buzzing with noise now mate.

I've got the same fan along with the thermostat he sells too. Generally hovers between 85 and 90 deg and you can hear the fan come in and out occasionally. Haven't towed with it yet though.

Nice fans Mark. A good mate of mine organized a set of them for me :)

Patrol’s out.
Attachment 82249

Roof racks in. Needs some serious loving.
Attachment 82250

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Sorry I meant nice belts lol.

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Originally Posted by Hodge

Sorry I meant nice belts lol.

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I thought that’s what you were talking about.


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Giving the old ally rack a second lease on life. Old love to replace it but I can’t justify the dollars on a new one.
Attachment 82251


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Solar pane back on and spade bracket.
Attachment 82254

Awnings will go back on later, and the light bar is fubar. Copped a hit from a stone or something. Might have to go visit Paul from LED Light Co for a new one at sometime.


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Side awning I found was falling apart. Three rivets had broken away from the back ally support.
Attachment 82255
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Drilled them out and right through the support and bolted it back together.




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The rear awning bag is a bit worse for wear. So I sprayed it with some water proofing spray in the hope it will help some how.
Attachment 82260


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Well that makes me feel better . I am not going mad

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Originally Posted by Tip12345

Well that makes me feel better . I am not going mad

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Eh?..........

someone else has the problem with there 4.2 gauge problems and something not working .

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Originally Posted by Tip12345

someone else has the problem with there 4.2 gauge problems and something not working .

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Yep, my gauge is faulty. :wink: I should have listened to the mechanic when he said to not bother with an aftermarket temp gauge, it will give you endless headaches from watching it too much. He was right...

So after all the cooling system work, Im not sure. I have a road near by, it has a long up hill run, not steep, but goes for maybe a K or so. At 60kph, 14c outside temps, the water temps hit 95c, without even pushing it. Then I go to Rossco's. Pass his place and go down into Yarra Glen. Turn around and wait for a break in the traffic and blasted back up the hills. 4Th gear, outside temps of about 18c, sitting around circa 90kph and the temps rose to 95c again. But slower than I was expecting. I think I will wait for a warm day and hook up the camper and give it a flogging. If the temps hit 95c and stay there (wishful thinking) I'll be happy. Otherwise next thing is to remove the injector pump and get it tested to make sure its doing what its supposed to do.


Other than that, its good to get out in the snotter for a run. Gotta love the whistle of the big GT Garret turbo's. Very distinctive sound. And I've finally fixed the water rail leak after three years and going back to the mechanic seven times. Gotta get something done and right? Do it yourself....

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Originally Posted by mudski

So after all the cooling system work, Im not sure. I have a road near by, it has a long up hill run, not steep, but goes for maybe a K or so. At 60kph, 14c outside temps, the water temps hit 95c, without even pushing it. Then I go to Rossco's. Pass his place and go down into Yarra Glen. Turn around and wait for a break in the traffic and blasted back up the hills. 4Th gear, outside temps of about 18c, sitting around circa 90kph and the temps rose to 95c again. But slower than I was expecting. I think I will wait for a warm day and hook up the camper and give it a flogging. If the temps hit 95c and stay there (wishful thinking) I'll be happy. Otherwise next thing is to remove the injector pump and get it tested to make sure its doing what its supposed to do.


Other than that, its good to get out in the snotter for a run. Gotta love the whistle of the big GT Garret turbo's. Very distinctive sound. And I've finally fixed the water rail leak after three years and going back to the mechanic seven times. Gotta get something done and right? Do it yourself....

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Did you pick up the cable crimper from @AB for your winch? Are you going to need it - I will be across that way soon and will pick it back up if not as can use it now.

Yeah bloody bugger such a nice rig otherwise. Just disconnect all guages and go for gold . . [emoji6]

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Mine seems to sit around the 95 under work and doesn't get any higher. Even the very limited beech work she got in tassie before I blocked the radiator out didn't go over 95

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

Did you pick up the cable crimper from @AB for your winch? Are you going to need it - I will be across that way soon and will pick it back up if not as can use it now.

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With lockdown mate no I haven't sorry. I do need to get onto this, but life is all of a sudden much busier now with our house reno's due to start very soon. I am madly rushing to get things sorted. I had a new head unit for the Patrol sitting on the passenger floor for the last month or two that I need to put in aswell.

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Originally Posted by matfew

Mine seems to sit around the 95 under work and doesn't get any higher. Even the very limited beech work she got in tassie before I blocked the radiator out didn't go over 95

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Im just hoping this fan setup will keep things cool enough though when it needs too. But I do think there is little difference to this setup to the reoiled OEM hub and Infinity fan now I have used both. Just getting the right amount of oil in the hub is the key to cooling goodness.

We'll see when the weather warms up.

well I am still trying to sort out mine . I have ordered a new radiator a brass one with copper fin tubes .
waiting for a kit to check the cooling water for Exhaust gas . so over this process .

So I reset the injectors, again to 145bar crack pressure. But. Now I have this electrical gremlin I can't seem to find. I have no glow plug light on the dash, also no power getting to the glow plugs. When it starts I have no tacho and I hear to what it seems like a relay tapping its head off..

I am ready to burn this thing to the ground...

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Originally Posted by mudski

So I reset the injectors, again to 145bar crack pressure. But. Now I have this electrical gremlin I can't seem to find. I have no glow plug light on the dash, also no power getting to the glow plugs. When it starts I have no tacho and I hear to what it seems like a relay tapping its head off..

I am ready to burn this thing to the ground...

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Mark, chattering relays are typically earth related I have found, far too many tines. What have you loosened or overlooked retightening perhaps. Also, I am wondering if these are all off a common fuse, being an engine management fuse, had this one also once - just throwing up some further check points - you may have already covered? Bloody annoying this stuff for sure

Phil I have checked all fuses to no avail. Cheers mate.
Swapped out relays also,..

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

So I reset the injectors, again to 145bar crack pressure. But. Now I have this electrical gremlin I can't seem to find. I have no glow plug light on the dash, also no power getting to the glow plugs. When it starts I have no tacho and I hear to what it seems like a relay tapping its head off..

I am ready to burn this thing to the ground...

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I feel for ya mate! Nothing worse than a vehicle which does not behave to expectations

I’ve got a lighter if that helps[emoji12]

Or buy a dmax[emoji123][emoji123]


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I fixed my troubles with my oyta by buying a patrol, you might have to buy a oyta to fix your troubles on your patrol.[emoji1787]

Seriously mate I know how frustrating it is, hope it works out for ya.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

So I reset the injectors, again to 145bar crack pressure. But. Now I have this electrical gremlin I can't seem to find. I have no glow plug light on the dash, also no power getting to the glow plugs. When it starts I have no tacho and I hear to what it seems like a relay tapping its head off..

I am ready to burn this thing to the ground...

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Have a look here Mark, @Yendor solved my issue.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ighlight=Relay

As electrically unskilled as I ams/are Mr Mark Mate, Phil might be onto something with earth issues somewhere?
Out of honest interest, when converting a 3.0L to 4.2L what is needed in regards the old loomy elecy stuff, is that all just totally disabled/disregarded somehows mate?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by MB

As electrically unskilled as I ams/are Mr Mark Mate, Phil might be onto something with earth issues somewhere?
Out of honest interest, when converting a 3.0L to 4.2L what is needed in regards the old loomy elecy stuff, is that all just totally disabled/disregarded somehows mate?


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Could be an earthing issue, just strange how one day its perfect, then the next its not. Hard to see how an earthing issue would just not, earth. But who knows, I will have a look today at this and a few other things.

As for the loom, I sent it of to an auto sparkie who converted my loom so it was just a plug and pray setup. I've had zero issue with this until now.

I going to retrace my steps. Thinking more about it. I think Phil is onto something.

It just doesn’t sit right. The relay with the chatter checks out good. So it must be something I’ve done prior. I hope.
Last things I did were instal a new head unit, but this was a plug and play instal, no wires had to be cut. I had the intercooler off as I replaced the injectors. And neatened a few things up in the engine bay. I’ll undo what I have done to see if there’s anything suspicious.


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Hmm I don’t think the new fan should be this dirty.
Attachment 82578


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