I personally have no idea Robo mate but it sounds tops! The Nissan 5.6 petrol beast and its tranny kept together would make one hell of a transplant though :-) !Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
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I personally have no idea Robo mate but it sounds tops! The Nissan 5.6 petrol beast and its tranny kept together would make one hell of a transplant though :-) !Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
RE5R05A is not the oem for the LS engine ( not that I know of any ways) it's a nissan gen oem tranny out of other nissan skyline & titan cars, but can be mated up to tb td ls engines via a kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
MB, I checked the specs on the thermostat i have from BD as a spare and its a 82degC unit. Sorry, this has been bugging me! And it matches the unit i got on ebay, which was an AC DELCO. BD stock tridon, part number TT2000-180 Hi FlowQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
G'day Phil, I'm by no means an expert on these donks sorry mate, just learning my way through them too to make mine hopefully bulletproof. Here is the page photo again from the US military full maintenance download that was posted years ago here.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/02/194.jpg
ACDelco do make several different TS ranges but the yank forums seemed to recommend the 131-103 88Ds which is what I received.
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Oil coolers turned up today. Can't complain about the service from the ebay mob being the only stockists in the country I could find. Ordered Friday delivered Monday! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/02/207.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/02/208.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/02/209.jpg Dropped them off to Mill for final fitting and collected whilst in Mansfield some ISO type small exhaust mounts. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/02/210.jpg'K&M Onsite Auto Electrics' in Mansfield are great blokes and stock a hell of a lot of gear contrary to their biz name, highly recommended !!
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I hope you have saved the pennies to hook these up - my hydraulic winch hoses cost me a kidney and an ear lobe - horrendously expensive those fittings and hoses.
Mastercard. Priceless :-)
Lucky we all have a good mate in the hose/fittings game! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/02/216.jpg
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Depends who you use. The likes of enzed, pirtek etc are very pricey. I have offered others here advice and assistance with this gear as its what I do. You be surprised how much the hose and ends are really worth.Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
I am struggling on what I hope is one last issue please Mat. The Serck coolers are British/Aussie BSB 1/2" to match my existing as WA bought setup. The 'Derale' oil thermostat/fluid control coming is yanky 1/2" NPT. At some stage on the lines from BSB to NPT threads I need to change forward/back threads twice if that makes sense? Question I guess is are there 1/2"BSB<>1/2"NPT unions in Aus or just have to get em turned up custom? Cheers in advance!
I will put this here as well. 1/2" npt and bspt are the same thread at 14tpi. This means they should be able to be used in each others threads.
Cheers Mat, thanks heaps again mate, truly appreciate your help with this. I found the link again that scared me initially to post before. https://www.valvesonline.com.au/references/threads/ It was the 55 versus 60 degree angle that spooked me. Picked up the yanky oil thermo from Burson's legends on the way home from work tonight. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/02/221.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/02/222.jpg Really does seem well made, just was worried about the cast aluminium threads being buggered up from my mechanical butchering hands:-)
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Yeah like I said one may be a little more snug but should still work for what you want. Just use some form of thread sealant wind in as far as you can by hand and just nip it up. They dont need to be super tight.
Cheers Mat!!
Hi Mark I have spoken to Scottie at BD and explained the temps I have experienced - he said BD are getting some "new" viscous fan hubs - apparently lock up better to provide more air flow. Waiting for further info. Will post. Regards Peter.
Hmm, I spoke to Greg on Wednesday and talking about my heating issues and he indicated that he was removing the viscous coupling from many vehicles as he had a machined adapter that brought the fan to the same position as the coupler would.Quote:
Originally Posted by peterc99
He did indicate that he was having a run of dud viscous couplers. Made no mention of any 'new' units.
Cheers
Rainsey
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Hey, back on the bonnet pressure regions over the bonnet band wagon.
I got my Manometer the other day. It does gauge and differential pressure measurements. I hooked a line to the top and the bottom of the intercooler and took some measurements, interesting results.
At 80Km/h I was getting a max differential pressure across the intercooler of 0.13 " of H20 which in my mind is a pooftenth of nothing. From my understanding this almost indicates that the pressure on top of the intercooler is near the same as that underneath that thus indicates that stuff all air flow would be going through my intercooler core.
So I remove the input to the manometer from under neath the intercooler and leave it at ambient. The highest pressure I was getting at the top of the intercooler alone was 0.58 " of H20 so this effectively heaps underneath I was getting 0.45" of H20 underneath.
So from these measurements, the top of the intercooler is either a low pressure region due to where it is on the bonnet, or the inside of the engine bay is relative high pressure.
More playing to come.
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Rainsey, I have to agree with you that your static pressure under the bonnet is your issue, so you need to find a way of venting it. If you compared the open area of the radiator to the open area of the bonnet scoop its simple to see which would provide the least resistance, assuming that the air is going thru the radiator. This is interesting stuff for sure. I have not seen the installation of the chev turbo under a GU bonnet, but would guess its pretty cramped. Can you induce some flow like a venturi device of sorts or simply hang a couple of 3=4" ducts that scoop air from the front of the vehicle and expell it out under the car - to encourage a draft of sorts - sounds crude but might be all thats needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
Ha yes, this was my thought. One thing I have not stated is that I have lifted the rear of the bonnet by about 10mm in naive hope that it would assist the flow from under the bonnet out through the back thus reducing no only the heat but also the intern pressure under the bonnet.Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
Re the space under the bonnet, I feel there is actually more space under the bonnet with the V8 than with the original ZD30.
Like I said, now I have this toy I will be boring you all for hours with what I find.
Stay tuned...
Rainsey
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That is an awesome gadget Rainsey, please do keep us posted mate! Not to get you spending more money but it would be cool to see 2x cheapo mechanical temp guages zip tied along each hose reading the temps at each different pressure locations you test maybe? Once you've tested the outer bonnet pressure zones it would also show ambient temp wind incoming on the day of graphing data I'm thinking? Like Mythbusters I guess with their first 'control test' before all others :-)
Got bored waiting for the Mrs to get ready for a wedding this arvo so knocked this up as part of my puter training that may be helpful Rainsey mate.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/03/32.jpg No doubt I've got some of the locations and others wrong so yell out if you want the Excel file and Ai GU files. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/03/33.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/03/34.jpg
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MB, That is awsome how can I get hold of these and I will start filling them out :)
Say, in regards to actually taking the measurements, I have had the orifice of the pressure intake at 90 degrees to the wind flow. Is this the correct way or should I face the orifice into the wind?
Kindest regards
Rainsey
I have an idea for the temp guage. I have an Autron ( now Redarc) Oil Pressure / Turbo Boost guage in the truck that has a digital temperature guage in it as well. I use it for monitoring outside temperature. I moved the probe the other day when I was sorting out my heating issue by measuring the under bonnet temp with it. I might be able to extend the cable and bring it up next to the pressure guage hose ....Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
You have me thinking :)
Kindest regards
Rainsey
[QUOTE=rainsey;717385]Say, in regards to actually taking the measurements, I have had the orifice of the pressure intake at 90 degrees to the wind flow. Is this the correct way or should I face the orifice into the wind?
Kindest regards
Rainsey[/QUOTE
Rainsey, you have to be careful with the actual set-up, as the DP device you have is really designed for ductwork in a closed system. I used to do this sort of 'stuff' on a daily basis 30 yrs ago, and have probably forgotten more than i should have, so i dived into one of my 'old head book', being a Ventilation handbook from the US Aircon Society and looked up the orientations. i might be going to sound like I'm telling you how to suck eggs but i don't have that agenda, nor do i know your background, so here goes.
1) there are 3 components of Pressure , TP-total pressure, SP - Static Pressure and VP - velocity pressure.
The static pressure is typically measured at the circumferential surface of a duct, at 90 deg to the airflow
The VP is measured with the device pointing directly into the flow/direction of the air stream. The TP is simply the summation of VP +SP. This can be on the inlet side or discharge side of the airflow generator - again this is basically non existent in our case, because we don't have a fan or pump shifting a volume of air down a duct - we have a vehicle pointed into the wind with airflow generating the flow but not as a fan would.
DP or differential pressure is more a measure of pressure drop across a resistance. In your case its the intercooler. Whats tricky is trying to equate 'flow' to pressure within a 'system' that is neither contained nor uniform - I am not sure I could draw a definitive conclusion to be honest. What you would perhaps be better doing is measuring VELOCITY, using a velometer. You can, from distant memory equate these pressure values to velocity however you need a closed system and need to know the temperature to convert the air to Standard CFM at 2o DegC. The temperature is easy enough, but the under bonnet zone could hardly be construed as a closed system from which the formulas would apply - so this won't work using the instrument you have.
Ok, so i have pissed all over your parade, and where to from here. i think its velocity, not pressure you want to profile. If you record velocity profiles in the locations mark has outlined, which is probably going to qualify you fro a financial grant in PHD studies, you will know where the airflow is, and be able to generate an airflow profile, which by definition can be linked to heat extraction due to erosion and convection.
How do you do this? Unfortunately I use a simple propeller bladed device that measures in M/S or F/sec but it does not data log. i am sure these are avail. but at a cost.
I hope this starts your thinking juices flowing, and happy to tear this apart to get to the end point we all want which is to understand the airflow into the bonnet area.
[QUOTE=PBBIZ2;717396]Hey, no problems pissing all over my parade as I am the first to admit that I have no friggin idea what the hell I am doing, but Im having fun doing it :) Most of the stuff you mentioned I have read in few documents I have got but to be truthful, I really dont know what I am reading.Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
I look at it this way, ill try something and post up the info, and more knowledgable people on the subject ( eg yourself) can critic it and in doing so, we eventually get an understanding as to what we should be seeing or doing. If I sit on my butt and do nothing, other than wasting forum space, no one learns anything, including myself.
The flow vs pressure conundrum has been playing on my mind since I thought I would tackle this. My background is in electrical engineering so hydraulics is to me more of a voodoo out there concept. Regardless, pondering all this is taking my mind off how much I am spending on the truck :)
Kindest regards
Rainsey
[QUOTE=PBBIZ2;717396]Hey,Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
I just had another thought. I dont give a rats what the actual pressure is. Im not measuring something with a view to setting a defined value. What I am after is the delta. The lowest value becomes the reference and all other measurements are taken off it.
I fully understand that a manometer is really meant for the duct work in a closed system, I used to use a Magnahealic in servicing dive regulators many moons back, its the same thing. if I was to create a defined input device, such as a length of tube and the manometer input goes into this, and this same device is then moved around the various parts of the vehicle, would I not be actually be measuring in a quasi closed system? This is no good for under the bonnet perse' but I am thinking more on the on bonnet pressure measurements?
Kindest regards
Rainsey
LOL, I love it. OK, keep the thought process rolling. What we have here simply does not fit into any boxes cleanly. I will have a think about your other post and see if I can value add or at least generate a direction to move forward.
[QUOTE=rainsey;717404]OK, to generate DP you need flow and resistance. If you generate so much resistance in your hose, leading into the DP gauge and out of it, believe me we are moving into really sensitive stuff. I think what you will find is the pressure will ultimately be the same on both ends of the tube unless one end is clearly 'in the zone and the other is clearly out of it', without any external effect, such as turbulence and 'back pressure/negative pressure. I will chuck this around with some 'old heads' I know next week and see if what we are chasing is measurable. Right now I am unsure. I use magnohelics on dust collectors and baghouses. One side of the hose in in clean air/atmospheric and th other on the other side of the 'dirty filter membrane', hence DP is a simple representation, however the principal difference is that you generally have a mechanical device - a fan - pulling air thru the element. The pressure is usually positive on the dirty side and negative on the clean side, thus generating the DP. We are talking mbar and thats a fraction of a quarter of a poofteenth. I am just as keen to 'get somewhere rational with this' as i am poised to start chopping vents into my bonnet to relieve heat and generate flow.Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
[QUOTE=PBBIZ2;717420]And thus you have hit another thing that has been knocking on my frontal lobe since looking at this. The length of the tube from the point of measurement to the device measuring it.Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
I would perceive that the shorter the better. Air is a compressible medium hence if the pipe or hose front of the point of measurement is too long, what stops the air in the tube being compressed resulting in the endpoint not actually having any concernable change in pressure.
So if I have a meter long length of hose going to the pressure monitor, what's to say that the actual pressure at the end of the hose matched what is at the point of measurement?
An who said philosophy was not one of my strong points :) All whilst I'm watching American Horror Story
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God, this is digging deep and on my third scotch and ice, its becoming difficult!!!
The air is only going to be compressed based on the flowrate down the tube and the resultant pressure - bearing in mind in this situation that pressure is simply system resistance as we don't have a positive compressive device like a fan or pump - itsd whatever air is flowing based on vehicle velocity into the end of the hose. Without a fan as such this is heading towards lab grade measurement device and well beyond what the mere mortal could afford.
If you had your DP device without a hose it will still detect the pressure difference, but may not indicate it unless the scale/sensitivity is correct, and unless the volume of air is significant you wont see the pressure build up in your compressible medium, so again, very small airflow is a problem. Its possible to detect very small pressure differences with a pitot tube, laid over on the side and measuring 'hundredths of an inch wg', but hard to steer down the road and not crash at the same time.
If this was water or incompressible we would be laughing for sure.
What you could do is measure the DP across the intercooler coil. The question then is whether this DP can be related to cooling capacity. The variables from a mechanical sense would be it the flow rate high enough butthe PD across the coil too great to effectively strip the heat out of the air, or is the flowrate too low to allow the coil to operate effectively. I dont know the answer as these are really design related issues - so in essence you need to find out the flow rate required, at what temperature range, the efficiency curve matches the intercooler at. The DP then is the design element that relates to the efficiency of the heat transfer device - I think thats clear??? So if the DP is too high the cooling effect is lower, if the differential temperature between the cooling air and the 'to be cooled air' is too close the efficiency drops also.End of the day its heat energy being transferred by whatever method is in play.
My glass is empty, going for a re-fill.
You my man have given me inspiration. Nothing to do with Manometers but more the 12 year old Chivas I have on the shelf. Let me digest every thing we have discussed and I will see if I can catch up at least on the scotch front.Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
Have a great night and thankyou kindly for the insight. :)
Kindest regards
Rainsey
OK, I am going to bed, been at work since 4.30am today and a bit shagged. Will post tomorrow, and enjoy the Chivas - I am done for the night!!! Have a crack at 18TO Glenfiddich - bit drier than chivas , not a great deal different but you can drink a bottle and still be ok in the morning - well worth the cost!!!
I don't think they can be sent through here mate, might need to PM an email address and I'll shoot em to ya there, Cheers!Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
Doh,Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Why didn't I think of that.
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All sent Rainsey, have fun and thanks for all the effort. That info will help us all heaps mate, Cheers!!
Very very happy to report that the 4" snorkel and airbox/new custom route all done by Mill @Millweld has worked wonders! Do need to reinstall the second battery now on the chassis as previously planned. Too early to give exact figures and oil coolers aren't hooked up as yet but I can say powers up a minimum 10% would like to say 20% but that's probably too much excitement from its newfound grumble free flowing sound! I do know that water temps truly appear to be more stable, 88-92D max on the flat highway stuff back. I pushed it to roughly 102D on the last final test hill home which depending on ambient temps unloaded would reach between 104-114D tops after last radiator mods. The most intriguing thing has been fuel consumption does appear to be down significantly!! Stay tuned, like Rainsey, works flat out and we all need the coin to keep going:-) http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/03/82.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/03/83.jpg
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I don't believe it... I was in contact this week re a 4" snorkel for my truck and Millsy sent me photos of the snorkel on a GU. I state that I had a 6.5 hand he said that it was a 6.5 that he took the photo off.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
The photo I have is obviously your truck. I did not enquirer re the air box as I have the standard BD K&N unit. Let me know how you go with it,
Small world
Cheers Rainsey
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Pisser, I'm requesting royalties on pics then :-) All jokes aside and truly no spruiking for Mill here, I am am a very happy 6.5 'NA' camper :-) Phil and I currently posting here 'NA's' don't have turbos or inter coolers like you rich blokes so this mod is hands down the first needed in my newfound opinion only ;-)
Ha Ha, Love your work. Ive ordered mine albeit I have just gone with the plain stainless and I have bought a Donaldson Ram Head to go on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
I'm hanging out to get it before I send the truck down for a Tune and Dyno.
I was too tight arse for the powder coating.... did you go with it for looks or functionality. Must admit , it looks pretty good.
Kindest regards
Rainsey
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Looks great mark, glad to hear you can feel tangible improvement. Of course this is only going to add pressure on me to now upgrade from the Safari 3" to Millweld 4" - yeah, thanks for that!!!
Now, start filling up that under bonnet area with junk - it looks too bare!