Installing Pyro and Boost gauges in a GU

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Originally Posted by Leighw85

Ok picking up my needle valve this afternoon :)
I've seen your diagram on your site mate, is that what I need to do?

Which hoses from the ecu need connecting up to it, and what ones blocked of?

Also does the needle valve go on a certain way around?

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When you install the needle valve, you will also need the small tee piece that came with the Dawes valve. The easiest way is to just take all 3 hoses off the solenoid.

Pull off the long one that went from the turbo to the solenoid, remove the small green damper and fit the hose to the air filter resonator. Put the needle valve on the other end of that hose. The air filter resonator is the other end of the short hose that’s on the solenoid and it shouldn’t matter which way around the needle valve goes.

Then fit the small green damper to the hose that comes from the vacuum pump (the one that you repaired recently) and connect the other side of the damper to the vacuum side of the Dawes valve. Tee off that to the turbo actuator and also the other side of the needle valve and it’s done.

When it’s done, there should be no hoses left on the solenoid. Blocking the solenoid ports is optional. I do it just to stop any debris from getting into the solenoid, but it will all work ok without blocking the solenoid ports.

Ok just to clear things up before we go further lol The air filter resinator is near the Solenoid yes? and the VNT is the turbo?
because there is this picture i have come across.

patrol4x4.com/forum/members/geeyoutoo-46168/albums/dawes-setup-dual-solenoid/4025-original-single-dawes-schematic.jpg

Is this what i need to do exactly?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leighw85

Ok just to clear things up before we go further lol The air filter resinator is near the Solenoid yes? and the VNT is the turbo?
because there is this picture i have come across.

Is this what i need to do exactly?

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Yes, that is all correct.

But on the boost side of the dawes valve for me at the moment i have my Diesel/Gas hose and a hose from the Boost Inlet. Because my Boost gauge is not apart of my dawes valve hoses, its seperate
What should i do with them mate?
just want to get it right, so i best make sure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leighw85

But on the boost side of the dawes valve for me at the moment i have my Diesel/Gas hose and a hose from the Boost Inlet. Because my Boost gauge is not apart of my dawes valve hoses, its seperate
What should i do with them mate?
just want to get it right, so i best make sure.

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Leave them as they are. It doesn’t matter where you take the boost signal from for the gauge or the Dawes valve for that matter. Boost pressure should be almost the same through the whole inlet system after the turbo.

Ok sweet i think i have got it sorted :) ill do it tomorrow morning and let you know how i go.

in the pic the VNT is the turbo and the resonator fitting is just near the solanoid?

cheers mate, bloody appreciate it hey

Ok installed to the picture. Set the needle so the arm drops then lifted back up to the screw. Getting no boost now unless I have my foot flat and then OT will only get to 5psi :(

EDIT: ok so it did matter what wat around the needle valve went, wierd huh!

So now im getting my boost again, do i adjust my boost to the levels you recommend (e.g 2000 rpm @ 10psi) with the dawes or needle valve?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leighw85

Ok installed to the picture. Set the needle so the arm drops then lifted back up to the screw. Getting no boost now unless I have my foot flat and then OT will only get to 5psi :(

EDIT: ok so it did matter what wat around the needle valve went, wierd huh!

So now im getting my boost again, do i adjust my boost to the levels you recommend (e.g 2000 rpm @ 10psi) with the dawes or needle valve?

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You should adjust the needle valve as you have, at idle so the arm just touches the stop screw. That should put it very close to the mark. Then just adjust the Dawes valve to 15psi with about ½ throttle. Then drive it for a while and you should see the boost hover around 10psi at 2000rpm while cruising with a fairly light throttle. In your case it’s unlikely that you can drive much below those revs, but if you accelerate harder the boost should shoot up to 15psi and stay there until you back off. If it does that, it should be good.

Strange that your needle valve is directional. I thought only a check valve would be directional. Live and learn……………..

So once I have set the arm to just touch the screw, that means the spool rate has been sorted? So it dosnt run fast like it did when I do that test?

Well the max boost I can get out of my Dawes now is 15psi at any speed (have only gone for 1 drive) how it is set. I thought if I changed the Dawes valve it would make boost higher at 2000rpm?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leighw85

So once I have set the arm to just touch the screw, that means the spool rate has been sorted? So it dosnt run fast like it did when I do that test?

Well the max boost I can get out of my Dawes now is 15psi at any speed (have only gone for 1 drive) how it is set. I thought if I changed the Dawes valve it would make boost higher at 2000rpm?

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No, adjusting the Dawes will only determine how high boost can go. Adjusting the needle valve will determine how quickly (or early) it gets there.

So the spool rate is adjusted with the needle valve, but if opening the needle valve still results in a very fast spool rate or big boost spike, you then adjust the VNT actuator arm stop screw. Usually turning it down about ½ a turn does the trick, but that shouldn’t be necessary unless you have limp mode issues.