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Just a Harrop 2300 running the 16psi pulley. I would love the twin turbo feed like on the Banks test Motor, but frankly this engine isn't built for that kind of HP. The Banks engine runs twin turbo's into a s/c, and makes around 1200hp.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Finger gotta itchy today after 2 weeks in a nightmare project stage so bought a Marks 4x4 hydro booster to go over the Willwoods. Expect a significant braking upgrade moving forward. The barge is still quit heavy despite efforts to trim it down.
I will watch this development with curious anticipation!
Hi Pee BeeQuote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Have you thought about the aux electric pumps capacity to run the steering and the brakes?
I talked to Ultimate Power Steering, and they said you'd need 12l/m flow and the electric pumps generally provide 3ishl/m, as I looked at replacing the engine driven pump with an electric pump.
Are you referring to the Astra electric unit I carry as an emerg breakdown device? I am sure it will be fine. I cant see a need for 12L/min thru the power steering system anyway, but no doubt there are others with alternate viewpoints. The amount of liquid volume is actually captive within the system - bit confused by the question to be honest!Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Yes, I was referring to the Astra pump. It's not a viewpoint thing, just a flow in l/min thing. Wanting to know if the Astra unit will drive both at the same time. Do you know the specs of the Astra pump?. I'm looking at replacing the engine driven P/S pump with this. They seem readily available and cheap.
I don't know the specs but there must exist a listing somewhere. I selected it because its used by a lot of people building hotrods and looking to clean up the engine bay. I would assume it would be sufficient. When I looked at the Hydraboost I could not find a mention about system flowrate or capacity. Working on the assumption that the brakes and PS are closed loop, and the amount of fluid required to operate the actuator, I can't see an issue with the standard saginaw pump - I guess the question is the flowrate sufficient to operate or will the PS slowdown or the brakes fade?. If you find the specs on it and the electric I guess you have your answer. I would think if it works for the PS then the pissant amount for the brakes will be fine, again the system is closed loop once filled to the level and oil being incompressible would think it ok. Even 3L/min is a lot of fluid, and its not like its escaping from the loop - anyway thats my 'impression, maybe not the answer? I have not tried my system out, its rigged up with the hoses and its there to get me out of the bush if the saginaw fails, even slowly.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
If you look at the pressure reserve reservoir on the hydroboost unit it doesn't look like it would hold more than maybe 200 ml considering there's also a piston & spring in the cylinder and it should be good for a couple of brake applications if the pump fails. That suggests it doesn't need a lot for the brakes.
I saw it was suggested that you might feel the occasional hard spot in the steering when manoeuvring and braking at the same time but I've never felt it with my installation.
Finished the hydraulic oil cooler assy today, wired up the fan with external switch. Some would say it was satisfying, nah, another PIA job to get to the end point. Sorted out the air compressor setup and just need to do the final fitting sealing. Sorting out the power cable to the rear pod tomorrow, finally worked out how to run the 16mm cable from front to rear without snagging the exhaust manifold.
Interchiller modified assy with second pump is waiting for the new brass gear pump to arrive, checked the hoses today and they are not crimped, so its simply a piss poor pumping capability of the davies craig unit - another lesson repeated.
Should be ready to mount the canopy next week and free it from its home of 12 months in Yarra Glen, then commence the wiring to get it ready for operation. Getting closer by the mm every day.
Rounding back on this conversation, I have had mine on the road now and cannot detect any deficiency in either steering or brakes. The hydroboost over the willwoods is great, very firm and progressive and pulls up far better than anything to date i have had. The Astra remains as the energ backup system, however probably one of those things that will never get used - with luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
I'm still happy with mine, works well once the ECB pads have warmed up. I've also now fitted a VF Commodore UP28 electric vacuum pump for the factory diff lock so I can get rid of the vacuum pump on the alternator.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
John, the Willwood pads were a shitshow to begin with, needed to be bedded in and the first corner out of the garage the car 'slid forward with full brakes, frightening. Anyway, after they were 'conditioned they stopped ok, well better than the twin pot calipers. The hydroboost finishes it off for me , very similar to a passenger car performance, not a bit heavy truck. I purchased a Proflow vac pump to run as a spare before I went Hydroboost, cant find it, so bought another smaller vac pump as the spear, but I only have cruise control and clutch booster under vac, so can live with the chev vac pump going out.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
Getting closer, inch by inch. Ran the big wire down to the back today, sheathed it in 3/4" heater hose for mechanical protection, spent a good 2 hrs resolving a potential hot spot where Brunswick have shoe horned the chev into the engine bay, but close to the brake line. Sheathed the brake line in 1100 degC super insulation, then installed 4 layers of high temp fibregalss aluminised matting over that, and installed some spacer blocks under the interchiller lines to create an air gap where the EGT probe - also insulated in the 1100 degC sheath, passes under it.
The details take the time.
Piped up the hydraulic cooler yesterday and let the sealant 24hrs to cure, ran it up and no leaks. the cooler hold a full half volume of the tank which was a surprise, so next job is to top the hydraulic reservoir up, out with the tailshaft - nothing like great access on this build. Resealed the services box under the tray, all ready to pick the pod up from @MB on Wednesday and bring it home. (waiting for the wife to go out then transfer a layer of storage to her side of the garage so the new truck with canopy will fit, working on a whole new level of sneaky!)
Omce home there is maybe another 60hrs of electrical and final fit out to complete the pod. Heading back to the mine at the end of next week for two weeks, so program gets a break.
My factory cruise control, which I've now removed, has its own little vacuum pump in the unit on the firewall.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
The beast is home with the canopy on, thanks to @MB and his trusty shed and tractor. Boost pump developed a faultand essentially stopped the car, think I will be looking at a different make, the Aeroflow has done a good job - need to ensure its not electrical first, as the pressure was wavering on the fuel pressure gauge and then stopped boosting all together. It was given a rest for 5 minutes and has not missed a beat since - dont know yet.
Swapped out the Aeroflow Lift Pump to the carter Black today, was a journey of differences, but 4 hrs later all done with new mounting configuration. I have heard a lot of people saying the carter Black was a noisy pump, would disagree, its quieter than the Aeroflow, better vibration isolation , sits at 12PSIG at idle as the Aeroflow does, and does not drop under acceleration, so happy days, still have a spare Aeroflow if this dies out the back of nowhere. Couple of minor tidy up, still need to rsolve the interchiller circuit, I changed it on the advice of the supplier and it isn't performing - bit more thought required. Apart from that , looking great. Back to the mine to 2 weeks so in a good place I think.
Slider kit finally arrived after 6 weeks - they must have been busy. Looks a good kit, precision made, all notched, just need to weld then paint, happy days. Going to plate top and bottom using the left over tray checker plateAttachment 87999
2 hrs transferring 4l of hydraulic fluid into the hydraulic winch tank, holy shit that pumping is hard work under the car. reconfigured the interchiller pump circuit back to standard, still a few minor corrections and tidy up tomorrow. Starting on sliders after that.
I would expect a weld on kit to be just a bunch of loose parts, that seems like it even comes tacked into the correct positions. Awesome.
No just the packing, all loose, tacked them together today, took 20 mins, after spending 7 hrs fighting with the interchiller pump, that has now been 100% confirmed as dead - pumped at 40lpm with a forced inlet and shot water across the road maybe 6m, but hooked up with a hose system thru the heat exchangers and zero - reckon the seals on the impellar are shot - waiting to hear if a kit is avail - hope so, pump was close to $1000 at the time.Attachment 88002Quote:
Originally Posted by BrazilianY60
Looking Great Philstar [emoji106][emoji106]
Only my Nuffy opinion for weight saving Da Beaut Beast Brother [emoji123][emoji123]
There in theory could be another way instead of utilising full length leftover checker plate steel plates both top and bottom (totally understand your forward HC driving snagging smooth deflection log logic)
I believe/hope leaving your new sliders undersides open for cleaning/rust purposes could benefit from this wacky theory [emoji51]
Weld the beaut kit fully up, yes, weld atop leftover checker plate [emoji106][emoji106]
In theory, again, simply weld in short flat bars say 30mm wide x say 3mm thick x slider width underneath @ say 45 degree deflection bars/plates at every round RHS intersection:
https://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...024/04/181.jpg
Best MB AutoCad/Solidworks capabilities [emoji23][emoji3590]
EDIT: Apologies Philstar, meant CHS pipe [emoji22][emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Or both sides to account for when he is reversing.
Thanks Mark, yes that will work also, sealing it up has some issues if the welds crack or I dont do a good job on the checkerplate. I dont need the weight as you mention. Back at the computer again after 4 days off, so into the soup for now. Looking at some troubleshooting on the interchiller pump, might be voltage related - going to try with a very locat battery and with luck it starts pumping. Can you believe there is no after sales support by way of seals or pump kits for a $1000 pump - answer coming back is bin it and buy another one - its run maybe 30 hrs max. Appalling.
Another good optimisation, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrazilianY60
Sorted the Interchiller pump out today, conductor size and volt drop. Rigged up a 200a/hr lithium and short heavy cables, fired the pump up, guaranteed 40lpm by the flowmeter thru the system, happy days, just needs some more heavy duty wiring and relay to resolve completely - one more bee sting sorted. Happy happy days I can assure you.
Perfect Point BZ Brother [emoji3590][emoji3590]Quote:
Originally Posted by BrazilianY60
Different Cultures I’m assuming, uz Aussie’s only ever go forward, never backwards….unless we are suckered into LandCrab Tradie Ute Territory’s [emoji51][emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
LOL, gold mate!
Usually you only think of going backwards is when you are already stuck, LOL.
Interchiller wiring finally resolved, bigger cables, big relay, runs beautifully, see if it delivers, swapping out the water or glycol this arvo.
Looks like I am up for a new or remodelled interchiller tank. The location of the tank outlet was deliberately put at 1/3 off the bottom of the tank to reduce any drawdown of crap into the pump inlet. I am now finding the available head above the tank outlet is absolutely zero tolerance between 40lpm lpm flow and 12-18lpm fluctuating if the water level drop by as little as 15mm. I have been looking at flow meters and current draw and temperatures achieved and they are all over the place.
Anyway its not a massive issue in the scheme of things, either make a new tank or whip the existing out and add a lower outlet - just time once again.
So with the flow at 40lpm and the full divert of the water flow thru the interchiller(gas/water heat exchanger) I am getting a good heat reduction in the inlet air post the w2A unit in the inlet manifold. I am able to wash off up to 60 degC from the inlet air post compression, which is great. Makes a big difference in 40 degC days to cruising egt's. Still not great for low range crawling stuff , but the water spray bar on the radiator works very well to keep those blips in check with minimal water consumption.
Ghee mate! I reckon that bloke who made those for you was scared of the dark! There is a few extra noggins in there! I see Heavy...Is it Tube or Pipe? I smooth plated the underside so they slider over mud etc and the checker doesnt jag on any edges. Checka on top, smooth on the bottom.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
I just did the front and rear Diff oils and the Gearbox and Transfer case fluid changes on the GQ, the Diff Oil is ridiculously thick and bloody hard work. I bought one of these a couple of years ago and dont pull it out often but bloody Hell! Game Changer mate! It made very short work of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Attachment 88010
I had a small one and it was Horrible to use, i think mine is a 2lt one. Awesome. When you need it you need it.
Thanks for reminding me Darren, I have one of those also, bugger, would have been done in 15 minutes. Those tom thumb units are a bitch.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
The kits are optioned up like crazy, simply select which one you want, some are twice the complexity. Its all 4mm pipe and the only weakness V the strength is there are 3 mounts , so I have purchased another two chassis mounts to make the bugger immovable. Going to crank my new - well unused for 3 yrs Mig out of the garage and lace into it on the weekend. I was over at the shed today and there is plenty of checkerplate over there, will see if I go the plate both sides V @MB sneaky angle deflectorsQuote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Finally connected the electrical feed to the bank of lithium's in the pod, turned on the 10Kw inverter and plugged in the 240V 15amp lunchbox welder, ran it at 100amps for about 3 mins continuous and its a winner - I mean it should be but I have had failures in the past trying to do this as well!! Runs a beautiful steady state bead, no issue, very pleased. The volt drop from main battery feed to the rear is 0.25V so will see what it will take to reduce this, however with the BCDC chargers I am sure they will compensate via their charge algorithms I suspect.
I dont know what or who is screening these posts , but this is a post made TODAY and its been deleted or relegated to a non existent post today - WTF is the point of contributing if the filter deletes the post - starting to lose interest to be honest. If the traffic content does not meet the narrative, let me know and I will fade into obscurity and not make the effort.
Oi Phil, there’s heaps of weird siht happening at the moment. Don’t be taking anything to heart right now mate. For the last 2 weeks the forum has been glitchy and I’m having issues with seeing past posts. Something’s going on mate, and your input is brilliant. Just take a breath and hope the boss can sort it. I’m bloody hopping it’s not hacking.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Second that, Phil. "What's New" isn't always showing stuff as it should.Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
Keep posting mate, I am always keen to see the updates on your nice rig! It is a software thing from an automated software upgrade according to AB. He has reverted most of the things back to original software version, so stay here with us!
OK guys, I agree the platform has had some issues lately, all good, could not make sense of it after a full day in the Zoo with the primates.
Today I sorted out a coolant leak behind the S/C manifold, bloody utilux clips and such a range of clamps that do and don't tighten adequately. Ran the cables for the solar panels thru the pod wall, and mounted the Codan Voltage booster to give it a full 14V on transmit - makes a difference for sure.
Now, I am having some issues on the charging front.
The CTEK charger is hooked up to the Optima under the bonnet, currently boost charging at 14.7V into an AGM. I run the feed cable down the car to the pod where it goes into a Renogy 50amp DCDC charge controller. From here the power 'should' go to the bank of Lithiums - 400a/hr, but I am not seeing the float voltage rise at all. I have the cable running initially thru a 3 posn switch, so I can isolate everything in the pod, or switch to the Renogy or go straight into the Lithiums. I have a 300amp alternator, so thought I would run a big current when running the coffee m/c or induction tops or the welder. The Renogy does not appear to have a lithium selection mode, its maybe 5 yrs old. I do have a later one as a spare already mounted, maybe that does, but the only thing I can deduce is the charge voltage to the Lithiums is reduced to 14.5V and the AGM setting is at 14.7, so would think it still should be charging. I also have tried this charge check running to either of the Renogy or straight thru with no voltage rise - I am starting to think the 3 posn isolator is faulty - its an expensive Blueseas one, and should be fine. Any ideas? Unfortunately the only connection I cant get to easily is the terminal end of the charge cable going inside the 3 posn isolator - will check that tomorrow. I think its sounding like the isolator?
Only other thing I am thinking is I have the charge cable on one of the output cables - unsure what i would see in that scenario? Need to have another look tomorrow - would be a stupid mistake if that happened.