is this supposed to 131-103?
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is this supposed to 131-103?
$220 shipping!!! might walk over and pick one up!
No way :-( !! I did by memory get some sort of promo deal for new members over $100 bucks spend. Blokes in Bayswater I found locally never knew of the part but could supply me in 2 months at $100 AUD each ! Autobarn USA sent in about 3 weeks. Come to think of it, I think I rang them direct to discuss with their hotline. Used the word G'day a few times too :-)
Just found 2 on ebay, $21 US each and $22 shipping, so waiting to hear if they have 2 avail
Good work, I like that mate :-) What we've experienced with online shopping algorithms is that even the best purchased programs default to single item ++++ calculations. Pretty sure that's why I rang late night and said G'day so they could manually overide their system.
Bought one at that price, waiting on request for a second. There is another vendor with 8 units avail, but shipping is still circa $60 USD, which is too high. I might go the US post box route.
Hey mate sorry for the delay I sourced mine from here pre moulded and Aly pipe joiners will grap a photo later for you
http://www.siliconedirect.com.au/
Kimbo, how did you get them 'pre-moulded'? By that I am assuming they were moulded with the bends/changes or directions?
Have you had the 4" Millweld snorkle since new or changed from a plastic unit, say 3" - keen to understand if you had any performance difference.
An intersting site.
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article...art-1&A=113176
It's a bit rough but one of the comp cars from Wandin 4x4 show this morning pictured.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/02/173.jpg
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Good little article here for you guys with overheating issues before you chop your cars up
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article...art-1&A=113176
Its actually a good article, one of 3. I have just ordered a differential magnahelic of flea bay so when it rolls up and when I figure out how to use it I'll post some results. I felt a little embarrassed by driving around town with half a ball of wool sticky taped to my bonnet.
Stay tuned
Crap, had to replace my harmonic balancer as it had a groove in it where the oil seal sat, hence my oil leak I was posting about some time back.
So the old harmonic balancer is on the work bench, I rock the bench and what happens,,, the friggin HB slides off the bench and lands on my foot from a tad over half a metre ....
I think I now have 3 broken toes in my right foot.... my engine is trying to kill me .... Christ I'm in pain!!!
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Ouch, that would friggin hurt, take it easy Rainsey mate!
Quick update gents on oil cooling mods progress. Mill from Millweld is kindly putting the custom bar work and storing the beast until I can sort out getting the twin bullbar coolers to him. Turns out that all off the shelf coolers are not suitably sized and Fluid Dynamics need nearly $800 smackers a piece for custom tricky builds. Serck have just recently released a new model wacky size needed with inlet/outlet on the long end required so looking like going down this path:
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/271348588170?_mwBanner=1
Bursons Lilydale are kindly helping out bringing in the final hopeful piece of the puzzle and we should be good to go build again soon :-)
https://derale.com/products/fluid-co...unt-kit-detail
Will keep you posted as best I can hopefully will see my hot idle psi back near a healthy 10psi one day soon :-)
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Todd kindly put a link on here years ago to the US Military download that I'm slowly working my way through like a nuffy.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/02/181.jpg
Cold idle I've always experienced minimum 40psi and cold 2,000rpm up to near 60psi. Hot and flogging the old girl I've seen as low as 2.5psi hot scary idle. Hot water I think it's turning to :-(
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Sounds like the oil is the wrong grade, as pressure is 'only system resistance', so if its as thin as water then it isn't going to generate much back pressure I would surmise. Do you know what your oil temp is - bearing in mind this is a critical part of the equation. If its well above the specs above then I can see the benefit of cooling it like you are doing, but if its within spec, temp wise, could it be the oil? Sounds like you have a very accurate oil pressure gauge as well - what brand?
I bloody hope it's not the wrong grade oil, GTS owners truck I bought complete and told me never to change from this:
http://www.valvoline.com.au/explore-...sel-engine-oil
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Funny thats exactly what I am running - swapped over from Mobil. That oil must be stinking hot. I am just wondering if a 50 or 60 grade, like a semi synthetic or the like, 10W-60 for example might also help with hot temp viscosity. You maintain the low temp characteristics and increase the top end. Worth enquiring, but first thing any oil company will ask is, 'whats the temp range'. However if your super coolers do their job, then alls well. I guess one thing at a time is best practice. I am eagerly waiting the outcome!!!!! I know a couple of the guys in FNQ have upgraded their oil coolers to a second unit on the chassis rails, but speaking with BD their applications were heavy towing and constant high temps - maybe not the variables yours will see, which makes that pressure stabilising valve a good choice i reckon.
I have two more temperature sensors spare and capacity on the controller, and i am totally going to be monitoring oil temp as best i can based on what you are going thru.
Now I can relax thanks Phil, you know what I mean....Valvoline.....:-) Speaking of variables, we're both Southerners needing to run our trucks between winter snow and then 40+ summers hauling trailers. What intrigues me on another cooling/water aspect is that some companies are suggesting 82D water thermostats when the US military operating range is 88D ++ :-)
I don't know enough about what difference 6 degrees would make, suspect 2 tents of stuff all after the valve opens, and as long as the flow remains the same, would think the radiator should take care of the rest. I get about 12 - 15 deg C drop across the radiator, so the 6 deg C is accounted for.
On a recent trip towing 1T trailer up a long incline with ambient temps around 38deg my Redarc gauge with the sensor in the top radiator hose climbed to 120deg - red flashing and alarm sounding - slowed down to allow it cool, temps dropped back to 90deg after a few minutes. Checked coolant level in reservoir and radiator after cooling down at end of trip - all normal. May have to upgrade to Duramax viscous fan clutch.
Quick question , just getting fuel and next bowser was a brand new Holden Colorado with "Duramax" logo on the front guard , never knew they had the option , 500 newton meters he said , no trouble pulling the van and said it's the most powerful 4by he's ever driven .
Question is are they any good .
They have branded the new engines duramax. Duramaz normally means the engine has been made by isuzu. They are only a 2.8 four pot.
Has anyone come across the autobox conversion behind the td42 tb48 and ls1 using the gen Nissan gear box RE5R05A.
Its a 5 speed trip tonic.
I believe they are oem box in the titan behind a V8 in the U/States.
Std equipment in GT35 skyline, behind 3.5 V6.
I'm also guessing possibly in Elgrand with the same V6 as above skyline.
The Elgrand also came out 4x4 so very possible this is a easy conversion.
My question is this=== are they really any good, Ratios etc
Any good in a patrol behind the LS1 etc ??.
FYI---Wholesale autos are doing this box as an option.
Thanks MB and nissanewby, will double check the specs 2.8 ltr! Don't care much for small donks putting out big HP but then again the wife's 3ltr hand grenade 2002 GU is faster than my GQ .