Wtf.. you on the meds again TDQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
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Wtf.. you on the meds again TDQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Just a response to one of parksy's posts. He has obviously read from the start of the page without paying to much attention to the dates.Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
Wtf westy?....
Lol. Owell.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Still keen on seeing these engines
Gday all, apologies for the absence. Like Jonathan said before, I've been getting right into the machining world and making small engines. I'll make a thread showing what I've made.
Meanwhile the poor patrol has been neglected. Will need to give it some tlc when I've completed my latest project.
I know it is a while since your last post on this build thread but have you thought about using some sort of plastic paint to paint all the grey surfaces inside and getting the seats reupholstered in black to finish it off?
Also, if you don't mind, what adhesive did you use to glue the carpet to your roof and pillars?
Did you glue, or use the same glue,on your door cards?
Why did you screw the roof lining to the roof. You just laid the carpet on the sound matting didn't you? I mean that you didn't make a board or card to stick the lining to first and then screw that to the roof.
Have you made some sort of padding on the sides and the cross members on the roof or is that the lining just straight on?
From the picture it looks like it is bulkier than just going over the sound padding.
Sorry for all these questions.
I do like your build log though and it is quite inspiring.
It is also sort of sad that it finished.
It is like watching your favourite TV show. You know it has to end sometime but it is still sad when it does. 😂
Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk
Hi dirtydog, apologies for the late response. Been busy working metal into different shapes and came up with this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUQm...&feature=share
It's a v4 four stroke nitro engine that I made from scratch. Runs well and sounds awesome in person.
I've finished it and I'm back to giving the patrol some much needed love. Currently rebuilding a tb42e as mine is leaking coolant from the rear of the engine and it has 430000km and don't want to fix it again...
I used sikaflex to hold the carpet to the roof. I also used large sections of plywood and propped up against the carpet using timber. The sikaflex allowed me to move the carpet without it sticking and the plywood pressed against it left it nice and smooth.
The carpet on the pillars is glued on using yellow contact adhesive. The carpet is stretchy and easily moldable.
Looks and sounds awesome AndrewQuote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Patrol is temporarily off the road without an engine. Head gasket decided to leak from behind the number 6 cylinder. I didn't want to replace the head gasket again as the bottom end has so many kms so decided to purchase and rebuild another engine. Pulled it apart, cleaned and measured it all up. Crank came out immaculate so a light polish of the journals and still within spec for standard size bearings and rings.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...BA6A1FF9D1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...804576BA6F.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...AC3EBEEEC8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...300CA1056F.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...8D2826A172.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...F22E821296.jpg
Head is back together and installed with new bolts and a genuine head gasket. I spent a good hour doing the torque sequence and making sure the bolts had stabilised at each torque. Also wiped the block and heads clean about 10 times to make sure they were meticulously clean.
I've had the problematic water ports blocked off at the rear of the number 6 cylinder. I'm not concerned about this causing issues.
Rocker gear all cleaned up and installed. Will set the clearances tomorrow. Intake next, waiting on some gaskets for the oil cooler, then it's time to reinstall it into the patrol.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...D1AC2E389A.jpg
Didnt happen to do any balancing while it was apart?
I weighed the rods and pistons and found one slightly heavier than the rest. I brought the weight down slightly to get them all to about 5 grams within each other. Was going to get them all to within a gram of each other but found it a time consuming process.
Wow, I didnt think they'd be that different, maybe a gram or 2Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Imagine what 5g translates to with the inertia that is present in a reciprocating piston engine. Balancing of the parts and rotating assembly goes a long way to making the car drive nicer. It doesnt really net you any performance as such but is just much smoother in its operation. Balancing really isnt that costly of an exercise either and its surprising how many people who rebuild engines and dont do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
ben e boy, it would be a gram or two except one of the rods/piston combos was 5 grams lighter than the heaviest. Otherwise they would be a gram or two within each other.
Nissannewby, agreed. Just laziness on my behalf.
But with that said, it was worse before I started.
Woops. I misread that post...Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
For future reference if you want, it cost me about $550 to get mine balanced,
Engine is finished. I forgot to mention that I've lapped the valves and installed new valve springs. I filled the engine with oil and primed the oil system. Worked up a sweat but was happy to see oil coming out of the rockers. Installed the spark plugs and was surprised by a strange restriction that wasn't ever felt with the last engine when I turned it over. It has compression!!
It's currently sitting installed in the patrol with thanks to my wife. Tomorrow after I bolt everything else up, hopefully I can go for a start and run it in.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a run in procedure?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...16B74B214B.jpg
Do you have something in mind for run in?
I was going to run it for 30 mins initially at about 1-1.5k, drain the oil, refill, filter change and drive it for 1000km while varying revs, another oil change then after that its game on.
Just drive it mate.
Start it initially letting it run while you do a check for leaks or anything odd etc. Then shut down and re check fluids.
Then just drive it. You need varying load on it from the get go to bed the rings in as best as possible. Dont put excessive load on and dont sit at no load rpm for to long. Then do your oil and filter change at 500-1000km
A good run to fitzroy falls and back wont go astray......if you're still down that wayQuote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
That is an excellent idea!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
Cheers guys.
Maybe just up Cambewarra and back before the going the whole way. Incase an unforseeable issue arrises. You're still relatively close to home.Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Engine is installed and started first go. Mind you it ran very poorly, but when advancing the distributor it ran better until I realised I needed to advance the distributor an extra tooth on the drive gear. Did this and it ran perfectly. Oil pressure is good. Everything was promising until I saw coolant leaking from behind the block. It's not leaking from the head or any hoses. I fear it's leaking from a welsh plug on the rear of the block. This is a pain as I replaced all the welsh plugs, but did have slight troubles installing one of the rear ones. I feel defeated.
I'm not sure if I should chemiweld it or remove the transmission and replace the welsh plug again. What does everything else think?
Do not put chemi weld in a new motor.
I know its a pain but I would pull the motor back out. Its all fresh in your head so shouldnt be to much of a job. Annoying but you have come this far and always seem to do everything else to a high standard.
You are correct, And I've decided to pull the motor out and fix it properly. Doing things half arsed will only leave me feeling unsatisfied and worried whether it will last or not.
Engine out and leaking welsh plug found.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...EA121F7D7F.jpg
Welsh plugs replaced and engine reinstalled and running. Didn't take as long to get in this time. Started it up and no more leaks. I'm so glad I did it properly and not half arsed. It turned out both welsh plugs in the rear of the block were leaking. I also managed to score 4 brass welsh plugs for free from our local auto shop so this only cost me time.
Tomorrow I'll give it a proper drive.
Good to hear Parksy pain in the butt but worth knowing it's good now. Should run like a dream now. .
Cheers rossco. Took it for a spin and it does run like a dream. A lot smoother, engine temp runs cooler, oil pressure is higher despite running a lighter oil. Everything is good at this stage. Has that new engine feel though, so will need a good run in.
Have run the patrol for roughly 1000km give or take, including lots of maintain driving, so lots of low gear driving.
The other night I took it for a spin and ran it hard. The engine loved it and surprised me with what the tb42e can actually do. Despite giving it a boot full and mainly running in 3rd gear, I still somehow managed to achieve 14.5l per 100km.
I used gulf western oil to run the engine in because it was cheap. I used a 20/50w oil and it drained out like water. I don't recommend this oil at all. Back to HPR30.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...7EA4A34FB3.jpg
Hey, that's a great looking little engine. You have to be proud about how that turned out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Thanks for the reply to the questions. 👍
Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk
Well the cheap fuel pump I purchased how ever long ago decided it couldn't put out more than 30 psi, even when I blocked the return line with pliers. This was disappointing as I replaced it after creating this thread(it's documented somewhere in here).
Anyway I purchased a Walbro 255lph fuel pump to replace it with. I was pleasantly surprised to find it has a metal gerotor type pump as opposed to what I assume is just a plastic impeller in the cheap Chinese pump.
Anyway it's fitted and the start up stumble is gone and hopefully I've gained a few extra hp.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...A49C710262.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...E150FB02C7.jpg
This is the old pump where you can just see the impeller
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...FA029F6262.jpg
Years ago when I first bought this patrol I gave the flares a touch up with a rattle can. Anyway, years of sunlight and weather eventually got to these and they turned chalky and aweful. Have had a few hot weekends here so took advantage and re-sprayed them properly with the same paint I did the patrol in and also a polyurethane clear that is full of UV inhibitors. They came out great. I wished I clear coated the patrol with the same stuff, but never mind.
Also fitted some led head lights which I haven't tested properly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...A0FEEDEC28.jpg
Driving along the other day and the drivers seat collapsed behind me. Not the nicest experience and when I pulled it off and checked it out underneath, it was very obvious that it had collapsed before and was repaired. Cracks everywhere. Anyway, I treated the patrol to new aftermarket seats and it feels magical driving the thing now. More comfortable and I'm not sitting on a flattened rickety piece of garbage.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...9CC83E83D6.jpg
Nice mate.... brand, cost, fit original brackets?????
These are what I bought. They are autotecnica seats and utilise the original seat rails.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4WD-Adven...sAAOSwXeJYFnJT
You did the right thing fixing it properly, after looking so far of your work ethicsQuote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
I feel you would be disappointed if you took the short cut with Chemiweld.
Basically you now have peace of mind IMO, Still the best cleanest GQ in Aus I think anyway