....oh and no other engine mods....yet.
Printable View
....oh and no other engine mods....yet.
Well I did go with a 3" zorst and after almost 2 weeks of driving, I've had no over boost or dangersous EGT levels or anything. The 3" mod is definitely worth doing, I can here the Trol thanking me every time I drive it.
Just as an aside to the EGR blocking debate, I read somewhere sorry can't remember, that the soot and other crap reinserted into combustion chamber finds its way into engine oil. Right numerous posters here acknowledge oil is cleaner after blocking, however what I read was that modern engine oils bond with the soot etc and effectively scour the engine parts it comes in contact with supposedly keeping engine parts cleaner...may or may not be BS... and certainly I'd prefer to have the cleaner inlet tract blocking the EGR brings to the table...so horses for course I guess.
Cool thread easy to understand
Hi guys im new to patrols bought mine a week ago now 2003 patrol 3.0 diesel with catch can all guages fitted. Thermo fans all the stuff i have read and has a 3 inch exhaust. But no egr block should i do this. I know nothing about these vehicles but what i have read. And want to keep her going. Just a bit worried about limp mode as mentioned. Will i get this and no idea about playing with turbo boost. Love this site its helping me to learn.
Yep I'd me ensuring all the NADS mods are carried out mateQuote:
Originally Posted by 2003new2patrols
Hello,
Just wondering if blanking could be substituted by inserting a one-way valve in the pipe leading to the EGR actuator? Has anyone taken the actuator apart - is the diaphragm strong enough? I would be curious if the actuator fully closes the recycling port when under full boost and keep it that way.
Cheers,
Tamas
Putting a blanking plate is a 10 minute job. Id say retro fitting a one way valve might take a while longer. Just to achieve the same outcome.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamas
Is the EGR in the same place in the CRD (2008 DX)?
Why do we need to fit EGR blanking plates on the ZD30DDTI when the recirc system has a butterfly to begin with? Cant we just remove the vacuum from the solenoid to that?
Two totally separate things mate. The intake has two butterflies. One to assist in engine shut down and the other acts like a choke when the engine is cold or at low rpm. This one some people will remove the vac pipe to it so it stays open believing it there is better performance to be had but there isn’t really.Quote:
Originally Posted by quicksand500
These has nothing to do with the egr system.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Perhaps not really the butterfly i'm speaking of then- at least that's my understanding. Its part of the EGR system and appears to be post exhaust manifold in the pipe work routed around rear of cyl head prior to EGR cooler.Attachment 77316Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
No butterfly on the ZD EGR here in OZ as far as I am aware, or have seen. This is an EGR valve on a ZD30 direct injection, they also have inbuilt cooling in the valve itself. The Common rail ones are different again and use a water rail but are nothing like what you have pictured. I think, been a while since I have looked at a CRD EGR system. and both are controlled electronically, not via vacuum.Quote:
Originally Posted by quicksand500
Attachment 77317
I think I have some pics to help this out. This vehicle is number four hundred and something of the CRD delivered to aus per VIN in 2007 so maybe they had a few mixed legacy parts in the design?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
PICS ARE OF:
Electronic egt flow meter.
Water cooled pipe prior to meter
Solenoid that applies vacuum to the EGR valve solenoid
Dodgy attempt to see down at the diaphragm... behind head low down nearing gbox almost. Can't see if it's connected to exhaust down pipe??? Maybe not exhaust manifold??
Cheers
Sorry here are pics...Attachment 77319Attachment 77320Attachment 77321Attachment 77322Attachment 77318
That's a CRD zd30 and yes it does have a EGR valve .
Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
If you can catch the few messages earlier can you answer the question relating to the solenoid operation and butterfly?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Cheers.
That vacuum valve is not for the EGR system. in the CRD intake manifold they use the butterfly system, like the direct injection model use, but its one entire unit running the full length of the manifold. See first pic ref number 14517 is the vacuum controlled diaphragm.
Attachment 77323Attachment 77324
Sorry, I don't fully understand the zd30 egr system, to answer why you cant just keep the valve shut instead of inserting a blank.Quote:
Originally Posted by quicksand500
These are just blind guesses...
Maybe the ECU will see the valve shut and throw out a limp triggering error?
Maybe if you remove vacuum from it, the valve remains OPEN and not closed?
Personally, Id be solid blanking it with a plate. 5 minute job...
BUt now i am abit confused. Photos you posted to me "looks" like its a CRD motor.
However... As far as I'm aware the CRD has a electric egr valve NOT vacuum operated. I used to own 2009 CRD and the valve began failing after a while because I could hear the whirring of the valve motor after motor shut off.
There was someone on the forum here recently with a failed egr valve, which was electric.
See my pics above Eric. I the he's confusing the vacuum operated valve setup in the manifold with the EGR valve, which is mounted on towards the front of the intake manifold, the pic of the diaphragm he's posted is towards the rear, right where this manifold butterfly set up is mounted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
So my guess is that solenoid and EGR 'related' butterfly valve per photos is not directly part of the porting of exhaust gasses from the exhaust manifold to the intake or inline on that system. But it's there. and plumed into somthing. I'm guessing exhaust post turbo to aid in ensuring EGs are recirculated and forced to by the part closure of the exhaust system?
So its for closing the main exhaust for forcing EGR... Attachment 77325
what you are looking at here mate is not what is on your Patrol. The pics I uploaded above are. What you have highlight looks like an exhaust brake setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by quicksand500
Look at the two pics I put up. The top is the butterfly thingo I mentioned, showing the diaphragm, the second is the EGR system, From the pipe post exhaust, around the back of the motor to the EGR cooler, and then the EGR valve at the front.Quote:
Originally Posted by quicksand500
Yeah I understand the differences in the setups per your pics. Only that per my ACTUAL photo i posted of the diaphragm, this exhaust butterfly is part of my emissions system, that functions via the solenoid also in photo. I thought it was plumbed directly inline with the the porting of EX gasses in the EGR system and could be disabled in lieu of blanking plates. Turns out this is just as bad and forces gasses to be recirculated many times over while the main exhaust is cut.
Guessing i'll be placing EGR blanking plates as well as disabling or removing the exhaust butterly parts!
Up to you, but you will be wasting your time removing the exhaust butterfly parts on a CRD. Or A Di for the matter. Its a total intake removal job. And the benefits you may think you will gain by doing this, wont be so. Been there,done that...Quote:
Originally Posted by quicksand500
Blocking the EGR, as said, is a five minute job. If you've got time on your hands, go for it, might as well give the manifold a good clean out too while your there.
Yeah I just went out to grab some pics but can't see the damn thing, plus is well over 40C here so will try later.
I have the plates for both ends for blocking EGR off. Will do that first then. Keep hearing about inconsistent boost control thereafter and needing daws valve. And throwing engine codes to keep resetting?
The diaphragm I can see the vacuum lines going to is waaaaay down behind the block. Are you sure that will require the complete intake removed?Attachment 77326
Hi guys, I'm in need of some help. I'm trying to block off the EGR, but not sure where it is all located... yeah ok may seem a silly question to some... bit its driving me insane please help....
There's no silly questions just silly.. oh.. never mind. Head over and post an introduction. Then come back and read this thread from the start. If you've still got questions after that I'm sure some of these knowledgeable folk will help you out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel77
So ive gone through most of this thread. And i see majority use the plate to block the egr. So i did some searching around and i stumbled across this. Has anyone used this on a crd30 engine?? Ive got a 2010 dx patrol ute and i was wondering if it would be any good??
https://www.dieselsmart.shop/product...ull-egr-delete
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Yeah you could use it but I would just block the EGR and if the engine light does come on, which it doesn't always happen with the CRD's, then good. If it does, then get this kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stump2jz
So ive had a few spare moments to look at doing my egr block today before heading of to a job and ive notice a few things. Ive noticed some gasket crap and what looks to be a new gasket sticking out from the egr pipe on the intake side and a yellow pen mark on the vnt thingy on the side of the turbo. Im wondering, could my egr be already done and it has been adjusted to suit via the turbo? I still plan to pull it apart and see whats what but. Any thoughts?http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2019/10/2.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2019/10/3.jpg
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
@Stump2jz have not got my vehicle at the moment but that plate is most likely a gasket but can't say for certain unless removed. May have had a split EGR pipe running behind engine to exhaust manifold. Best to block EGR at both exhaust and inlet manifold.
The yellow mark on actuator rod is the witness/position mark for correct adjustment from factory of VNT actuator rod, eg: vacuum required to lift actuator rod so the lever (the bottom plate in pic), lifts to hit the grubscrew/stop which controls the turbo exhaust wheel vane operation. Do not change it unless you really know what you are doing.
Your compressor wheel housing (turbo inlet) appears to have a lot of oil smear, check the hose clamp and inlet elbow bolts. Get yourself a catch can in you do not have one.
Thanks for the feedback guys. Have a catch can fitted, just got to do the egr block now. Will probably do it at the manifold as i will be doing a 3 inch stainless exhaust asap.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Hi Timbo,
I am new to nissanpatrol.com.au, and am the owner of a 2003 GU 3 litre patrol.
I recently had the inlet manifold removed and cleaned as the old girl had lost heaps of power. This then prompted me to looking into blanking off or removing the erv.
Your post is so helpful, and I will be getting a plate made and fitting it myself.
Just one question - once plate is fitted at the inlet manifold end, is there any additional requirement for oil catch pot or computer re programming ?
I see Timbo's post of 2010 re blocking off the EGR.
Son has just brought at 2001 Nissan Patrol. Since 2010 has anybody done as Timbo post and were there any issues. For example after blocking off did any sensors play up or engine faults appear.
Thanks advance.