What say y’all for Grasshoppers Masters :-)
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What say y’all for Grasshoppers Masters :-)
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So sad......MB 3rd self back post :-)
Previous current ute setup was a decent ‘Safari’ snorkel to enormous Brunswick style 6.5 Donaldson paper canister. Bugs & Crud galore weekly. Best birthday I ever gave her was a Millweld visit for sure!
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Nah mate, the best Birthday will be the next one for sure!! Will be a Beast mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Cheers Daz for sure thanks again old mate[emoji106]!
Burson’s rung this arvo, T&E Leak Down Tester is on its way finally [emoji106][emoji106] Gotta love V8’s, a spare two cylinders when in need [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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Just completed dinner phase, lost the thread drift. Must say recon 4" snorkel with fwd(ram hd) or rear facing would provide for minimal difference in eng performance (TD or CRD), but am certain the noise generated from rear facing would be the cause of unwanted questioning re: the value of the mods,,,Also prefer the quieter option (happy campers) and spin my hd when needed.
Rossco, Going to have a chat with Mill tomorrow, missed him today and was wondering what ram head you ended up with and also want to turn it rewards.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
What build specifics can you advise me of for discussion with Mill, eg: the ram head and snorkel compatibility. Prefer recessed snorkel and also do a solid SS duct thru along inner guard for snorkel. Currently run 3" SS pipe to turbo inlet with MAF sensor port in place, of which should be able to be retained with the use of a silicon joiner. Interested in air box/snorkel combo.
Any advise is appreciated. If a good outcome, I will do a run to Mansfield for install.
Hey John, snorkel head I bought beforehand from a truck place and is 4 in but don't know what brand it is tho. Mill uses the safari 3.5 inch head and fits inside the tube which i do kinda like. A bit controversial tho with some schools of thought saying it won't drain properly in heavy rain I did ask mill and he said if you utilize the drain be puts in it's not a problem at all. The drain in mine works a treat i reckon have driven in crazy storms and just open the trap the next day and all good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Reckon if you nut it out in the day together he'll be able to work with whatever setup you want. Looking at Daz @ Muskis snorks really do like the recessed look the radius ones are very nice i reckon but think he could do something similar. Actually just thinking MBs is really good and recessed and that's a millweld.
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I have a 4" Donaldson forward facing snorkel head on my SS snorkel. I don't think they look as 'finished' as the Safari, however are very strong and branch proof, it slides on the outside of the tube and drains externally. Its a bit more work in the fabrication though to get the head sitting vertical though. Noise wise its pretty quiet but you can hear it sucking when the revs get up.
Yes, and to @MB point, the airbox does fill up pretty quickly with bugs and crap, but the engine is also drawing a lot of air as well I guess.
Yeah Rossco, Mill does GU recessed, Safari do the 4" hd but if Mill does not carry I will pick one up. Will do rotating ram head, but must say in the 15 yrs of running fwd facing snorkels never needed to rotate them. Then again not much snow or convoy driving but good to have in case. Do like his drain set up.
Phil, recon both ram heads would do the job fine, profile a bit different and the drain slots on the outside drain the water ingress surprisingly well and yes as long as they are not blocked. But heavy rain, may open the tap as Rossco mentioned. I have stage 3 h/f turbo with safari snorkel and does like to draw the air thru, one main reason for upgrade and do not mind the throaty sound under load with revs up as I can hear that all is happy.
Will post here. Millweld prefer to use 'Flex Duct' to run thru inner guard void to connect their SS snorkel (solid pipe) to air box. I prefer to use a solid SS 4" pipe section but Mill considers it is too labor intensive and room is limited, especially with recessed snorkel, Yes plenty of manufactures of 4" snorkels do use solid piping right thru with silicon joiners/bends.
My question is, has any one had experience with using the "flex duct" mat'l and how have you found its suitability and serviceability?
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Seems fine on mine John mate, 2 years fitted now. Must be near impossible to run solid all the way inside the guard and out again on my recessed version. All in all it’s not exposed to UV or engine bay heat either.
I would imagine that all snorks have to flexy or elbow join their airbox’s inside somehow so 2 joints only ever either way you go.
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Good Mark, the material is standing up to it then, thanks.
Yeah, near impossible to run one piece all the way w/o lot of panel beating I would think. Most use a second solid pipe section along inside guard, but use two connector/joiners of type (5 clamps), instead of only 2 if running flexy duct from snorkel thru to air box (so bonus there). Had a good chat with Mil yesterday, recons only take a day and may fit in before end of yr.
Lot of good info here lately gents, on intake and snorkels... Forum community at its best.
This has been my #1 watched thread since Darren began his upgrade. I've got the green light to go the BorgWarner just like his, but the intake was a grey area for me so, I'm snipping all the info for when I eventually bite the bullet. Which I'm aiming for Feb 19.
For me thus far, recessed black SS with a ram head.
Air box, I have room to play with since i dont have a battery there so... I'll have a few options I hope.
Hoidge, Have a look at Radius Fab.
There LS1 panel filter has terrific flow and has good reputation. Would of gone that way but too much stuff under bonnet to move. Normally need to shift battery tray approx 20mm rearwards. If you do not intend to use that space check it out. Personnel preference, is to use sealed lead acid battery so I do not stow battery in veh cab.
http://www.radiusfabrications.com.au/
Darren put it up at post 100.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post703239
@Bidja
Thanks.
That LS box looks like the go. Quick google and a read across several forums reveals that panel type is least restrictive.
My mate pointed out that , there is always LS1 radius fab units popping up on FB market. People have bought and realised they wont fit due to the battery. I'm tempted to snap one up, which will save a bit of coin and a wait directly from the fabricators. Otherwise, I'll just buy the complete combo from them and will source the ram locally.
I was leaning towards the radius SS unit. I have seen Mudskis and it means business. I already have a Safari snorkel, so the cut on the panel left after fitting the SS is minor.
Hodge, Checked out his web page the other day and he is fitting a see thru panel in lid for 200 series landcruiser airbox ($750). Get a visual of filter. Must say though it is the down stream eg: cleaner side of filter but nice touch and you would see a discoloration as dirt accumulates.
https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...4b&oe=5C704F59
PM me the FB pages you are referring to re LS1
Hey mate they are not pages as such. Just people putting thing up for sale on FB market. And sometimes the fatz boxes come up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
I like the clear view of the filter panel.. looks neat instead of just a stainless steel lid.
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Now understood, social media (FB) is pretty new to me. Thanks, search came up with "FB Market Place"...getting better..hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
With Radius Fab, have communicated thru his FB page (Richie, I think), waiting on some pics showing filter clearance (not yet arrived) so think he is pretty busy. Good sign.
Early on there was reports of the panel filter failing and getting sucked into induction pipe, pretty rare and think it is now supported much better and problem may have gone away.
Fatz Fabrication do a LS box as well but use a K&N pod filter:
http://www.fatzfab.com.au/gu-patrol.html
Thats the way I should have gone. A bit more effort for the install but worth it IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
I had the kettle dynoéd at Dieseltec last week. Geez Andy is different person to deal with.... Anyhow, he spent the day trying different tunes and this is what he came up with.
Attachment 76897
He came to the conclusion that a Garret GT3071 is too big for a TD42. The turbo starts making boost later in the rev range than what should be for a TD. As this has been the way since I have had it, I don't know any different. I just drive it in the power range it delivers. Boost down low would be nice, but I cannot justify spending more just for that.
He suggested if I wanted to have lower boost to get a 2863 or Similar. Meh! I just want to get rid of it now.
But atleast now there very minimal smoke. It was a choo choo train before.....
Looks sweet to my curvaceous gut graphs Mark mate! What are you chasing for exactly mate?
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Hey Markie, bugger your not happy with it numbers look very good but not so good to drive yeah? What about swapping out just the compressor side of turbo to something smaller that spools a bit quicker? Would of hoped jpc got it spot on in the first place i spose?
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Drop her into Low Range 1st and climb TD42T steady @ 2,100.3142 Pythagorous exactly[emoji106][emoji106]
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Big exhaust wheels
Noted he has increased fuel low down from AFR 17 to 14:1 in an attempt to get boost, do you notice more smoke low down?
Those figures are good though must say, but do understand your like for more low down. Long for torque like that mid range and now I see why you like to move a long.
Mark, read your post again, why it is blowing less smoke (tune)? Have near no knowledge with waste gate design turbo but with my VNT high flowed Garrett, it was initially a bit laggy low down and to get it to spool/boost earlier, was either to give it more fuel low down or to keep the veins closed longer by reducing the actuator rod length so less vacuum to lift the actuator lever to hit the stop to keeps the veins closed longer to get the turbo to spin up faster low down. Interested to learn here,
https://youtu.be/IUoiy22Q_lw
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This is my dyno tuned by him, 12mm pump and gtx2863Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
You are getting a higher output, eventually. If it were me I'd put up with it for a couple of years cos I'm sure it is still good to drive. Then go with the Borgwarner. I'm not a huge fan of the power delivery from the Garretts, it's like wait, wait, wait then all of a sudden it comes on hard.
The BW builds up more gradually and comes on full song earlier.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/11/141.jpg
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Tune and they turned his fuel down..Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
I followed him up there and and EPA would have had a field day on him....
But on the way home it was just a haze of smoke. Much much less than pre tune..
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Think I read graph wrong. So the blue trace was before tune on the 12th Nov?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Black trace is current result (higher AFR)?
Black is before, blue is after.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
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Yeah, this is how I read it first (blue current tune with reduced AFR/richer mix).Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
My understanding: lower the AFR is richer the mix (more fuel)) means smoke and engine heat. Not enough fuel (a high AFR) means clean running and lower engine temperatures.
Shit I actually got that wrong, blue is pre tune and black is post tune. So your theory is correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
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OK, ring Andy and ask which trace is current. I do think it is blue. More fuel does not necessarily mean more smoke under load, is also depends on overall tune.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
If you look at your blue trace eng produces more kW / N-m and a reduced AFR (increased fuel) and fairly level. Love the result only if my CRD could a achieve this torque behavior.
Same trend (blue trace) in both your graph and Mark's tune result. Different outputs but same trend.
By the way rule of thumb:Quote:
It is best said that a diesel begins to smoke when the AFR gets below 15-14:1 for a non-turbo and 16-15:1 for a turbo-diesel.
The black line on my chart is 100% the after tune.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
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OK then so, AFR higher and leaner.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Yep, you can see there is a key with a black dot on the left for 'after adjustments' and a blue dot below for 'compare run: drive in'Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Yeah I went in at 180rwkw and came out at 160. Less power but it runs good and no more puffing billy. I wont be changing out the turbo anytime soon. I'm done with it. Just pouring money into this thing lately and continuously chasing my tail with the cooling system. When the funds allow, I will be getting rid of the GU and buying something else.
Driveability is what counts.
Guess he decided to run a bit leaner for eng reliability. Yes, a rich mix apart from causing emission issues, can make eng run hotter and be to the detriment of engine longer life.
Have read that after market turbo diesel run best around 19-20 AFR or higher under full load and a factory turbocharged diesel of about 20-22:1 or higher under load. Not to say that you cannot run a richer mix many do.
My CRD procharge stage 3 h/f turbo, runs Max boost 26psi and 19:1 AFR. Came down to 19:1 AFR from 21:1 for more fuel low down to achieve improved early boost (getting there now the need to further improve induction).
I told Andy at Diesel tec to back it off, as i wanted driveability pretty much. Engine was still running hot though after the tune. But a crap load less smoke. I haven't had the chance to take it for a good run yet to see the real benefits of the new tune and all the new work I have done tot he cooling system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
What sort of temps you seeing and under what conditions?
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Just normal road driving Rossco its around 10c higher than usual. There a long'ish uphill run On the Research-Warrandyte rd mate heading north bound and not even flogging it it will see 95c without an issue on a 15c day. Any sort of load and the temps get up there real quick. Its never been like this. On the up side. The better fan and the oiled up hub does get the temps down a bit faster. I need to get it on the highway and see how it fares now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco