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@threedogs yes i know the boost was low.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
i checked for oil around the intercooler hoses, the oil was inside the hose out to the turbo. i don't think the intercooler is leaking but will do some more research on how to check it properly. i am planning to replace intercooler in a couple of months with a cross country one if i can ever save up enough.
cheers Warwick
Sounds about right. Min runs about 50 deg cooler and my max boost is 16psi. Low boost at low speed is not unusual, usually you see boost pick up when you are accelerating. A minor temp difference can also depend on where the sensor is mounted.Quote:
12-14psi from 0-60kmh @2500rpm
6psi cruising at 60kmh @1800rpm
12-14psi while increasing speed to 80kmh @2500rpm
8-10psi at 80kmh cruising @2000rpm
boost was very minimal at lower speeds???
couldn't get 100kmh readings because traffic blocked up in cairns only 100km zone lol
ALSO egt's for all above were around 450-500deg
IMO the CC IC is not worth the $$$ an OE one tigged and tested will give you about 30% more ICQuote:
Originally Posted by Warwick89
Bang for buck Id walk away from the CC IC its only a 3ltr after all,Just what I think. A tigged will
get and keep your EGT down, fitting the CC IC wont bring them down that much more for the $$$
you are paying, money that could be spent on say a front locker,,,,,lol
yeah i thought they looked a bit better today. i got worried Saturday night when EGT hit 600deg at 100kmh and boost was around 6psi cruising @200RPMQuote:
Originally Posted by 4bye4
Actually i had that happen when I first installed the NADS. No boost and high temps. Readjusted the dawes and never had it happen again. Maybe the spring got jammed or somthing. Anyway turned the adjuster then put it back to within a smidge of where it was in the first place and havent had a problem since.
using a boost adaptor which fits under OE boost sensor it quickest and neatest way to find boost,Quote:
Originally Posted by 4bye4
prices vary so check first
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Easy-Fit-...cAAOSwo4pYizIb
Had my first day of driving post dawse & needle install.
Much nicer to drive but using more fuel. Seems to go up to max boost alot of the time or near it which I'm assuming is why she seems to be drinking more fuel.
I've not done much with the needle valve. I adjusted it so I could just see the actuator arm lift and locked it up at that point, to be honest I'm still a little in dark as to what it does!
Reading other info on the web, it seems that I can adjust the needle valve to adjust my boost, strange, I thought that was governed by the dawse valve?
Any pointers on what I could try to help cut down the fuel usage?
A quick update.
Firstly, I'm not sure about the accuracy of my boost gauge. Before I had it I was using the Torque app on my phone. During that time, boost never really went above 15s. I've fitted a real gauge and there's about 7-8 psi difference between the Torque app and the new physical boost gauge.
So, I had my boost set via the new guage to peak at firstly 20 psi, then upped it to 22psi. After about 220ks at 22psi it was drinking like a fish. I've dropped the boost to 18psi and adjusted the needle valve. I realised I hadn't set the needle valve correctly, so did that and added a just a tad more.
The thing is like a rocket now, it actually pushed me back in the seat, not that I drive like that, but it's nice to know it'll move when I want it to.
Q1 - Anyway at 100kmh I'm sitting at 16 psi and 340-360 on the pyro gauge. Does that sound about right???
When I had boost set at 22psi egts were almost always under 300 and only hit 350 going up hill in 5th.
Q2 - How do people get to 10 psi at 100kmh without their egts being through the roof?????