Overdrive Gears and spacer arrived today, picked up replacement main shaft bearing 'just in case'. Installation Dec 15
Attachment 82580
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Overdrive Gears and spacer arrived today, picked up replacement main shaft bearing 'just in case'. Installation Dec 15
Attachment 82580
Few stats from a couple of days away out to Vic East Gippsland. Ambient temp circa 30 degC
Cruising Speed 110kph, 2000rpm, 33" tyres 3.9 diffs and 5 speed manual trans ( using two GPS speed references) 100kph - 1925rpm - fuel consumption circa 18.5l/100klm - off fuel flow meter
Cruising fuel consumption 21L/100klm @110kph - off fuel flow meter
Boost 14psi
Under bonnet temps 88-92 degC
Inlet air temp to s/c 41C
Inlet air post s/c i/c and to engine 46C - measured in one leg of inlet manifold
Inlet water temp to Interchiller 28C
Water temp post i/c coil 39C
Rad temp inlet temp post engine 82-88degC
Rad water temp post radiator 70 - 76C
Trans temp 68DegC
Transfer case temp 68DegC
Oil temp off cooler 42degC
Fuel pressure 10psi
EGT 170DegC
Running AFM water injection spray into inlet of s/c from 5psi
I/c pump flow rate 54lpm
I/c Pump system pressure 32psi thru 3/4" hoses
Modified external spray bar on radiator when in low range drops temp 5 deg in under a minute, however the water mist does lubricate the 8 rib belt and it will squeal. Rad temps rise quickly to 94degC at slow speed, moderate eng revs, then hit button to knock it back down - happy with this set up.
So happy with everything except the fuel consumption right now. Over drive gears go in this tuesday, so cruising rpm should drop to 1730 - 1800 and fuel consumption drop accordingly. Will see.
Only negative is i think the a/c pump is struggling under the pump pressure or the clutch is struggling as it appears to be getting so hot it won't release when de-energised - sort of a stutter when the engine is actually turned off shortly after a run - could be a faulty clutch as well i guess but its only run for less than 3000klm at most.
Awesome honest update info Philstar Mate[emoji106][emoji106]
From what I remember of the old 6.5NA Shed Queen [emoji23]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/12/72.jpg
Those snippet (apologies) basic radiator temperatures are beyond perfect IMO.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/12/73.jpg
Again apologise for picture snippet but spray systems I’ve embarrassingly helped install on close mates TD42T’s are a dead set waste of time. As you kindly pass on, very short lived help and merely a bandaid for an insufficient setup [emoji106][emoji106]
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@MB, in low range they control the heat rise beautifully on my installation. The simple solution is good radiator coverage and ample water for the right amount of time. The first two spray bars i installed failed miserably. The sprays were too fine and the volume too low. I ended up going to a local irrigation shop and buying brass spray heads at 1LPM rating and 180 deg spray pattern. I run 4 of them off a 4LPM diaphragm pump. They could be be described as a deluge nozzle, large water droplets. I don't know what the actual delivered flowrate is, and cannot tell if the pump is cycling or not when its on against any back pressure. I didn't bother trying at speed as my temps were totally under control.
Regards 'insufficient system', maybe a bit harsh for the poor old radiator. Its no doubt working a lot harder that Mr Nissan designed it for,(certainly the real estate area afforded for a radiator on the Nissan is a lot smaller than the US tanks) plus there would be a lot of motors and cooling systems out there that have been jinked around with and not running to factory speck anymore. My system does the job, costs under $100 and takes 4 hrs to fabricate and install. If you are running a vee belt drive i would guess the belts may not squeal like the shallow 8 rib, but this is a short lived interruption to my tranquility as the water quickly evaporates.
Late night harshness whoops [emoji51]
1 litre per minute, how many hours climbing through to the Zoo camp X litres X weight guesstimated? Have you got a decent elecy thermo fan out front shoveling slow speed air through Philstar?
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The water is drawn from the on-board water tank. It holds 120L. If I draw down 20L in a weekend trip I would be surprised, especially at how effective the water wash is at transferring the heat. I run a monster 16" elec fan on the front of the radiator in-line with the mechanical. It pushes 2500cfm supposedly. I have a couple of smaller 12V fans sitting around and am always able to shuffle this one across a couple of inches and whack another 1000cfm+ thru the radiator if required. The removal of the grill itself has made a considerable difference I believe also. The elec fan is on all the time as its pushing air thru the two condensers for the Interchiller setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Truck stopped on the way out of the campsite on friday. Process of elimination revealed an in-line fuel shut off valve, solenoid actuated, off an anti theft setup had triggered the valve to close, and subsequently the engine ran out of fuel, as designed, only problem being that i had not triggered the valve to close. Today, I started looking further and what should have been a zero voltage relay output, has now decided to turn into a 0- 1.44 - 2.77V - 0 circular pulse to the relay . This is at rest, no engine running, so in fact may be higher again with the engine on. Lucky i had spare fuel hose and clamps to allow me to take the valve out of the fuel line, and get home to resolve. Off the road for maybe 30 mins, but covered in diesel all the way home - stinky shit it is.
Update, manufacturer contacted me from WA and is dumbfounded how this can happen, wants the unit back, together with the relay to see if there is in fact a fault with the unit, well, there is obviously as it should not trigger by itself. Will wait and see what the outcome is.
"Under bonnet temps 88-92 degC"
that right there is a problem....
everything under the hood is being cooked, does the hood scoop not allow any heat to escape?
maybe raise the trailing edge of the hood to see if letting out the heat would drop the temps.
I'll check with the powertrain boys at work to see what they think, but to me thats seems high
Ralph, I am sure this is leading to the elevated inlet air temps to the s/c due to heat soak of the airbox and the air pipe. i am going to insulate both. I am also planning on a 6mm shim to begin with to raise the rear of the bonnet. I had a look today regards fitting the 4" bilge blowers and it is so tight now. I may have to retreat to 3" simply for space, however I think this is an area for improvement for sure. Only other thing I could bank on is some inaccuracy with the probes, however these are used elsewhere and have proved to be quite accurate, at most 2degC off during an IR check. I am also going to speak to Bullet about an insulation blanket over the externals of the blower. I also run an insulated blanket between the s/c inlet manifold and the motor valley - FI Interchillers sell that for about $100.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
The big scoop is ineffective over about 30klm/hr according to the telltale ribbons i have used in the past - simply need to now stir up the air volume and force it out
Bit the bullet - again, and picked up a pair of BOSS rear spring mount stiffeners from Patrol A Part. Got a welcome and unexpected discount as well, having mentioned the Forum exposure they have. They will sit there for a job over the Xmas break I think.
G’day Ralph Mate!Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Was kindly educated by some TD42 (very similar donk heat characteristics) Legends on here years ago that this is not the ADR-Roads legal answer :-) ?
Certainly proven to me at higher engine bay pressure needed speeds and was personally in the middle of slower speed tests with another 6.5 Manometer owner until he unfortunately moved on from here.
I do now have a ‘Blitz’ ADR compliant bonnet with slimline very very forward/front slits that works wonders on the highway assisting shoveling engine bay heat downwards/rearwards out below but do still wonder at slower speeds if it’s hindering my electrical fans pressurising the engine bay down and safely windscreen out!
Aim of the game as I understand is to get that hot shit out down low and away from all our up top good bits like your Superchargers?
By far the greatest ‘hot bits’ in our 6.5 V8 crammed GU & GQ conversions are the down low exhaust manifolds left/right firewall near touching and in my nuffy opinion the Powertrain Legends might agree that the fastest route out is below & backwards?
PS: Would it be fair to say that some TD42’s with giant top mount intercooler bonnet scoops run hotter overall at lower lugging speeds maybe?
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I'm not sure about that. I have the cross country top mount with the big scoop and have never had an issue with temps at low speeds. I've actually wondered whether it runs too low at slow speeds.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
When pushing it at high speeds and towing I do have to keep a little eye on the temps on hot days.
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Cheers Chrisso Mate, do you have an electrical fan on the IC to stop the hot air rising back through it when pushing hard up slow climbs?
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Yes I do, no idea if it works/how well it works because it's been on the whole time the cooler has been on so can't compare without it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
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Awesome, this could be a perfect test opportunity Chrisso [emoji106][emoji106]
Unplug the elecy fan and do a second identical hill climb to measure EGT’s again for starters maybe?
Could always shove your BBQ temp probe into the engine bay rear upper area too?
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Under hood heat is quite an issue on some vehicles, when I was working at GM, the issue we had with the Commodore, the trans tunnel was so full that no air flow would occur, and the engine bay sides were sealed for drive by noise compliance, therefore, getting the air out was quite a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Bringing this back to the Patrol, I'm not a fan of exiting the air downward.
At low speed exiting the air downward is problematic as heat will tend to rise, and vehicle speed may not be sufficient to push is down and out, plus you may be axle deep in "stuff". Thats why there are raised trailing edge hoods.
I'm currently looking at a passive solution that will allow the hot air to exit through a low pressure area on the hood, so that it will be effective at both low and high vehicle speeds.
If I can find the time over the Christmas break I hope to post some details, on my progress.
I have ordered the 2 bilge blowers, 3" diameter and will play around with these to begin with. The spacing of the bonnet even by 3mm will make a difference, and as long as its not obtrusive I may get away with it. Might start with 3mm then move to 6mm. thanks for the thoughts guys. I had gills in my bonnet as you might remember @MB and whilst they emitted a heap of heat at low speed, stationary, the vehicle still hit 125degC on one occasion on that Hi Cone trip - after the long low range climb thru Darrens ' regrowth track. The point I am making is that natural venting was not sufficient to remove the heat. If I stir the air up and provide a physical high level gap for it to escape, the air volume will be displaced/replaced. Thats the theory anyway.
I will try to direct airflow towards the exhaust manifolds for sure on the basis i can push what i can out the bottom and what is rising out the windscreen gap.
OK, had a conversation with the powertrain engineers about the under hood temps.
The consensus is that 65c is what is seen during Camaro ZL1 dyno runs, and that is what a "running" vehicle should be at,however, with heat soak goes up to 85c +.
The engineer thought that fans directed over the exhaust and exiting under the vehicle sounds like a solution, that is, if you can't vent through the hood (the Camaro has this hood venting)
All under hood plastics are generally rated to 140c from the factory. After market stuff (read Chinese) may not be so rated.
This is quite interesting, as I now have a hood without a scoop, and was not planing to add vents. So, active underhood venting may be a plan.....
Thanks ralph, I have installed and wired up 2 off 100cfm bilge blowers generally directing air towards the exhaust headers. The rear of the bonnet is raised 10mm, and removed the rubber weather seal to allow a full flow condition at the windscreen. Once i have the bonnet catch resolved i will take it for a blast and report back. I do have a third 3" blower that I am thinking of mounting up higher in the bonnet area to stir up the upper air - just a thought at this time.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
OK, update time.
Marks4x4 5th gear. Pre install 1925rpm at 100khr, now smack on 1600. Fuel now down to 15 - 17l/100, pretty damn happy, and sink the boot in 5th and off he goes. Whether this is the sweet spot or not for economy, don't care, it works.
Rear Coil replacement - booked a workshop fit with Dobinsons in Dandenong - highly recommend this, system they employ is great and service spectacular, workshop guys friendly knowledgeable and solution seeker/providers. The weighed the car on each corner first, took the measurements with the airbags inflated and deflated, then whilst the guys removed the coils they ran the numbers, and two coils came up, both XHD GU coils - they don't rate the GQ coils as a product line any more but GU are interchangeable.
The target was a 40mm lift over standard and use the BOSS triple airbags for level trim. The coil are 1mm dia thicker and 75mm higher thanthe ones removed. Coil number is C45-325T, 250-350kg constant rate coil. The originals were a 400kg variable rate coil, and they sagged within 9 months of installation. These ones sit the car slightly up at the rear, but does not look crazy. This is without the airbags inflated. Rides well, still top heavy so can get a bit of a wander on curves at speed. Happy with outcome.Attachment 82798
Also bought one of these after the spring guys had trouble getting the rear end to drop down far enough for the longer springs.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Superior...72.m2749.l2649
Further update on under bonnet temps after a 30 minute run down the freeway. The under bonnet temps are sitting at 75deg when cruising and site at circa 80 deg C soak after 10 minutes stopping, which is all an improvement on the 95 to 100degC previously, however not quite at the 60 deg c earlier reported.
Phil did you fix the bonnet latch issue? I can’t seem to find the thread on it...
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All good Mark, thanks for remembering! The channel that runs across the front of the radiator was bent 'inwards and canted the catch over towards the bullbar' - extreme description but you get the picture. I bought a new catch as well after destroying the original chasing avenues of craziness! Anyway the solution was leave the channel as it was and make a 6mm packer to slide under the lower edge of the bonnet catch bracket. Unbelievable it fitted and worked perfectly. Now the bonnet is so aligned I just have to push it shut not drop from 10".Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
The bonnet rear is lifted 10mm now and removed the rear rubber seal as well, so with the under bonnet bilge fans blowing over the headers and 'maybe' a little bit of flow thru the bonnet scoop, the temps have dropped 20 - 25 degC when moving and 15-20 when heat sinking at slow speed, so sort of worth the pain I guess, but wish it was straight forward.
That’s good mate. Glad too see it was sorted...
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Willwood Brakes, car up on hoist, all parts stripped, rears swapped out fine, fronts, wrong kit supplied. Who would have guessed? Parts coming over night hope it does not clog up the mechanics workshop too much. Unsure how stuff ups like this can be avoided. very frustrating.
Buy local :)Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
I'm in Melb, bought from Bendigo, how much more local can you get when they are the only agents in vic? Simply not paying attention when they put the kit together, sent out a GU kit instead of GQ.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Fixed.....Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
You've had shit luck Phil, that's all there is to it. Fortunately I've never had the same problems as you when ordering online, perhaps my luck will run dry eventually!
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Its funny Chris, I placed the order over the phone with them, but its a simple stuff up in the packing area I suspect. Anyway I hope this is the last piece of the puzzle, although maybe a cedar spa tub to rival @MB honky bathtub might be the go now that I have the brakes to stop it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Wife ordered some bathers on line - why, who knows, but anyway they arrived today 4 sizes too small, different to what she ordered and a short note saying they were out of stock in her size, so sent these in place of the right ones - now what hope have you got with that approach? Thats not a stuff up, thats simple incompetence - Oh sorry, its to do with Covid, like everything else thats gone tits up in the last 12 months.
Haha mate that reminds me of my recent paper delivery subscription. First day expecting a paper it never arrived. Second day expecting a paper it never arrived. Down to the local newsagent to ask where are my papers was told didn't know where your house was so delivered maybe next door. Next door I say? No not next door, think I threw it opposite side of street to you. Why I ask, you had my address? Didn't know where your house was. You're a grown man you can't read street numbers? No answer. Fair dinkum the days when kids were brought up with work ethic, I wasn't really happy about it but I got up before sparrows to treadly my way around town fog, ice, rain and hail to deliver the papers. Today's adults cannot comprehend a simple address. Now no fcuks are given. In this case the curry may have affected his mind poor fella.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Its gets worse! No parts arrived, and two of the same 'handed' rotors sent with the kit. Exchange rotor on the way also. What a total cluster. Nil communication from the distributor, but they sure are fast to return a call for a sale. Back to site Wed at 5am, hope the parts are installed by then.
Wow! That’s one stuff up.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
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Crikey Philstar, stop kicking black cats and walking under ladders Old Mate [emoji51][emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
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Life wasn’t meant to be easy, squeezy the boundaries always breaking new ground you are Legend [emoji41][emoji106][emoji106]
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Spoke with the storeman this morning - he took responsibility, simply picked the wrong parts - now wasn't that refreshing to have a person admit they screwed up. Anyway, parts in transit, should be done and dusted monday depending on workshop loading, probably tuesday.
OK, got a question for all you Super Charged guys, (I'm looking at you Pee Bee)
What is the thread size at the rear of the manifold to plumb in a MAP sensor?
1/8th NPT,BSP? or is it metric M10x1.0
I'm not close enough to the beast to find out.
cheers
If this is the fitting where the oil pressure sender is fitted it is 1/8" bsp, 28TPI. I fitted a 1/8" bspT adapter into the port to take the oil pressure sensor and oil pressure gauge feeds from.
Hi Pee Bee,Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
no the fitting at the rear on the manifold next to the super charger, for boost pressure measurement.
this is the fitting
Attachment 83685