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Cheers Cameron, appreciated!
Despite having over 410000 on it, it does still run very well. And being a daily, changing these things just gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling knowing its new and shouldn't fail any time soon.
Next big job will be a new rear diff housing as mine has the slightest bend in it, according to the blokes that did my last wheel alignment anyway, so will be a good chance to source a cheap one and rebuild it.
Kicking goals this afternoon.
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Remember that chain slapping noise I was talking about?
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Really wish I knew the history of the engine. Doesn't not look like 400000km worth. Guessing it's had a rebuild at some point.
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For those interested, a tb42 oil pump identical to a tb42e pump, except that a tb42e pump does not have a cam to run a mechanical fuel pump.
Modded the thermostat by adding a washer to the by pass valve. Has to get super hot for this to even close, so a little extra help with the washer to keep things cooler.
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I am a little confused about this one??? not saying much though as I am all over the shot at the moment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
There's a thread on the other patrol forum Jonathan about modding the by pass valve. Well worth a read.
More progress. Cleaned up
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New gear installed. No more chain slapping around.
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Dropped a bolt into the sump. Bloody pain but I wanted to remove it anyway and have a swuiz. Crank and rod end play is bloody good for a motor with 400000km on it so I'm happy.
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Im not on the other forum mate..?
Either am I. I found it by accident on Google.
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/engin...8/topics/62472
So how much wear was there on the tensioners to get chain slap, Parksy?
The cam shaft chain has a spring tensioner which automatically adjusts tension where as the oil pump chain does not. This is adjustable, but it's manual and requires the guide to be pushed against the chain and bolts torqued. The actual guides did have little chain groves in them, but I wouldn't class them as u/s. An adjustment would probably have sufficed, but I had new parts anyway so I wasn't going to do a half job.
If you compare the old sprocket with new, there is reason why there would be slop.
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Chain guides have a slight groove.
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Imagine how many times that chain has completed a full revolution in 400,000+ kms. Pretty amazing really.
The guys down at the "Souq" (industrial/car carage market area) gave mine back and it idled fine, but didn't run well above that. Had to have a second go at getting things lined up for timing to be right. :) Second time it came back fine.
Hopefully I don't run into that issue Cameron. Everything lined up correctly when I put it together so fingers crossed. Can't be arsed doing it again.
Just need to bolt power steering pump, pulleys on, radiator back in and fluids filled.
Done and done! New oil, coolant, bleed, timing set and running awesome.
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Whats with the heater hose there Andy??
You should have seen the oil pump gear in my EFI engine... it was a ninja star.
Nice. Don't have a pic of it by any chance?
The hose is for the catch can. Works pretty well.
Rebuilt the clutch booster as it was leaking. Fairly straight forward, but needed a mate to help seperate the two halves. Now it's back together, the booster is working nice and pedal feel is light. But the clutch feels different so need to get used to it again. Feels like when I remove my foot off the pedal, the clutch wants to engage almost instantly. This sound normal? Engages about a cm from the floor. Push rod was adjusted to 130 mm as per the manual.
Yeah mine feels awesome after rebuilding my booster... so very light under foot.
Here I was thinking it was a heavy clutch when all along it was the booster....lol
Can't remember if I mentioned it but late last year I had a wheel alignment done and apparently the rear diff housing has a slight bend in it. A bit of toe out on the rhs. Not sure what caused this, high mileage or a hard knock at some point. But i bought a rear diff housing to swap it out with. Braced it with some 6mm 75 square tube that I cut in half to avoid any bending issues later on. Despite being very dirty, it's in awesome shape.
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You do like to make sure things are done ... well, "properly". :)
I wonder again what you are planning to do to it or hit with it, but I know you will just say you are preparing just incase. Certainly a decent piece of steel!
Thanks Cameron, no time to muck around. Probably pointless efforts, but I enjoy it.
Cleaned the diff housing and painted it in por15. Will do a few more coats tomorrow.
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3 Coates of por15 and it's nice and shiny and thick.
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Wheel bearings felt good so used a syringe and thin tube that would reach the bottom of the bearings to inject fresh grease into them.
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Pulled the old housing apart and removed it and am in the process of installing the new housing.
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In the rear diff housings, there is a baffle of some sort, and I found this in the old housing wedged in there!!
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Old seal out...
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New seal in...
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You could at least have washed your springs while you were there ;):DQuote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
I thought about it, but they will just get dirty again. Plus I'm thinking about getting new springs.
Jeez your a slacker...... hahahahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
I am not a number, I am a free man
Hahaha yes that I am.
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Looks slightly different with the square tubes. But it is finished! For now...
Did you know your rear shocks are upside down?Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
I'm really finding this thread depressing :(
Think I might have 2 put my MOD hat on and accidentally delete this thread.....ops did I just type out what I was thinking! *L*
And yeh the shocks look upside down 2 me 2
It's not that depressing is it?
With regards to the shocks, it certainly wouldn't fit the other way around. The thing you guys are looking at is a stone guard.
ahhhh now I see what you mean by stone guards......... my apologies Parksy
It's all good. I'm just happy to get under the patrol and see no leaky axle seals. Bloody pains they are. Old leaks evident on the inside edge of the left rear tyre.
Installed some yuppi style clear indicator lights. Looks alright I think.
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Jury's out on those at the mo, maybe the headlights need changing tooQuote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
New led spot lights that cost $150. Quality seems very good for the price. Housing is alloy and they are very heavy. Cree leds. Haven't tested them yet on the road, but shining them through the neighbours windows proves they are very effective.
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Lookin good Parsky
I so hate when this thread pops up on the "whats new"
Haha no you don't. Don't say things you dont mean... :p.
New boots on the old girl.
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