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The actuator and its rod need to lift the arm until the arm hits the arm stop screw. This needs to happen in order to create boost unless you are doing very high rpm.
Yes, that picture shows the heat shield on. You should be able to see the arm move as the engine is started.
There is no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers......haha!
well i only get boost at the moment at very high rpm.
And i cant see anything move when i start the engine.
So to make sure im going to the right thing. I will pick up a vaccum gauge tomorrow. Might need it again down the track so ill buy one.
check the vaccum from the hose coming from under the intercooler, and goes to the solenoid. should be about 26-30 hg when idling.
if i get that reading, check the vaccume on the hose just after the dawes valve to see if its the same.
If its not is it definately the dawes valve? Or can it be the vaccum solenoid?
Yes, you have the first part right except that when you check the hose after the dawes valve you’ll need to bypass the solenoid again. If you do it with the solenoid in the vacuum circuit, you’ll get a reduction in vacuum from the solenoid because the solenoid pulses from the ECU.
It’s unlikely to be the vacuum solenoid because you’re boost was low after you bypassed it. It’s a good idea to have a vacuum gauge for testing. They are not very expensive and can be a good diagnostic tool, particularly with vacuum control systems such as this.
ok thanks mate.
so i do what i did today with the test you asked me to try. and then check the other end of the dawes valve? so no hose runs through the vaccum selenoid?
Correct. Doing this way will eliminate the solenoid as a cause. If you have good vacuum at the vacuum supply pump and the Dawes valve when vacuum is connected to it, then the issue must be the solenoid. I suspect though, that you’ll have vacuum at the vacuum pump pipe, but not with the Dawes connected, so the leak will be in the Dawes valve.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
mate i pulled of the line that goes over the engine and i got nothing. It is the one that goes through the black cylinder isnt it? then from there it goes to the solenoid.
what the???
Ok, then your car is a GUII with a vacuum canister. Did you check for vacuum on the other side of the canister? The canisters are known to split. I have removed and bypassed a couple with good results, but you should then have vacuum on the tube to the canister and from the vacuum pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
If you have vacuum coming from the pump, then just bypass the canister and remove it if you like. You don’t need it and even Nissan removed them on the GUIII. My car doesn’t have one.
Yeah it's a GUII.
No air going from whatever it is under the intercooler (vacuum pump??) to the canister!!!
It shoal have vacuum straight away yeah? Or should I leave it for a while?
This pipe yeah?
Yes, you should have vacuum instantly after starting the engine. If you have no vacuum at that pipe that passes over the engine, the pipe is either damaged or where it connects to the steel pipe it may have come off. You should be able to see this just in front of the intercooler where the rubber tube connects to a steel pipe that runs down to the vacuum pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
If your vacuum pump wasn’t working, you would have no brakes and a very heavy clutch.
Getting there…..slowly!