I pulled the winch out today and welded a steel loop from the shoulder to the drum.
So how do I attach the rope? Do I just thread the rope through and tie a big knot, or do I splice an eye around the loop?
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I pulled the winch out today and welded a steel loop from the shoulder to the drum.
So how do I attach the rope? Do I just thread the rope through and tie a big knot, or do I splice an eye around the loop?
A knot will suffice. The anchoring is via the compression of the rope and friction with the wraps around the drum. If you cast your mind back to the steel cable, its a simple crimp, and has zero load capability.
No worries. After watching how the lug can be stripped from the rope during a winch comparison, I've wanted make that Impossible to occur. This morning, I had the rope fully extended to one layer on the drum, to rip some over hanging branches off a dead tree. I was very luck not to have the lug rip out.
This little Aldi winch made the Old Trol (in 4L with the hand brake reefed on as tight as I could get it) skip across the paddock when doing some of the thicker branches.
Now, to get the brake mechanism to function.
@PeeBee At 2:20 minutes you can see the rope pulling the lug out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBp9fVsD_I4
Craig, the instructions should read something along the lines of having a minimum number of wraps on the drum before putting load on the cable, something like 4-6 wraps as a guide and this is a minimum. The lug will come away from the rope because its not a structural element and never designed to take load. The PTO winches and I think a lot of the high mount winch guys use the loop and knot anchor, but its not to allow the winch to be able to use more cable, it simply a better termination for the end of the rope.
I understand that, Phil. my winch still had 12 plus wraps today, (no instructions came with the rope) but the winch on the vid had multiple layers and still let go. I actually thought the first branch would break a lot easier than it did. All the others were done with a hell of a lot more rope on the drum, and that is when the vehicle was towed across the paddock.
If the load is put onto the rope when the wraps are not tight right from the start, the force will act straight on the lug as the compression and friction elements are not in play. I reckon your 12 wraps is a good safe proposition. I try not to go less than 8 and thats with load on the rope from the start. I have tried a pull without the line being loaded up and the cable pulled straight out of the lug - put me in a very difficult position as I was stuck on a steep pinch at the time , then without a winch. I didn't watch the video, as seem to recall seeing it ages ago. Are you saying the vehicle actually was pulled towards the tree? There is nothing wrong with the Aldi winch in my mind. It will do the job and thats all you need - right?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Craig, had a quick watch, and all I could assume is that the rope is so slippery and the coefficient of friction so low between the rope and the drum that the clamping action simply didn't take place on those winches - which is really surprising , no friction so the lug takes the pull - food for thought and I might just ensure a greater number of wraps that what i have used previously
Yep it did pull the patrol toward the tree. Apart from having water ingress, (which I found after buying it), the only trouble I've had with the winch is the brake system has never worked. I've tried a few times to get it going. But since the unit was second hand I think the previous owner had fiddled with it and had refitted it incorrectly.
Is your brake the style with the expanding spring inside the drum? I have overhauled 4 of these chinese winches myself. I also had a 'dod ear' break, and was able to source a replacement from TJM and also Milemarker in the US.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Its a funny arrangement. I'll get some pics tomorrow.