Righto ill be back when i fark it up
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Righto ill be back when i fark it up
I don't think it maters. From memory i left my gasket out... Been a few years now since then.Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
Ive got some sensor safe silicone so i might use a tiny smear of that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Wouldnt ya know it the only ring spanner thats gone walk a bout is me bloody 12mm!! Quick trip to sprints when it opens
I put the gasket on the engine side but as Hodge said I don't think it would matter.
I would think you would need a socket rather than a ring spanner.
Yeah socket with extension from memory. You will not have enough room for a spanner, otherwise you'll be there forever doing 1/100th of a turn at a time.
RightO my sprints wasn't open fork them, need a 12mm ringy to replace the lost one. So intercooler off and the bracket holding the fuel hoses to the egr thing
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/207.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/208.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/209.jpg
But this MOFO snapped getting it out ?!$@
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/210.jpg
Anyway EGR blanking plate in (cheers TD) and it still runs YAY
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Well done. Your engine is thanking you as we speak. It can finally breathe some fresh smog-less air.
Thought id effed up big time. Took her for a drive pop bdrdrdrdrdrddddrrrrrr. Didnt tighten one of the intercooler pipes up enough and popped it off
Sorry for the lack of updates. Lots has happened and didn't get a chance to work on my EGR idea to get clean air in instead and avoid the errors altogether.
Been running the car with EGR blocked. Basically TL;DR is that blocking is the only decent solution. There isn't a solution around this.
This is due to the fact that a lot of air is pushed out of the EGR valve. I removed the EGR system completely and made a T-junction to route the cooling now that the EGR cooling tube thing is taken out. So my initial plan to just loop the EGR valve into the air filter system before the intercooler wouldn't work.
Usually the air pushed out of the EGR is met with pressures from the exhaust system and cancel itself out. But one thing that I noticed is the EGR is open quite often to the point of stupidity. When put putting around the block, you could hear the EGR valve open often and every time it did, a km would've been taken away from the engine. Even if you made a chamber that can expand and contract, it would be too complex and too many parts that could go wrong.
Get a OBD-II diagnostics unit like scanguage and keep it handy. Also if you are up for it, take the EGR system out completely. Soo much more room to work on the intake side of the car. I can change the fuel filter without killing myself.
Also my engine is noticeably better. It feels more alive and no more black smog.
Edit: Added photos.
http://imgur.com/FXd9eQO
http://imgur.com/KK0L986
http://imgur.com/LZyJe3q
I will replacing the hose that is connected to the EGR plate with a cap soon.
I haven't done my fuel filter yet. Was looking at it yesterday and it looked like a bastard to do!
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I dunno if its my imagination, but she felt more responsive today after blocking the egr? Probably my imagination
[QUOTE=growler2058;650607]I haven't done my fuel filter yet. Was looking at it yesterday and it looked like a bastard to do!
undo pipes and remove filter with bracket attached that is what i did and was quite easy
put filter back in a quater turn so you can get to the sensor easyer
Your not the first to say it bloke.Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
A mate at work with a d40 navara said the same thing when he blocked his..
I didn't feel much on my 3L CRD when I had it. The biggest improvement was on my 2.5L CRD D22 Navara. When I plugged the EGR, it's as if the thing grew another turbo... I couldn't believe it !Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
By blocking the EGR doesn't it divert the extra exhaust gas
to the turbo, thus a bit more get up and go???
Thats what it feels like. As if its spooling a bit quickerQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Well that makes sense. .Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
could also be that you have 100% clean cold air from the intercooler and not a mix of dirty hot air coming in..
How are people going in the crd's with a full block throwing the ecu into limp mode?
I wanna get this egr block asap but a scan gauge or what ever won't be for a little while yet..
There's no rush mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
Remember the EGR is blocked at higher throttle settings anyway.
It only opens at idle/low settings to reduce NOX emmissions.
I would put a scan gauge or similar as one of your higher priorities.
It will tell you Boost, actual coolant temp, actual fuel flow, Alternator volts pus a few other handy things and read any fault codes.
Boost and temp are important if you want to start tinkering and actual fuel flow is bloody handy.
The only other gauge you need is an EGT
If you start dicking around with anything that you can't measure you are pretty much in the dark about what is really happening and I guarantee you the 'placebo' effect will kick in.
That's what I don't want to happen.
Any idea at what sorta rpm the egr shuts off?? Being a manual were changing around 3-3500rpm
EGR is controlled more by Throttle than RPM.Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
I used to drive my 07 CRD thru the gears relatively hard IE give it a bit of welly and changing at 3500 to 3750 give or take.
I find most CRDs like to get up to cruise or speed limit fast then back off and just tonk along.
It easily got the best fuel economy doing this around town rather than driving Miss Daisy which returned crap figures
IMHO if you have a high power demand that probably holds the EGR closed or close to it thru the gears as you accelerate.
Well there ya go.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
So flat to the floor is better [emoji3]
For me yeah... I edited my original post as I shouldn't have used the term TPSQuote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
There are several parameters involved
Pretty much. It is open quite often than not. If you are driving sensibly, it would be open for majority of the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
One more useful drawing of EGR block plate for rd28t
Attachment 65481
Very useful thread... Thanks a lot guys.
Anyone else took the swirl valves out when they blocked the EGR and cleaned their intake manifold? FYI Swirl valves are there to manage the mix of EGR and intake gases. I want to know if its more responsive and feels like there is more torque than stock. I think I might have lost some torque at the 1,000-1,500 rpm mark though.
On a ZD30? Don't bother. One of them is to assist in engine shut down, the larger one from memory, the other is the swirl valve control. Both vacuum controlled, so if you want to play around with the swirl, just remove and plug the vac line that goes to it. From memory the swirl stay open fully when disconnected.Quote:
Originally Posted by togenshi
I read the first 10 pages of this thread then ran out of time.
Is anyone here making blanking plates for the ZD30? I have 2013 GU 3L.
I think having to clear error codes generated by the EGR block will drive me crazy so I'm thinking.....
I know putting a hole in the blanking plate partially defeats the purpose, but let's say I block 50% of the gasses, that means it will take twice as long to get the same amount of EGR gassess into the intake as it would had I not partially blocked it. OR it will take 10 years to get as much EGR gassess into the intake at a 50% blocking rate instead of 5 years had I not done anything.
That sounds reasonably correct doesn't it?
Did you reset your ECU? I let my car re-calibrate itself for 30mins and had no P401 issues for months. Took battery off for a day, P401 everywhere :S. This is cause the ECU is expecting x amount of EGR. If you re-calibrate it to expect y amount of EGR (read none), the ECU wouldn't think there is an issue.
To re-calibrate the ECU, take the battery off the night before. Switch on car and let it idle till the temp is half way on the gauge.
Pretty normal if your running a Scan Gauge or similar to see this error come up on your model. @Hodge had a CRD with the full block and while he did see the error code he just left it from memory. Use a full plate, if the error issue concerns you, drill an 8mm hole in the centre of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EGR-Blank...item35d21ce63a
No I haven't recalibrated the ECU, I haven't even blocked the EGR yet. I'm not sure recalibrating like that would work, I'm probably wrong, but I thought the vehicle would be a bit more involved than that.
Just block that s### asap. It's like re-routing sewage into your fresh water intake.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
The code, apart from warning of something not right in the EGR system, does jack shit performance wise. It doesn't impact it one iota. For example it doesn't limp mode it or anything.
I just left my code sitting there and once a week, I check the codes to make sure there are not other codes involved.
Once in a blue moon that code will trigger an engine light. Have no idea WHY it doesn't do it all the time. But once again just clearing it gets rid of the engine light.
Drilling a hole in the plate is a waste of time, you might as well don't bother at all. It's like going to a brothel just for a hug. Why waste the effort.
Just block it completely and be done with it. Your engine will thank you for it.
Does anyone know about the legality of removing the egr system entirely? Looking at my GQ RD28 and thinking while the manifold is off it might be an idea
If your motor is fitted with an egr, removing the egr would be illegal and the fine is pretty exy i believe if caught without it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spannerdriver
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Well, pretty much totally illegal to dick with the anti-pollution systems on any engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spannerdriver
But...
The only out there may be would be if you can prove the 'changes' still passed emmissions.
Blocking or removing EGR without any other changes will mean the engine will fail NOX emmissions
Just blocked my egr and removed the butterfly from the throttle body on the intercooler last weekend (TD42) and made a big difference to the mid range.
Was a bit doughy off the mark before and is now noticeably better.
Can hear the turbo more now too . . . not sure of the boost as I don't have a boost gauge, but am waiting for some Auber gaugse to arrive so will know that and EGTs soon ;)
I blocked my EGR on my 2012 GU with ZD30 about a week ago, the car is a different machine. Pulls much better from a standing start and fuel consumption seems to be much better, I will only know for sure once I have run a full tank through and can compare. FWIW I put in a full blank and have had no error codes to date.
Actually EGR is load dependent, you can have a half throttle setting with full load (going uphill) and EGR would be shut, half throttle and light load (going down hill) EGR will open.Quote:
Originally Posted by togenshi
Just block that sh!t and be done with it. Lol.
Hi all. I've seen a couple of threads mention that those with a ZD30 and have put the EGR plate in get a check engine light. I also am having this just recently. When i got the car no issue, MAF dided, i put a non-genuine one in then a month later i had engine lights and limp mode. Have since adjusted my dawes valve because and bout a proper MAF, no more limp mode but i still get the light. Checked the code by bridging pins and it says EGR control valve failure or malfunction. I have cleared the codes several times but it just comes back. Any thoughts? at a guess i'd say the plate has no hole in it.
been talking to bigguwesty and he has been helpful, just thought i'd ask around some more also :) TIA