Hey mate, i did one better, i found your old thread and have merged them and renamed it for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Printable View
Hey mate, i did one better, i found your old thread and have merged them and renamed it for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Bloody legend! Cheers mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So the TD was built some 4 years ago. The engine builders put on this water rail which draws coolant from the cylinder head and back into the cooling system. This is because the TD’s have coolant flow dead spots and this jigger is supposed to help. Well. It’s been leaking since it was fitted. And it’s been back seven times and it still leaks. The water is fed into the head via a brass nut and olive setup. The coolant will only leak when the motor is cold. So my theory is when the engine gets hot, and it does, very hot sometimes, the brass fittings expand and then when it cools, the nut that holds the olive in tight loosens. Which it does, I have re tightened then on a few occasions.
Attachment 81447
So. Being fed up with this. I have hopefully found a resolve.
Using silicone coolant hose, from work of course, on barb fittings, and a special heat shrink hose clamp, compliments of work again, on the engine side of the setup. I cannot use any worm drive or other clamp as there is simply zero room once it’s all in.
I’ve only done one port so far as I want to see if it will hold up or not as the job is quite fidly trying to work around the injector spill rail and injector lines.
Attachment 81448
Attachment 81449
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also tested out my wiring for the winch switches. Works as i wanted. Push the winch in button and the light for that goes on and there is power out, push the button out and the light goes one and power out. Yay!
Attachment 81451
Attachment 81453
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Great stuff mate - let’s hope you coolant pipe idea works 👍🏻
So do I. Only doing one as a test. If it fails I will try DOT approved push fit fittings next. But o know the silicone hose will be better for the heat than nylon air hose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprock
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just about ready to mount the winch and get the bar back on.
Attachment 81467
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mark, maybe these are similar, but I was supplied a hose and fitting kit for my oil/hydraulic winch lines that are push on, and the only way to get them back off is to cut the hose down the length of the hose barb - they are rated at something like 300degC and they dont leak - have them on the winch, power steering and oil cooler lines. Its a blue rubber hose and the barbs have the flat face for the hose end - excellent system, didn''t believe they would work, but they did. If you have to make a repair to the line at anytime, or shorten the hose, slice it off with a stanley knife and push the hose back on. No hose clamps required.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
That pretty much what I need. There is zero room for a hose clamp to go around a barb fitting. I'll speak with Enzed today about them.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Not getting much done but...
Got the winch in the bar.
Attachment 81490
My concern is the winch will hit the power steering cooler, even though I’ve moved it back as far as I can.
Attachment 81491
Attachment 81492
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As this Patrol was a ZD, it has a heat switch on the dash which puts the revs up on the motor when at idle. Now not used for the TD42. I did have a small rocker switch in the dash I was using as a manual override for the thermo fans for when the kettle boils. I’m now using the defunct heat switch for the thermal override function.
Attachment 81493
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So I have the ARB twin compressor motor feed wires to the AUX battery. I noticed the wires have a lot of the green patina running up the copper.
Attachment 81541
So this needs to go. Also thinking the compressor motor feed should be from the Cranker battery so it’s getting full voltage when running. As I noticed the voltage drops on the aux battery to 12v and sometimes a little under when I’m using it. Even with the engine running.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Got all new sway bar link rod ends too as the old ones were flogged out. Just gotta find a way to stop the dirt from getting in...
Attachment 81542
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Roadsafe do a dust boot that may suit
https://www.4x4andcamping.com.au/pro...t-swaybar-link
Perfect. Thanks! I saw these on Patrol a Parts website with their link kits but not for sale separately. Im sure Quikazz is just an offshoot of Patrol a Part. I'll ring them tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloggsy
These are the GU ones
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Roadsafe...-/323858690444
Dunno how they are different. The GQ ones are the correct boots for both GQ and GU. Those look like tie rod boots to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloggsy
https://patrolapart.com.au/product/n...d-swaybar-link
Yup now you mention it, they definitely look tie rod boots.
Managed to squeeze in five minutes on the Patrol this weekend. Got the rear links done.
Attachment 81585
A bit sceptical how well these boots will work. I can easily move the boot to expose the ball of the joint. Better than nothing I suppose.
The fronts are a different story. I run a heavier aftermarket sway bar and the bolt size is much bigger.
So I will pretty much destroy the boots as soon as I tighten it all up. As the spacers that are normally used with these joint are not used on the fronts.
Hard to explain why. These boots need the spacers so they don’t get squashed when you tighten the retaining bolt up.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And also replaced the red tie rod boot and the the drag link boot. Now both sides are done. Sorry @AB. I’ve used my spares.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey Mark, did you get around to installing the winch switches on the bar. You can save me some googling time.[emoji1787]
Sent from my CPH1979 using Tapatalk
Haven't even got the bar on the Patrol yet mate. The winch in mounted in the bar and the bar is sitting on the ground. I'm going fab up a pulley system from my balcony to winch it up, hopefully the balcony holds it, then do a test fit. As I think the power steering cooler will be in the way still.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
Once its all mounted in then I'll worry about wiring.
G’day Mr Mark,
Hope you and the family are well mates!
This may possibly assist as to what I conjured up for my ute setup.
https://daviescraig.com.au/product/t...late-hydra-677
The old unfortunately discontinued Millweld bar (-80mm mount) I found zero chance of allowing the OEM power steering split coolers and lines to stay in place without severely rubbing through one day.
I was having issues also with our 12.5” wide tyres overheating the fluid under demanding twists etc..
Thankfully didn’t have to fabricate a single bracket either, simply utilised the OEM cooler brackets in different positions and a bit of bending/tweaking to finally mount the aftermarket cooler behind the High Mount gearbox to the drivers side of radiator.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...020/07/195.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...020/07/196.jpg
Your flash newly painted ARB bar may not require this mate but my PS fluid appeared to appreciate the modification anyhows [emoji106][emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Mark. I'm also running two thermo's, the second is right where you have your cooler. I think I might have to get inventive soon. Just gotta get the bar on temporarily first to see where I'm at.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Managed to get the bar on. I have about 5mm before the winch motor hits the cooler. But it’s on.
Attachment 81610
Attachment 81611
Attachment 81612
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Gave the beast a wash too. Something I forgot to do when I first parked it up in the garage. No more dirt falling on me when I’m under it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looks good Mark, well done, top effort.
So all is left is...
- mount the solenoid, somewhere
- wire in the solenoid to the winch motor
- cut and mount the grille
- Move the ARB twin compressor wiring to the main battery so the compressor gets priority voltage when running.
Then remove the ARB deluxe side steps, weld on some extra bits to make them into rock sliders.
- fix and re attach the rear 1/4 guard flare which was ripped off
- Get a new double din head unit.
Perfecto Mr Mark, looks truly awesome Mate!
Super intrigued about these essential double din head units though, where do we find them bloke, Thailand or Tasmania :-)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Made up an ally mounting plate for the circuit breaker this arvo. Rather than have it floating around and occasionally arcing out. Then ran a cable from this over to the lhs of the engine bay for the ARB twin compressor to run off.
Attachment 81673
Attachment 81674
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Spent the entire day yesterday do lecky stuff. Three hours fault finding as to why my spotties would not work. Turns out the loom plug on the new Narva switch was faulty, one of the female pins in the plug wasn’t right in so not contact was made, so I got the pliers out and pushed the pin right in. Beauty. Plugged it in and nothing still. So I swapped the loom to the light bar switch which was working. Nothing on that now. Huh. I looked inside the switch where the loom plug fits and it has bent the male
Pin where the pin had not gone into the socket right. Now on both switches.
I straighten the pins out but both switches still don’t work. Fuck it! Now I have two dead new switches.
Don’t like my chance of getting warranty on both switches now. We’ll see.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Finally cut the grille to fit. Looks alright I reckon.
Attachment 81678
Attachment 81679
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very sleek mate! Looks mint.
Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
Looks awesome Markie, pity we can't use em. . . Oh well at least they look good [emoji106] . .
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Looking great Mark,Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Can you tell me about this heat shrink mate? how did you shrink it in position? it has some kind of clamping capacity? I have never seen this.
Top job [emoji122][emoji122]
Sent from my CPH1979 using Tapatalk
It's primarily used for the silicone hose pictured. My work is the Australian distributor of the Flexfab branded silicone hose. So its a softer hose than your standard rubber, but much stronger and resistant to heat. Not real cheap stuff too. So the shrink clamp is perfect for silicone hose, you simply run a heat gun over is like you would with electrical heat shrink tubing, and it just shrinks down onto the hose. If used on rubber it won't be able to clamp down hard enough, but on silicone rubber its great. So far, so good, I've ran the motor to temp, let it cool over night and no leaks. Fingers crossed.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Made up a bracket for the solenoid. Nice spot for it.
Attachment 81681
Attachment 81683
Attachment 81684
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Got new switches today to replace the two dead ones. They work as they should. Now to get the dash back together...
Think I might order a new chrome grille too. The one I have is broken in so many places its nearly falling apart, and now I have cut sections out of it, its quite flimsy.
How this.
The conduit in the pic I put there and it runs down into the fire wall through a 1 inch hole so I could add more wires through. The last two spare wires I had in there were the yellow and green wires. Turns out when I was making the dash loom up for the winch in/ out switch I used yellow and green as my power out wires, totally forgetting about the two spare wires I had there. Nice!!!
Attachment 81685
Looking great Mark.
So much going on, I gotta catch up on all...
Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk