You saying you've lost your water tight seal lo
Have you been able to solve the coupling depth.??l
On the pic on post 394 Id cut that brass fitting in half that will give you 8-10mm
Plus cut the bung as suggested and that'll solve the problem IMO
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You saying you've lost your water tight seal lo
Have you been able to solve the coupling depth.??l
On the pic on post 394 Id cut that brass fitting in half that will give you 8-10mm
Plus cut the bung as suggested and that'll solve the problem IMO
More goodies !!!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/152.jpg
Tapatalked from S6
Geeze mate what's everyone going to get you for Christmas if you're getting everything now!! Lol
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forgot to tell you I have plenty of diff breather kits here , bummer
a lot cheaper too Id think
Are those yellow discs for the top of the coils???
Plenty of goodies from other people. This was a few of my own treats for my self! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Bacho86
It's ok I don't pay full price for these anyway. And yeah they are for the front coils but go under them. 10mm spacers. I need a bit of front uplift so it doesn't road sniff as much.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
How hard is it drop a spring enough to slide a spacer underneath without the spring compressor ? I just need enough to slide the spacer underneath...
Had a quick look before and might be interesting getting enough without taking too many components out.
Raise car from front diff and support on stands, undo the shocks top or bottom ??? Disconnect sway bars and pahard rod and slowly lower axle ??
The fronts are the hardest, and the springs may need a little manual help to remove.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
I never use spring compressors, and that may make it easier, but I found that if I disconnected all the bits you mentioned, I could then let the axle end down as far as possible on its own, and if that wasnt quite enough, I put my hydraulic jack in between the chassis and axle, and then by extending the jack, force the axle down further, and the spring pops out quite easy.
The other bonus with the OME spacers, is that they quieten down the springs when they twist a little under compression and extension and you dont get the usual Patrol boooiiing from the passenger corner . You will love them
Mic
Undo shocks. Unbolt manifold for brake lines off diff. Place chassis on stands. Undo sway bar from diff. Remove wheels. Lower diff as far as required.
Undo shocks at bottom easier to get at.
Thanks fellas !!!!
I'll have a go tomorrow. Just need a bit more up front, especially after winch was fitted.
I cheated a bit last time, when you jack it up to put the stands under the chassis, jack it up by the axle and compress the front spring a bit, then just put your spring compressor on and nip them up. Put your stands under the chassis and then lower the axle, the sprig is now held at a slightly shorter length, might save dissconnecting a heap of stuff. Especially if you're on;y looking for a bit to slip a spacer in.
Fitted the spacers today. Using rockets trick, compress the springs using the car/jack combo, clamp on coil clamps, then raise the chassis and drop axle. Bit fiddly but done the trick in the end. Really need to get a larger jack... But bits of timber for extra height helped .
Also while under there noticed a wet oil patch where engine and gearbox sandwich. Not dripping but definitely moist with oil. (pictures below). Rear main seal ??
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63484&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63483&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63482&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63486&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63485&stc=1
Nice work mate. Question though, the spacers I bought last time went on top of the springs?? Love the yellow by the way :)
The oil you refer to could also just be excess from removing the oil filters that slowly makes it's way down and around the back of the block. Mine actually has some foam in that gap around the bolt ends and it's fillted with oil. When I first saw the oil on mine I thought the worst, then I noticed how much worse it was after I successfully completed a messy oil change, I then felt much better.
Hmmm It's been about 2 and a half months since oil change what are the odds of some still lingering around that area lol.
As for the spacers, these are designed to go at the bottom. Fits perfectly around that rubber cup thingamajig sitting at the bottom of the spring on the seat.
Hmm, 2.5 months is a while. Clean it up and see how it goes.
A rear main will for the most part leak. Like leave a small puddle or at least quite a few drops on the ground. Oil can hang around very well. Usually a good degrease or soaking with brake cleaner after a service will help.
Cheers. Have degreased it before and will leave to try and monitor it. There were no drops of oil, on ground or on the car, that area , especially around that first wet bolt you can see was very moist in what looked like "fresh" batch of oil.
Will keep an eye on it.
So bit of an update to that "maybe" leak. I degreased it yesterday morning and it got rid of most of the oil / grease hanging around that spot. I'm sitting on 50/50 whether it's back or not.
It seems to be weeping ever ever so slightly from the points in red squares on the photo... On the photo inside the bottom red square you can see that seal ? Has opened up a little bit and a tiny bit as well around the top one too. Now to me those bolts/nuts look very very new. Something was done during previous ownership? Who knows.
It almost looks like they have been over tightened making nut cave that plate in a bit, thus lifting the bottom up a bit ??
Don't know maybe too much overthinking now. Will keep an eye out on it.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63512&stc=1
Also while under there I spotted a very badly corroded pump. This matches the state the underbody of the whole car was before it was sprayed. Should I go nuts with lanolin or something ????
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63513&stc=1
Pull the bung out which is smack bang in the middle of those 2 bolts. If oil comes out of there then it might be your resr main.
Is it that little tab with SA stamped on it or whatever? Just pulls out?Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
I'd be putting on a sperm suit and cranking up the Gernie and lay underneath
and give it a decent squirt then Lanotec /fish oil the begeesus out of it.
Why all the corrosion, is it a coastal vehicle? or mine?
The bloke I bought it off from SA used it lots for beach fishing etc...
This is what it looked like before the makeover. Most of everything was treated / sprayed with the POR15 chassis / paint / rust convertor. But under hood was mostly untouched. There are some signs of corossion, injector pump being one of them ...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63515&stc=1
Yeah it should. Its an interference fit but should come out. It tends to get siliconed in if anyone has ever done the clutch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Thanks again mate ! Will give it a go tomorrow. Just spoke to another bloke who used to have a 4.2TDi and he had similar circumstances. Supposedly there i something called "damper"sponge" sits between the gearbox and the engine ??? And MAY collect oil after changes and sit there for ages. I think this is what rocket was talking about ... Will suss it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Yours is missing the "sponge" you describe. Unless you have removed it for the pic you posted.
I see. I removed nothing. What you see in the photo is how I found it. I assumed it would have been sandwiched in there?Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Yes it would have been. Sometimes there is foam/sponge between the engine and the brackets that attach engine to bellhousing on the lower half.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
I guess when I pull that plug tomorrow I'll find out. Do you think I'll have to renew it or just shove it back in?
If oil ends up coming out, and assuming it is the rear main, how detrimental is it to get on top of it, providing that it wasn't dripping out / leaking big time. It is really just oil mist at this stage ... ?
I've been checking the oil weekly and have noticed no drop.
Just shove it back in. If your worried put some rtv on it prior to fitting.
I dont think it will be your rear main. On the slight chance it is just monitor it. As your not losing any oil I think it will be fine.
Oil is very good at finding places to hide. You can degrease then drive it and the heat thins the oil allowing it to seep out again. But if its not dripping I dont think you have a problem.
I wouldn't worry to much about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Weeping won't cause you any problems.
Just monitor the driveway for any drips over the next few weeks.
When my rear main went couple months back, it was all of a sudden and a very constant drip onto the ground - very noticeable. Yours looks good I comparison
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Ok tried to get the bung out Mat told me about, and struggled. As Mat mentioned maybe previous work got it silliconed in. Gave it a few goes and failed. Then it got too warm so I'll leave it for a cooler day. The oil/oil mist amount around that area hasn't changed or got worse.
Plugged the temp. sensor in finally yesterday. And I'm not really sure but my gauge doesn't go over 70C. That was the Max I've seen it. Just came back from a 25 minute drive, and it is already 32-33C, even with aircon on, didn't go above 70C. This is too good to be true so something is up.
Rod (Rocket) had similar max temps so. I don't know ...
My ECU Talk cable didn't arrive yet so I cannot compare the temps to my factory sensor yet...
is 70c your water temp,??
most gauges work with half gauge being normal
My secondary after market gauge reads 70 max. It sits between 67-70 when fully warmed up this morning.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
The max is way too low. So don't know if it's the gauge, or the sensor isn't in the right spot or not penetrating deep enough ... Will sort it out in the new year when it cools down a bit.
The factory gauge once again sits a few mm below half way mark and sits there not moving...
Its is probably ok hodge. The temps are fine and in the conditions your thermostat is most likely not having to open all the way. The thermostats temp setting can be very vague. Although they it could be a 76 degree one it could be 5-10 degrees out from that.
As long as the temps are stable and its not getting hot i think it will be fine.
Interested to know what degree thermostat your using.
Doesn't a thermostat begin to open when the water temperature gets to that degree.
Thanks Mat. I know it's fine and temps are low, I'm just puzzled why its showing 70 max. I mean surely this thing runs in the high 80s especially day like today. Hope the ECU talk cable arrives soon so that I can compare the pair.
I have no idea, I'm assuming it is the factory one ... Will find out when I gut the cooling system in the next few weeks and/or get the rear main done depending on the findings.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
If this is that low it is it too low?
Engines need to operate at an optimum temperature.
I believe so yeah, don't know what the optimum temps are, or minimum optimum running temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
I think it's something to do with the gauge / sensor. When it cools a bit later I'll pull the sensor out and teste in known water temps, backed up by 2 thermometers I have here.
I've did it with a portable stove on my old 4x4. Pot of water bringing it up to boil with eye on gauge and on thermometer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge