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Guys, maybe you are not running coils???? Anyway I have the vehicle booked in on Dec 11 with Dobinsons to sort out the right front coils and try to resolve the bump stop issue. I was looking at bump stops on ebay but think I may need to go down the track of adjustable hydraulic or the sorts - any input appreciated. Has anyone had issues similar to mine of thumping the sump against the diff housing?Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
Hi Peter, forgive me but it took me three days to read this thread in it's entirety and I can't remember when you had your conversion done, what sort of a time frame are you talking about in regards to this failure?Quote:
Originally Posted by peterc99
Cheers
Craig
Thanks heaps for the pictures and especially the reasoning why you did it.Quote:
Originally Posted by FNQGU
I wasn't particularly happy with the idea of putting the battery down under the vehicle when Scotty (BD) said they'd be putting it there, that coupled with the fact they said I also couldn't keep my current mandrel bent 3" exhaust because the battery needed to go there and now after reading here what their 3" exhaust systems are like.....
I'll keep mine and they can leave the battery out for me to fit when I get the vehicle back.
Cheers
Craig
This might help too.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...Turbo%20AR.jpg
G'day Phil, mine came from the west massive coils all round. Not sure what brand mate, just know they were the thickest I've ever seen. Now I'm running Firestone bag coil replacements in the rear and Ridepro coils in the front. Coil replacements in the front were too much mucking around for Vic roads as they want sensors as safety features etc... I'm gonna have to reassess my front coils now too with a new bar coming hopefully after Chrissy. Please do keep us posted with what Dobinson's reckon although yours is GQ and I think most of us posting here at the moment are heavier GU's. Cheers mate!Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
G'day Phil, photos are hard with angles and such, it looks like the bolt & nut from your dif shield hit it and pierced through maybe?Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
Yes, exactly, and the bolt body dented the pan itself. The stater motor hit the diff also and broke.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Dobinsons are going to drop the springs out and also measure the required bump stop length the stop the diff hitting the sump etc as part of the exercise - not sure where and how I go to resolve the bump stop issue but will have to listen and asses what theysay I guess - BD simply don't seem to have come across this issue - which is bizarre.. The coils we are looking at are 19mm dia wire with 50mm nominal lift. The coils recommended by one of their distributors on ebay has been dismissed. Still jousting with BD about the replacement faulty starter and who is going to fit it - I am totally over this at the moment. I will let you know where it ends for sure.
Also for the gas blowers like me.Quote:
Originally Posted by FNQGU
Like this, think I will be pinching this idea if the battery and box isn't too tall.
Behind the drawers I wouldn't worry about a box if it's a AGM or somethingQuote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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Hi Craig, the Chev engine was put in 2.5 years ago, but don't wait that long if your crossover pipe is close to the starter - better to wrap heat shielding (double wrap)around crossover pipe adjacent to the starter to prevent any future problems. This could have failed on our Madigan trip - would have been awkward.
Regards
Peter
Hi PBBIZ2 It may be worth checking the relay that operates the solenoid that BD fit on the driver side inner guard - I have replaced mine.
Regards
Peter
Hi all re exhaust turbine housing change to.63 - much better performance on the highway (since these engines rarely rev past 3000 there is no real problem with flow) Recent trip from NSW South Coast to Mansfield and onto 2 weeks in Victorian HC am very happy with .63 turbine.
Regards
Peter
Peter,Quote:
Originally Posted by peterc99
carton heading your way! Asked about this possibility, nope, forget it, can't happen! Famous last words, should have known. By luck i had a relay sitting around, swapped it over and bingo - so repeated 5 times and looking good. Many thanks as i was staring down the barrel of another starter motor installation, plus BD were about to send a new starter over from WA. I will let them know to put it on hold for the next week or so.
Many many thanks.
Phil
Hi PBBIZ2 an easy fix (hopefully) happy to be of help.
Regards
Peter
Peter, back at square 1, replacement relay also started the same intermittent tricks, so swapped out a third, this time an 80amp unit just to confirm it wasn't a contact issue, and the starter is still reacting the same way, so its the starter motor for sure. I am waiting from one being sent from WA - on TOLL, supposed to arrive friday but didn't. Anyway, I am glad I totally excluded the relay. BD are also sending across a replacement sump kit later this week. Can't fault the service to be frank and they are standing up and taking responsibility for the issues without any pushback.
TOLL are the slackest transport company that I have ever had to use. I instructed Brunswick not to use them for shipping anything to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
I was waiting on a seal that Scotty sent, only to find that the TOLL courier had not only delivered it to the wrong house number, but the wrong street, then I get a card in my mail box stating that they could not deliver because no one was home...
What a load of crock.
Every time I have something transported by TOLL I always have had issues.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Off topic, apologies Gents :-)
I'm still absolutely stoked in my 6.5 twactor ;-)
In fact reckon I have also proven their 'Inertia' capabilities recently to a stock LandCruiser neighbour mate. 1st gear only 2WH near walking beside it together @ under 500rpm up our steep conjoining paddocks proved it for him, lol :-)
BD advised the starter had been delivered to my work at 11am on friday. Nope, not there, anywhere. I will admit that every other delivery from BD has been overnight without fail. Might be this one is a bit heavier? Anyway, mentally I wasn't up to swapping out the starter again this week after the disappointment, so this week will be better - sort of.Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
Get the Conn note number and put it up TOLL... they may have delivered it the company next door :)Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Starter direct shipped from supplier. No contact name on parcel, so it has been carted around to 20 different locations and finally ended up at reception. I tell ya, I am over this lack of detail and the long path i have to travel with this car.Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
I chased down some details on the installed springs with the manufacturer and they are aghast they were put into this vehicle. They should have been 100kg rated but 50kg coils were actually installed. I am struggling with trust right now.
Hi Rainsey,Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
Was your old ZD30 dead? I'm guessing that was the reason you didn't trade it in to BD?
Cheers
Craig
Not quite dead.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ropes
For years I have been bitching about the pathetic towing capability of the ZD30. Feb this year I was on holidays and was driving up from Margaret River and noticed that Brunswick was on my way to Perth so I dropped in. Greg was fantastic, so much so the wife was almost ready to do the conversion then and there.
I started researching other options, Duramax, Turbo upgrades and the likes, and got the run around.
My trip over to WA from the east side this year I was driving by the gauges, predominantly the engine temp and the EGT. I hated it. I had a chronic over heating issue that cost me a grand in Perth for a new radiator, but I was still struggling with my EGT's.
About 4 months ago, I started having coolant being pushed out which turned was diagnosed as either a head gasket or a cracked head. I needed a new clutch, potentially a new head and the labour to fix, and then I still had a ZD30 that could not tow.
I opted to go the Optimiser 6.5. Shipped over to BD and shipped back. As per my original post the ZD 30 got taken down to Simms Metal, I could not bother to even strip it down.
Why did I not trade it in, because BD has a shite loads of good ZD30's and had no need for a suspect one.
BD I think have a warehouse of ZD 30's being that this is the most common upgrade.
Cheers
Rainsey
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Thanks for the in depth response, I know the feeling of watching gauges on a long trip, having just returned from a 4 month trip myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
Similar problems as you, just a different order, head gasket a few months before the trip, so I replaced the head as well.
Then the radiator two weeks into our trip when we reached Cairns.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...513_083951.jpg
Other than that the reason I'm going to have a 6.5 installed is for better towing ability and reliability.
My mate Pete and I went for a drive down to BD last week, Scotty took us for a tour through their workshop, answered all our questions, then he took us for a test drive in a recently converted Patrol and we were sold.
So if all goes to plan there'll be a new heartbeat fitted in mid February next year.
Thanks to everyone here I've already changed a couple of things in my quote, so if there's anything else you would have done but didn't or did and wished you hadn't please feel free to let me know.
Cheers
Craig
Craig,Quote:
Originally Posted by Ropes
The only thing that I should have done at the time was to get BD to put in a cruise control. With the new diff gearing as part of the install and the extra torque, when i hit the freeway now I never get out of 5th gear. Sort of gets a bit boring on the right foot for long distances.
I only met Greg when I was over there but since then, in sorting out an oil leak issue, I have been dealing with Scotty. I am hanging out to meet him in person, sounds like an absolute character over the phone.
I had some teething issues but BD have busted their guts to sort them out without question.
2 things I can be a critic of the whole install was the exhaust and the air inlet. I had a end to end mandrel bent exhaust on the ZD30. What BD install is a relatively cheap 3" system that in some places are bent down to probably under 2 inches on some of the bends. Also the pipe that goes between exhaust manifold is tiny. When I have to replace it I will be going to some one like Beaudesert to get a quality exhaust custom made.
Re the inlet, I have a standard Safari snorkel and my engine at times sounds like it is absolutely starving for air. Under load I get a substantive sucking sound. I have my eyes on a Milweld 4" snorkel to alleviate this issue.
All in all I am over the moon with the quality of the work, the after instal support and the drive of the vehicle. One of the chaps on the Patrol 4x4 forum I spoke to prior to committing to the install stated to me that he did not know why it took him so long to get rid of the ZD30. I now totally agree with his summation.
Kindest regards
Rainsey
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Not wanting to dampen your enthusiasm, but when I had mine done, I was extremely disappointed with the additional electrical work, both with the fridge socket that I asked for in the cargo bay, and with the cruise control. Both were shoddy in the extreme and had to be ripped out and rectified. The fridge wiring was done with a scotch type connector and took me ages to find the issue. The cruise control wire was crimped on with a yellow crimp terminal to the fuel pump like a 5 year-old had done it. This broke on me in the middle of no-where as of course they tend to do. If you get any sort of extra electrical work done, then from my personal experience, I would have it checked over thoroughly, or just done elsewhere by someone you trust.
Agree with Rainsey on the exhaust too. I was assured it was a quality 3 inch system, and when I saw the restrictions I was also disappointed.
There was also another issue I had with the exhaust rubbing to the point it wore through the wrap they had put on it. This was on the passengers side, off the engine. I don't have any pictures unfortunately, sorry, but watch for clearances when the engine is given a bootful and twists on its mounts.
My airbox also leaked around the base and I had to sikaflex it up for a proper seal and I had the Viscous Hub shit itself right on the 2 year mark.
The final gripe I had was that I cracked the starter motor badly when bottoming out on some dunes in the Simpson and had to replace it with a new one. This was due to suspension setup straight from BD, so keep a close eye on your starter for any signs of wear marks due to bottoming out. Speaking of which, I had to change our all four coil springs to heavier duty versions due to the amount of sag over 2 years so pay attention to your weights and spring choices and don't just leave it to BD to do it for you.
Also - ask where the bloody catch can is going to be fitted, and make sure you are happy you can easily access the drain. Mine was fitted almost dead centre on the rear firewall and was a PITA to get to, especially if you wanted to remove the BS bit of steel wool or scotch pad crap that was stuck in the guts of it as a so-called filter. Ask for an extension tube to be fitted with an easy to access tap, or at least be satisfied with what you see you are getting. Better yet - specifiy a catch can you know works properly.
Sorry, I'm not a fan of BD, but maybe they have picked up their game, or maybe it was the individual who did the job on my truck, I don't know but it took me a lot of extra time and effort to sort mine out. I hope your experience works out better than mine did.
Thanks guys,
I can confirm that Scotty is a great character, with a wealth of knowledge to share who has been with Greg from the start.
After a lot of research, (read as weeding through the 3rd and 4th hand info) there are a few things I will/will not be doing.
1. I've had a cruise control since I bought this car and won't be without one for touring now, so that will be getting done but not by them.
2. I currently have a mandrel bent Manta 3" exhaust, which Scotty originally said couldn't stay because they need to relocate the Aux battery down underneath the car and they have to redesign an exhaust to fit in with that. I wasn't overly happy with the thought of the battery being down there for several reasons, cheers FNQGU [IMG]file://localhost/Users/Smee/Library/Group%20Containers/UBF8T346G9.Office/msoclip1/01/clip_image001.gif[/IMG] for providing proof supporting one of those reasons (heat). My exhaust is now staying and Greg has said they can plumb into that and I'll be moving the Aux battery into the drawer system myself, as illustrated by FNQGU.
3. They only electrical work that they will be doing is what's needed for the engine conversion, I'll be doing everything else myself.
4. They still fit the catch can in the same place but now they plumb in a drain line with a valve down to the chassis rail near the sump, I do have the provent fitted atm although due to its size I'm not sure if that can be used.
5. My springs are all HD and due for a change soon anyway, so I'll keep an eye on the sag etc.
6. I have the benefit of living only 1.5hrs away, so I'll be down there every other day keeping an eye on their progress.
Another thing that I will be getting done at the same time is the hydraulic brake upgrade, mainly to save time mucking around with engineering certification etc.
Has anyone else done this?
Cheers
Craig
Craig,
Re the catch can, just take what they give you and change it if it does not suit. I have a great HPD unit that I am going to swap around when I get time. The catchcan they supply is pretty basic as is its filtering, but what the heck, the fact that they put one on standard is in my books a good thing.
Re the hydraulic brake booster, bugger me I am jealous. I asked Greg about them a month or so back and he knew nothing about them. If it is Marks Adapters unit it looks fantastic.
When you get it in please keep me updated as to how it goes as for what, around $1200, it is supposed to double your brake performance. You also need the stainless brake lines as well to cater for the extra pressure.
I have had my finger hovering over the purchase now button for months. Ill take it away until I hear back from you.
Re the electrics, yes I do tend to agree as the initial issue I had on receipt of my truck was silly things like earth lines not re connected and the main power cable from the battery to the fuse block only being finger tight, which subsequently vibrated even looser. Greg was ready to ship me a new alternator before I figured this out.
Kindest regards
Rainsey
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Craig,
I have just taken delivery of my GQ with the n/a optimiser engine. There were a couple of minor things with the finish but nothing to harp on about. I unfortunately experienced a couple of failures due to incorrect springs being installed, however despite it raising the blood pressure, BD have taken the load and replaced the components without hesitation. Couple of points worth mentioning to improve your outcome
1) I would keep the scope of work as 'standard' as possible. Variation from the typical conversion takes time and in my case didn't end well.
2) when you get your quote, make sure it includes EVERYTHING' required for the conversion. I ended up with a list of replacement parts that really should have been disclosed at the time of the quote, so the price went up. I don't dispute the need, more the delayed disclosure of parts for what has been done many many times - stuff like power steering pump upgrade from 2.8 to 4.2, power clutch booster, upgraded alternator, front springs to name a few.
3) I think the gvm upgrade is a lot easier in WA than to get than over here and I am having all sorts of dramas getting the WA certification recognised - in fact its likely the cost is going to be refunded for this and it will cost 2-3 times what BD charged me - Vicroads are painful.
4) Check those front springs - and make sure they are at least what are termed 100kg rated coils (somewhere around the 19mm dia it looks). Unfortunately mine was fitted with 50kg units with serious consequences. I put this down to a simple error to be honest or a mix up at BD with their stocks. The ones currently in mine are being upgraded on monday - happy to share the final selection, however performance is something I will have to delay comment on. Also, make a point of getting BD to guarantee the front bump stops are configured to 100% not allow contact with the sump or the starter motor - they simply need to drop the coils out and pivot the bump diff upwards to a point where a mechanical stop can be determined. Don't trust the rubber bump stops to protect you - you need a block of steel/plastic to provide the travel restriction. Your typical driving might be different to mine, but rutted steep and shagged tracks are the norm here as against miles and miles of long haul and corrugations. This is another thing happening on monday - I punched a hole in the sump and smashed the tiebar off the starter. If you mention these points , Scotty and his crw will address them - I was caught out with wrong springs, so here is the lesson I guess.
Anyway, I love the grunt, coming from a 2.8TD and the torque is great. I think the conversion is worth the coin and have faith in BD regards their build quality.
Wow,
I must have had a dream run.
The quote I got from Greg was totally itemised and the only thing that was a variation was the amount of cabling I had going up the left side of my ZD30 which interfered with the exhaust. It took his sparky a whole day to reroute so I took that one on the chin.
I got my GVM upgrade at the time of the engine install. The paper work installed was supplied to the NSW based engineer and he happily transferred it over to his engineering report. To be honest, engineering was my biggest phobia and it turned out to be the easiest!
With regards to the GVM, I already had the request requirements, tower bridge, 400KG rated springs and so on ( the springs and shocks were OME) so the GVM upgrade was a no brainer. Hearing you chaps talk of 100Kg springs sort of scares me.
When I questioned BD over engineering they referred me to a NSW engineer that I spoke to before committing. He was totally aware of the BD work and when I rolled up he had no issues with the mods and GVM upgrade. After 28 odd years of doing this it amazes me that BD don't have the equivalent VIC engineer that is in total understanding of the upgrade process.
Kindest regards
Rainsey
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It amazes me that after 28 odd years of doing the same thing using out of date engines that there are still issues. :)
People change, parts manufacturers change, rules change, vehicles change. Reverting to 'electronic free engines' isn't really a step backwards, just makes them simpler. The optimiser is a brand new block design with tried and tested old school parts. Works for me because I can fix it. What is of concern is the detail bits that either get overlooked or ignored. Stuff like overheating is always going to be a problem due to avail radiator size and a large block jammed in a shoe box, so the owner has to compromise and accept the shortfalls for owning something different I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Do they use the newer injector pumps yet? (DS -4 ) Last I spoke to them they just put them in the corner and used the older type which isnt as good. (DB-2 ).
I don't know.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
DB-2 mechanical Matty BD are scared of any thing electronic lolQuote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Yep, my plan was to see how the one they install performs and go from there.Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
Close, $1,540 when you include the braided lines, which I think you'd be crazy not to do. You must have instigated Greg to do some research because I rang and asked him what power steering pump they install with the Optimizer about three weeks ago and he suggested doing it all at once would be the best plan so as to get it all engineered at the same time.Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
Unfortunately for them, I am an Electrical Technician by trade and will make a point of crawling over every inch of the install before they get all of my hard earned :PQuote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
Cheers
Craig
I'm interested in why BD were changing your springs in the first place?Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
Was it to do with your GVM upgrade? Maybe a GQ thing?
They only thing non standard I'll have them doing is the hydo brake upgrade and even that will only be in the engine bay, I'll have already installed the brake lines and new pads before I drop the vehicle off.Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
I'll be installing the cruise control when I get the car back, I only have to make sure the correct bracket is fitted when I pick it up.
This is not my quote but it was based on this, the pamphlet they were handing out at the recent Perth 4WD Show.Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...208_133948.jpg
I consider that fairly comprehensive.
That's a bummer and here I was thinking that WA was the nanny state :PQuote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
Nope, similar driving, it's definitely not a shopping trolley.Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...U/Misc/Now.jpg
Cheers
Craig
PM sent Craig
Here are another couple of pics for you. I found a little earthing issue when I pulled my thermostats trying to work out why my engine ran hot. This had nothing to do with it, but you may want to check yours... I had to buy a new housing and added an earth wire to prevent it from re-occurring.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbmmajssv.jpg
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps3cmxevas.jpg
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...pstoomsn6l.jpg
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...pshlah5kzl.jpg
Where did you run the earth wire from and to where- direct to battery?
That looks a lot like a mix of different coolants to meQuote:
Originally Posted by FNQGU