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If the black hose was kinked, it could have reduced the vacuum to the turbo actuator, which would have reduced you’re boost. It wouldn’t have been done on purpose.
Personally, I’m not a fan of using silicon hose on the pressure side also because it has a tendency to expand and delay the boost signal to the Dawes and your boost gauge. Better to use some pressure hose on that side, but ok to use silicon on the vacuum side.
nah that ok mate. i unkinked that hose the day i got the dawes installed. that was a few weeks ago now. So it really has nothing to do with whats happening now.
Ill stick to this forum now i realise your the bloke replying on the other aswell hahaha.
My boost gauge does not go through my dawes valve at all.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/
thats where my boost gauge is connected. from there the boost tube goes to the gauge.
As for looking at the turbo actuator arm and stop screw when setting the needle valve up, do i need to take the heat shield of? hope not lol
So ill try what you said tomorrow. If that works do i need a needle valve?
I just dont understand how i had plenty of boost one day to almost nothing the next
Yeh, I just realized that too…..haha. It was easy for you... at least I have the same name…lol!
Hopefully, you shouldn’t need to adjust the stop screw on the turbo actuator arm. In some cases it is necessary to help with slowing the spool rate and eliminating the spike, but not always and yes, you will need to remove the heat shield to do it. It can be a real pain to do at times depending on what other accessories are fitted etc.
Sorry, I thought the red silicon hose from the tee at the bottom of the Dawes went to the gauge………… is that for the diesel Gas?
You really should look at fitting a needle valve even if you leave it in the engine bay and set and forget it. It will give you the ability to fine tune which you don’t have now other than setting your maximum boost.
If you had more boost initially than you have now, either the Dawes valve is leaking slightly or you’re loosing vacuum somewhere. Check the vacuum hoses, particularly the old ones for cracks or splits. Ideally, check the vacuum line with a vacuum gauge. You should have between 26 and 30”Hg at idle.
i have Diesel gas, so yeah i guess that hose could be that. I havnt really looked mate. I didnt install it.
Damn it. i got the pyro installed at the exhaust shop because i didnt want to take the heat shield of :(
Ok so tomorrow im disconnecting the pipe that goes over the engine from the solanoid. and im disconnecting the black pipe that connects to my dawes, and replacing it with the one i took off the sonanoid? is that correct? hahaha bloody confusing.
Not too confusing, you got it right. Let us know how it goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
Hey Chaz
i did what you said to do mate. It felt like i had alot more power, But i still had the same amount of boost. Only about 4-5psi sitting on about 2000rpm. where i used to get about 12-13psi.
I am unsure as to why im only getting 4-5psi boost all of a sudden. :(
Edit: I just put it back to how it was and took it for another drive. Now unless my foot is flat on the accelerator i get no boost at all.
DOING MY HEAD IN!!!!
Ok, then you have a problem. Either you have a vacuum leak on the vacuum side, a pressure leak in the Dawes valve or a boost gauge leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
I would start by checking the vacuum line at the hose coming across the engine. It should have 26 to 30”Hg at idle. If you don’t have a vacuum gauge, then go to a mechanic and get it checked. If that’s ok, then hook the vacuum line back up and check again by pulling the hose off the turbo and check the vacuum at that hose. It should be the same as you have at the vacuum line, but if its much lower, your Dawes valve is leaking. If that’s ok and the actuator arm is lifting all the way up, then chances are that you’re gauge is leaking and reading incorrectly low.
If you have good power and no boost reading on the gauge, I'd suspect the gauge. You'll know when you have no boost because there will be massive turbo lag.
I dont think it will be the gauge. The car seems to have alot less power than usual,which makes me think there is a mechanical issue. And can usually hear the trurbo winding when accelerating, i cant hear that now. And looking down at the Actuator when i start the car, i can not see anything move from a distance down there.
By vaccumm leak on either side you mean either side of the dawes valve?
One side of the Dawes valve has pressure (boost) and the other side vacuum. The side with the 2 outlets should have vacuum.
If the actuator arm isn’t moving up when you start the car, then you definitely have a vacuum leak somewhere, but it could still be in the Dawes valve.
Open the Dawes valve and make sure there isn’t anything holding the ball off it’s seat. Don’t undo it where the red sealant is, just unscrew the knurled end and be careful that the spring doesn’t shoot off and get lost. Even a tiny bit of debris could hold the ball up and create a leak which will send any boost that you make into the vacuum line so it won’t be able to increase boost.
Blow it out and m,ake sure that it's clean, put it back and see if that solves the problem.
If that doesn't fix it, one of your hoses is broken, kinked or split.
Personally, I've never had this happen to me, but I have seen it happen a few times to others.
ok mate. Ill have to give that a go tomorrow after work. i have checked over the hoses and cant see any cracks,splits or anything. And couldnt hear any leaks when the car was idling.
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/1...adjustment.jpg
All that is visible with the heat shield still on isnt it. hahaha just to make sure im look at the right bit (im sure i am) :)
what bit needs to move? it looks like the actuator and the arm is the same part???
sorry if these are silly questions. But im learning heaps about my car the more stupid questions i ask