Exactly why I don't play in the mud. My mechanic degreases my truck before he'll service it, and charge accordingly. lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by dads tractor
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Exactly why I don't play in the mud. My mechanic degreases my truck before he'll service it, and charge accordingly. lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by dads tractor
DX its a bitch when the young fella broke up with his fiancée and has to go and work 200k's from home and deal with the shite but he was civil and just left so his parting words were can you clean it for me PLEASE DAD .
I know what my answer would be. You are a sucker.Quote:
Originally Posted by dads tractor
[QUOTE=TPC;535358]I know what my answer would be. You are a sucker.[/QUOTE ] maybe tpc but I'm not letting a new 57k patrol rot for the sake of a women or a wash .
I have strict cleaning schedule......Quote:
Originally Posted by dads tractor
Strictly bugger all! Haha
Had the windows tinted..
Removed the intake manifold from my zd30 for a replacement :thumbup:
Cv cv and more cv
Replaced with just another ZD manifold? Or something special? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by big_fletch
Nearly fixed my TJM OX winch. I had this brainy idea to service the thing a few weeks back. Removed it from the bar, and took the rubber boots off where the cables go to the motor. Rusted to the motor bolts ( I suppose you call them) like you would not believe. Touched the first nut with the spanner and snapped it off. Tried the next bolt and it spun around about half a turn and would go any further. So I got the Dremel out and cut the nuts of so I could remove the leads to the motor. Opened the motor housing up and the copper wire on the back of one bolt had come right off and there was also another copper connector inside there that had also come off due to me trying to undo the bolts. UGH!
I rang about 20 auto elecs and motor rewinding joints to see if I could get these bolts replaced and re-soldered back on. No one would touch it. Most said normal solder wont hold because of the heat the motor will produce. Plus getting copper to stick to steel was near impossible. So out came the Google search engine and found a solution in 10 minutes. Went to my local shop and got some Hi temp silver solder (480c melting point) and some flux and I was on my way. I had some bolts already at home and I did it...wOOt!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=48839&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=48840&stc=1
Got the motor back together, now the cleaning of the gearbox side. Bit of rust on the outside large outer gear that slides in and out of the housing to engage and disengage. No problems there, a bit of wet an dry and new grease will fix it.
whats the best grease to repack the gears with?
Castrol LMM grease is what I have used Mark.
Make sure you silicone it all up when you put it back together and I added a breather to the motor casing to further help prevent water ingress.
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Thanks Drew, I though about using LMM but its not water proof and if any water does manage to get in there... But a Lithium base grease is probably what I need, because of the extreme pressure in the gears. I think I have some Lithium based water proof grease somewhere in the garage....
Nah just another standard one, except this one is all clean and shiny.. Not half blocked with carbon lolQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
When I change my air filter, I noticed the sealing gasket on the snorkel between the air box and panel was broken and come off.
Is at Nissan today having it fixed under warranty.
You reckon they will just fill it up with silicone Mick? Or actually do the job properly?
why don't you run an air line to it so its pressurized for water crossing, only need an old air horn compressorQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
A lot of comp guys do this. easy as to do
Used that hi temp silver solder 2% all the time when I worked at the motor rewind place.
Also put a texta mark on my Dawes Valve, and have documented positions and boost/ spool figures.
Hoping to grab a few extra PSI to get the EGTs lower
I had an extra earth strap put on the long ranger sub tank as suggested by Nissan to fix my transfer issues and it did diddly squat.
Needs to go back again to rectify the problem.
Also got a Redarc 20A in-vehicle 3 stage BC/DC 12v battery charger, and the isolator removed.
To rectify my aux battery charging capacity.
Also an external Anderson plug to keep battery on charge when not in use without opening the hood.
Was found my aux battery tested ok but the main battery was kaput.
Will need to perhaps change aux battery to main and look at maybe an Optima yellow top for the Aux battery.
Not sure yet if I can change it round as the terminals are opposite way around.
All in all, happy with today but was really hoping for a sub tank that transfers fuel.
You probably already have considered this and I don't know your circumstances, but I reckon you want to carefully weigh up your Aux battery use before choosing a Yellow Top. Yes they are an all-rounder, and if you parallel them to your start battery a lot, then probably a good choice, but there are much better dedicated Aux batteries around depending on need. A/Hrs is not overly high on the Optima range. We use the Yellow Tops a lot at work and they are great, but not for longer term Aux loads like fridges and lights etc... Just a thought.
Had the patrol serviced after the Simpson trip, had to get a couple of brackets welded back on where they cracked and new sway bar links due to the old ones falling off they were that flogged out and the gear stick bushes replaced to reduce the slop, off this weekend to the Blackwood river :)
finally replaced my tyre i blew at camerons corner, picked up a replacement from a mate brand new for $150 hankook 33" AT. I have been a bit slack getting things back to spec after the big simpson trip but we are back on track now.
@ Mego bear in mind battery places are trying to avoid putting Sealed batteries under the bonnet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Why is that?? Due to the heat?
Next time you undo these nuts, use a couple nuts and lock them at the top of the thread. You can then use a spanner to stop the stud spinning and dragging the copper and insulators with them when you undo the bottom nut.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Yes ARB told me the same thing, and his got one under his hood for the past 4 yrs.Quote:
Originally Posted by lhurley
The bolts only spun because the amount of rust on them. Two of the bolts, the hex on the nuts were completely gone just from corrosion. Just need to find some new boots and I will cover the crap out of them in dielectric grease so they won't rust again.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Finally managed to fit this garbage from MCC. What a rubbish product!
The saga deserves it own build thread for sure....
The absolute piece of chit. Don't buy anything from those cretins!
Regards
I'm assuming you mean the rear bar.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
What was the problem. Not fitting correctly. What's happened.
Whos MCC mate? got a link?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
http://www.mcc4x4.com/Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
I think one of the Queensland lads (maybe Megatexture) had an MCC Rear bar fail....has to be replaced or repaired I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
I've not heard anything particularly complimentary about them.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MEGOMONSTER
Where do I start?
The finish is absolute rubbish, like being build by 1st year apprentice. Out of shape, bent, incorrect or outright dodgy hardware supplied, like you need M14 bolts they supply M12, 5/8 bolts have M20 flat washers, 8 mm holes drilled for ally checker plate didn't get holes right so they used M6 bolts with M8 flat washers instead. WTF!
Even the castle nuts for carrier swing arms are out of shape, had to use fencing wire instead of split pins...
Locking pin is missing adjusting nut, pivot is welded crooked so the arm won't align with the locking hole....
Welding spatter powder coated in no worries. The worse think is that bar just wouldn't fit without enlarging the mounting holes way too large so it starts to affect the tensile strength of the brackets.
Those tiny flat washer they supplied bent like banana when just standard ratchet was used, I had to manufacture new washers/spacers out of 10 mm steel plate as the M14x1.5 bolts go all the way to 200 Nm.
Utter Taiwanese/Chinese rubbish.
Keep clear of those dodgy crunts.
Regards
Now I understand these comments.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
Decided 2 take the rear tire off that had gone down 1 few weeks after parking it up over a year ago *L*
Found a screw, removed and plugged. Good as new :)
Sorry about your dramas but I have one and have had no problems whatsoever, even did 8500 k's on the recent Simpson trip too!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
If I had a coin for every time I heard angry words towards these guys, I'd be owning a Y62 by now... They have a local store here, which is always deserted, I walked in once when they opened up, and got NO service at all. I was gonna check out the rear bar too. Am now staying way clear thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
Did you fit it yourself or had someone else do it? Because once fitted and quality issues hidden you unlikely to notice the dramas unless there is a difference between early/late Patrol fits, I'm sure for 05 and later Patrols the fit is just an abomination.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stropp
Indeed it was a few encouraging posts about MCC bars which swayed me towards it from next contender Raslaar which was more expensive but also had quality issues and no jacking points.
Regards
Pulled my winch apart again. Seems the grease I used is, well, too good for use in a winch. I used a red ultra tack grease used for earthmoving machines. Sticks better than chit to a blanket this stuff. But even not over packing the gears with grease it's way to tacky and the outer hub struggles to slide in the housing. As a waterproof grease I need to use I might try the good old Castrol APXT grease I have here. Now to clean out this red grease from the gears.
had it fitted as part of the deal but i have been under it a few times and looks to be no issues, i did strengthen the mounts by welding two pieces of angle iron so the weight of the 35"s didnt make it sag under constant corrogations, it has taken quite a few knocks but its still good.
Attachment 49075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
Now you need to put a wide load sign on the back just for the tyres...Lol.
Modified my spare set of front shock mounts and installed them along with a new pair of superior medium springs