G'day folks,
Finally put my GU TD 42 Diesel Patrol's suspension back to stock and removed my winch. Almost ready for sale.
Regards,
PMC
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G'day folks,
Finally put my GU TD 42 Diesel Patrol's suspension back to stock and removed my winch. Almost ready for sale.
Regards,
PMC
What are you going to buy when the 'Trol is gone Paul?
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
............
Dodge RAM 3500 Dually with a 6.7 Cummins, Allison 6sp ATQuote:
Originally Posted by Drewboyaus
lol
G'day mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewboyaus
I am currently looking for a TI auto 4.8 duel fuel Patrol. Due to my wife is only confident in driving a auto Patrol.
I got a quote a couple of months ago from wholesale automotive in Victoria, to convert my GU 4.2 turbo diesel from a manual to a auto and it was going to cost me between $5,000 and $6,000 dollars.
I can buy a 2006 TI duel fuel for between $20,000 and $24,000 dollars. It is not worth over capitalising on a 2001 GU 4.2 turbo diesel wagon by the cost quoted.
I have driven two 4.8 auto petrol GU wagons over the last 4 weeks and I cannot get over the power these things produce.
Some folks are currently spending between $10,000 and $20,000 to increase there power out-put to try and gain 200kw in a 4.2 turbo diesel configaration. When the 4.8 petrol has already close to those figures.
Over the last 20 years, I have owned two GU 4.2 turbo diesel wagons, two GQ 4.2 turbo diesel wagons and two GQ 4.2 fuel injected petrol GQ wagons. I had more fun with my petrol Patrols than I have with my diesel Patrols.
My servicing costs over the years with the petrol engines were 3/4rds the cost of the diesel engines. After balancing servicing and fuel costs both engines come out equal, however, the power out-put of the petrol motors are far more superior than the diesels.
The 4.8 petrol engine is a very powerful motor, you do not need to modify it has it has more power than a highly modified 4.2 turbo diesel.
Lets remember that there is a lot of 4.2 diesel folks out there spending a small fortune just to get the same power out-put figures of the 4.8 petrol engine. I know has I was one of those folks.
As previously stated above, some folks are spending between, $10,000 and $20,000 thousand dollars just to modify their 4.2 diesel engines, just to get the same power out-put figures of the 4.8. To me this is not good economics in my book.
Especially when you can buy a 2006 to 2009 model 4.8 auto TI or STL wagon with the average of between 125,000 to 190,000ks on the clock for the same price as a 2000 or 2002 4.2 turbo diesel DX or ST model wagon with the average of between 275,000 to 450,000ks on the clock.
PS, looking forward to my next GU 4.8 auto wagon rebuild project. Please remember this is only my opinion!
Kind regards,
PMC
I have to agree with PMC logically with a little OS insight or opinion. Doing a cost benefit analysis on diesel versus petrol (gasoline) in the USA for a number of years most of the big three charge a hefty premium for the addition of the diesel option, in the range of $7-8K more than a petrol model. When petrol (gas) was cheaper than it is now it and I was looking at trucks (UTE's) it took a heck of a lot of miles to compensate for the uplift when gas was $2.89 and diesel was $2.25 a US (standard) gallon .. tens if not a hundred of thousand of miles before you broke even with the same towing/loading capacity.
My first Patrol was a dual fuel 4.8, I sold it but there was nothing wrong with it other than where I live, there is no gas (LPG) within 20k's and it's in the opposite direction of where I would ever go. It was an ST-L, Navy Blue and Black leather == HOT !! just about anytime of the year.
Basically I like the 'sound' of a diesel and took loads of crap when we bought our first new car a '79 VW Diesel Rabbit (Golf) GL ... darn thing got 45-50 mpg and that's when fuel was $0.48 a gallon and petrol was $0.89 ...
Fiscally doing all the upgrades to the 4.2 would buy many liters of petrol (gasoline).. but I like owning a 'D'. ..
lol
Any of the td42 bits for sale Paul? :)
Attached the side and rear rails for roof rack (pile more crap on)
Attachment 47375Attachment 47376
Then mounted side awing 2.5 length, 2.0 width
Attachment 47377
Actually, moving to 'Storage' and 'Great Outdoors' to post a number of project updates ..
Just pulled all my barwork off and bloody hell it is heavy crap... all ARB bar and side steps with scrub bars I wonder what it all weighs ?
The bullbar is all undone but too heavy for me to move by myself with my back... need to cut a section out and weld another in and also thinking should I cut that piece off for the old roller fair lead?
Keeping busy while waiting....
I thought the rails were front and sides :) That's how Rhino always show them, and I figured its more for stopping your load sliding forward under heavy braking. I see you have the almighty 4.2 so that could be why you went the rail at the rear for all the hard accelerations ;) In all seriousness though how do you find the pioneer tray gear? I've got the heavy duty roof bars and am contemplating getting a pioneer rack. Also is your awning mounted to the heavy duty bars or the actual pioneer tray?Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskyInAuz
Today for me I finally re-installed my aux battery in it's proper spot, and made a heat shield out of that supercheap stuff.
Get some small heat shrink and put it on :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DX grunt
Picked it up from the mechanic and got my old transfer so I can check it out and see if I can work out what the issue was with it also so I have a spare incase I want reduction gears in the future but I'm thinking I'd rather do the diff ratios
So your coming sunday then?Quote:
Originally Posted by megatexture
I'll be working on the car dent pulling, fitting sliders and welding on brush bars ..... Hopefully get most of it done
I'd love to but not ready ATM
Fitted new rubber bumpers on my tjm bullbar. I am surprised how flimsy the mounting system is and how easy it is to overtension the screw and damage the rubber. I also bought this compressor - 25% off at repco - I deflated my spare completely and inflated it to 50psi in about 2 minutes. I will do a more comprehensive inflation test later
Had the apprentice check the tyres! Attachment 47622
Only got it to primer stage so not as far as I hoped but it's still moving forward
Fitted some USB power outlets to all passenger doors.
Attachment 48345
Attachment 48343Attachment 48344
Brilliant idea :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Now to add to that ever growing to do list.
I know what you mean Jay, I'm already looking for the next project and I only just finished this one.
Well just got home from a day at Kryal Castle with my wife and children. The kids loved it and it was great to be out as a family
I haven't been there since I was a little tacker with my parents.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
I set up the full monty with the annex and awning.
Now I gotta rename all the poles. Took me double the time to sort out which pole goes where.
Got locked up at Bunratty castle years ago for perving on the beer wenches, Dirty Dicks was great fun tooQuote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Finally got the car cleaned after the Simpson trip :Yahoo!:
Are you serious!Quote:
Originally Posted by Stropp
crawled out of bed and decided to rotate the old girls shoes(tyres)
Put a set of 285/75r16 Maxtrek Mud Trac on my pride and joy for $200 a piece fitted and fitted manual hubs Attachment 48399
very nice and why u go back to manual hubs for chubba
Looks good Chubba..........but the hubs upside down maannnnQuote:
Originally Posted by Chubba
How much were the manual hubs and how easy was it changing them?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chubba
One of the original auto hubs had cracked so I had to replace either way and I believe the manual hubs are stronger so a quick look around for a pair of hubs at $185 and I was sold. Not too much messing around to put them in. my brother and I did it in an afternoon slowly working out how they went together.Quote:
Originally Posted by skippy201284
Looks like the starter battery is failing.
And the second battery is failing a load test.
Second battery only changed in February.
Might need ideas.
If my second battery is still under warranty, and replaced, I'm thinking of making it my starter.
Then decide what to do for second battery.
More Ah more crank, longer lasting battery than what I currently have, which is the Century Ultra High Performance 4WD battery.
Fitted my front and rear Harris Hardarse diff guards.
Attachment 48504
Attachment 48505
Thank you Mr Harris.
I had a century 4wd replaced under warranty last week , bit of a hassle as they had the battery for a day and a half to test it and even though they are 770cca they will not deam it as warranty unless it goes below 650cca as that is still deamed a good battery ! Mine was just over that but because it is deamed enough for the average passenger car , Wasn't till I told them it was starting a 6cyl diesel that they agreed to replace it , and I only got balance of existing warrenty (2 months ) on the new one .Quote:
Originally Posted by MEGOMONSTER
Finally wired up some rear LED strip lights in the barn doors. Also last week wired in a digital temp controller for the Engel so now I have constant accurate temperature inside my fridge with no trial and error :) I also have a wireless temp probe so I can see what temps are doing in the cab or while around the camp.
I realised today, I'm travelling over 110kms to and from work a day.
Well, just as well you're not driving a TB then.....Quote:
Originally Posted by MEGOMONSTER
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Dropped it off to the mechanic. Will know the outcome next few days, once hes surveyed a few things and chucked it on the dyno. Hopefully she'll be ready by end of week with some newly found powa ??!!!!!!!
OH wait who am i kidding, its a 3L ...
G'day Lounge Lizards,
Finally removed the majority of my accessories from my GU 4.2 turbo diesel patrol wagon.
PS, Hopefully will have removed my lockers soon, so that my Patrol will be ready for sale.
Regards,
PMC