Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

Thanks Darren, the time taken to number and document all the cables at the fuse box is a bit redundant as the individual fuses are LED illuminated if they blow and I have taken the time to only run 1 wire per circuit, so if the fuse blows i will know immediately which circuit is at fault. Regards fires, well, I am very experienced at hitting isolators at the batteries now and also ripping battery terminals off in confined spaces! I wont bother with the fuse lids unless they fit easily, let alone labels.

I also have a weird noise happening on start up from the A/C pump area. It sounds a lot like a belt sticking and releasing from a surface for maybe the first 5 minutes then it disappears. I can't find a fault with the a/c pump or clutch and its all working well - put it down to the super stiff 8 rib belts getting some sort of 'permanent set' when it sits for a while - like the old cross ply tires that needed 2klm to push the flat spot out on start up - then as it does a few laps it heats up a bit and disappears - weird. I will see if i can video it and post it. Like I said, nothing detrimental happening, maybe just the way it is?

Anyway, I am cleaning out the garage at the moment and will then get into the 3 wires issue and non working accessories later this week.

Did good mate.

My 37 Treps were brutal after sitting for 6 months. They needed a run down the freeway to loosen up and warm up and loose the flat spot.

Can't wait to crawl all over this thing mate. Sik build.

So, been a bit busy with this latest mod. I decided to bolster the actual cooling capacity as I am not reaching the cooling numbers portrayed on the FI youtube clips. I did read also that vehicles with the FI Interchiller installed for track work, needed to add the additional ambient air heat exchanger, and this translates i believe to the 4WD touring scenario. I bought a couple of the extruded aluminum finned hex. and rigged up a circuit to take the fluid from the outlet of the w2a unit in the inlet manifold, chill it using a 3" rule bilge fan at nominal 100cfm and send the water back to the holding tank and this added approx 2L of coolant supply, which is a plus.
I dont have pics of the actual build, however the hex are encased in a custom insulated box, The inlet air is sourced from the pass side Bullbar wing, utilising a simple PVC drain fitting that is strong enough to take branches and easy to twist out and clean.

I have pics of the finished job, however Bigpond is on a go slow today and the attachments are not downloading. Also replaced a faulty water temp sender unit, and tomorrow will dive into the 3 wires that dont have a home from the latest rewire.

OK, Telstra got the message and let the attachments come thru. The heat exchanger is mounted on top of the Pass front spring tower. I checked the clearance and there is plenty of room for the tyre. The lines are run in 3/4" heater hose and suitably protected. I will need to insulate the ones inside the engine bay, however it was very tight as you could imagine.Attachment 81656Attachment 81657Attachment 81658

You are not trying hard enough Phil!!!!!!


THIS!!!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/08/64.jpg

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

You are not trying hard enough Phil!!!!!!


THIS!!!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/08/64.jpg

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You got me, 'Lay down Sally at my best'. I bet that thing is a missile, probably someone else in lockdown with too much time on their hands!

Think I came out in front today by a whisker. The 'dead instruments was simply a missing jumper cable from one fuse block to the next. The 3 remaining cables remain a mystery, however will have a look again tomorrow, as the roof camping lights are now dead. The roof mounted lightbar has started to flicker after approx 30 secs of running - will check the earth first, but it might be about to die. All other high beam aux. lights are operating fine. In discussions with the water temp sensor guys as one is stuck on minus 10 degC - even if left in ambient air or dunked in hot tap water, have already replaced the sensor, so suspect its the controller.

Wired up the aux heat exchanger fan so thats done, so apart from the temp sensor, its just the checking of the vehicle earth bonding re the HF interference on 7-8MHz.

All dead instruments are now alive, the flickering light was a dying relay, so replaced that, pulled all the earth points apart, cleaned them up and rebolted - tried radio, however there is so much background noise from Metro melb its not possible to check for success. I did add another 2 earth straps though. Tomorrow is the roofrack lights and installation of the in-line fuel heater.

Pulled the converted Nissan seat and Bostrum base out today, wasn't happy with the overall 'travel ' of the seat, so 5 hrs later after a myriad of minor changes, its how i wanted it. Fixed the roof lights, now chasing why the rear camera/rear vision mirror device has gone 'offline' With luck will have a look at the winch 'speed up project' next week, x4 line speed, so in theory 5fpm to 20fpm in low gear and 12fpm to 50fpm in high, which is really just a rope retrieve function. Its going to be a mission for sure.

Took a break from tidying the garage - been at it 3 weeks - 15 yrs of disorganisation, what a job. Anyway, mounted the emerg 12V PS pump. It will normally be carried either inside the vehicle in a storage area or under th vehicle in a storage box - have not decided. The pump came with its own bracket however required mods as expected. I am waiting on some fittings to arrive to duplicate the connections on the PS pump, then a simple job of heading to Pirtek and getting the hoses made up. Power will be by flying lead connectors, and just need to ascertain if I need a PS or not for the flow - any idea? There is a loom supplied with 3 small wires as well as the large cables to drive the pump - came with an 80amp fuse. I have had a crap run with the Chev PS pumps fitted to this engine, so if it fails up the bush, its a relatively simple job to swap out the hoses at the steering box. The RHS is just a spacer for set up. Bracket is bolted to the bullbar upright where the old tow hook used to be.
Attachment 81745Attachment 81746Attachment 81747

Am I reading this right. An emergency power steering pump?

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Originally Posted by mudski

Am I reading this right. An emergency power steering pump?

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YEP. Try and drive your car without a PS pump - next to impossible. For the extra effort worth the back up. The standard patrol PS pumps are pretty reliable, the chev pumps, prone to failure

Yeah have done it before in a GQ and it's certainly a workout . . Probably harder with a big block chevy lol. . .

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Originally Posted by Rossco

Yeah have done it before in a GQ and it's certainly a workout . . Probably harder with a big block chevy lol. . .

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500m turning circle, 100kg effort to barely move the wheel, went thru this when building the engine, and then when the pump crapped out on me after 3klm - had to take a very long loop way home and even then a right turn at the lights had me almost on th footpath before straightening up - never again. Could not imagine trying to get out of the high country tracks.

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

YEP. Try and drive your car without a PS pump - next to impossible. For the extra effort worth the back up. The standard patrol PS pumps are pretty reliable, the chev pumps, prone to failure

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Ah! the Chev pump. Yeah I'm thinking, how often would a Patrol pump fail? just about never.

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Originally Posted by mudski

Ah! the Chev pump. Yeah I'm thinking, how often would a Patrol pump fail? just about never.

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Egggzackerry. The n/a build of this motor had the nissan pump, but it changes for the 8 rib serpy drive. And as far as carrying a direct replacement, forget it - its a 6 hr spider finger alphabet swear word adventure, and then you need a 40 t press to get the pulley off and back on - there are a host of crappy design solutions on this setup I can assure you. I do have a spare PS pump I used to use to drive the hydraulic winch - its small and simple, in fact a replacement to the Chev unit I understand in the US on some models, however have not looked at the brackets as they would be totally different.

It’s official, you are out of control again Philstar Old Mate! You were doing so well too gutting out some weight for next open day adventures to come[emoji106]You have honestly saved me before though with the multitude of spare parts onboard the 4.0T beast nearly again!!
LOVE IT [emoji106][emoji106]




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Originally Posted by MB

It’s official, you are out of control again Philstar Old Mate! You were doing so well too gutting out some weight for next open day adventures to come[emoji106]You have honestly saved me before though with the multitude of spare parts onboard the 4.0T beast nearly again!!
LOVE IT [emoji106][emoji106]




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You are more than welcome @MB. I have a final addition to resolve being the 12v Proflow vac pump as a back up to the Chev vac pump. Both the vac and PS pumps are a failure point, well documented. Unfortunately I need the existing belt path as have a multitude of spare 8 rib belts now, so can't economically delete the Vac pump from the system without blowing $500 of belts!, similar in some ways to the PS pump which is really a 'brown dog' style found on commodores etc - Saginaw style, but the 8 rib pulley is pressed onto the shaft instead of doing a keyway and locking washer, absolutely impossible to retrofit in the field. Buying a spare pump and pulley is close to $900, so different approaches needed.

Still mulling over the speed change to the winch - can see the pro's and cons for sure, apart from the difficulty of installation.

If we get out of stage 4, its still wait for Stage 2 before any weekends away I believe. I suspect I might be back up north by then, but locked in QLD until the borders open enough to let me resume a FIFO roster - waiting to hear still about my funding and if i can start running stuff from Melb.When we hit Stage 2, first trip is a week into Burgoynes, non negotiable. Had this booked with my brother for Sept, but doubt it will happen.

Loving this lock down time, left alone all day in the garage catching up on 'stuff'. Today was 'bracket day, 3 started and completed. The first was the finalisation of the emerg PS pump bracket, the second was design and fabrication of the manual throttle speed increase 'jigger' ( I decided to go a bit more refined than the 'bally string thing' I had fabricated earlier). I ordered a 12V actuator from the big USA and it arrived 2 days ago. Made a mount bracket, took hours, installed it, powered it to move the solenoid plunger and it had the push of a dead slater - hopeless - no idea where it supposedly should have been fitted on the IP as there are no photos or instructions, so started again this morning and went back to a simple threaded device - works a treat, operates on the 'cam' on the opposite side of the IP to the throttle cable. last bracket was to hard mount the cruise control diaphragm plunger - I suspect this having been floating instead of hard fixed is the possible reason the CC has not worked since I munched the cable in the radiator fan blades - will see if I am right next time I get out in the beast.Attachment 81785Attachment 81786Attachment 81787Attachment 81788Finally, here is the completed installation, all done!Attachment 81789

This caught my eye today. I have been in contact with Torqueline garage and need to do a final measure up of the rims to confirm fitment. It appears the system will fit on the 15" white rims after all, but i need to confirm the dimensions. putting this together for assessment re either a hydro boost brake upgrade or stay with system I have and upgrade the calipers front and rear. Bit of coin, but it sure would stop well, 8 pots on the front and 4 pots on the back.
https://torquelinegarage.com.au/wilw...ston-calipers/
https://torquelinegarage.com.au/wilw...ston-calipers/
Kits come with everything from rotors, caliper, pads bearings, hoses.
3 weeks leadtime. 6K landed on my doorstep. Thinking thinking thinking.......

Cryogenically treated reading your big work toys are doing these days too mate!

https://ctpcryogenics.com/services/t...-truck-brakes/


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Originally Posted by MB

Cryogenically treated reading your big work toys are doing these days too mate!

https://ctpcryogenics.com/services/t...-truck-brakes/


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That is interesting reading for sure. Interesting science as well, don't understand it, but interesting.

Dave
Could save yourself nearly a grand
https://www.rodshop.com.au/wilwood-d...-calipers.html

Cheers Trevor

peebee , on those links that you provided , the fine print off to the right says you need to run at least 17inch wheels . expensive but i think they would work great and no mucking around with hydraulics .

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Originally Posted by nipagu7

peebee , on those links that you provided , the fine print off to the right says you need to run at least 17inch wheels . expensive but i think they would work great and no mucking around with hydraulics .

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Yes, I saw that and laboured the point with the guy over 7 emails. The final comment was he thought I might be able to fit them inside the Nissan supplied 15" rims, however this based on me incorrectlu telling him the dia of the EFI discs were at 330mm, when they are in fact 306mm, so before moving forward I am going to pull the spare wheel off and check dimensions, including offset. If he says the rims will fit, yes its a possibility for sure as ultimately I think I will get better disc and pad life out of clamping pressures at say 1000psi instead of going the hydroboost route where you get around 2200 -2500psi. Its a coin toss right now and 6 months away. I stumbled across these by fluke. Going 17" is not a big killer except I have only just put a set of 15" KM2's in the beast. If I must go 17" then they will be rims from Huntsman that are beadlocked, so in summary, 6/4pot assy could run out at close to 10K when its all said an done with rims, tires and the kit or 1.5 - 2k for the hydroboost. I know which one the wife will want - NEITHER!!! I have already upgraded the fronts to the twin pot EFI discs, and they stop ok but nothing brilliant - car is very heavy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tryan277

Dave
Could save yourself nearly a grand
https://www.rodshop.com.au/wilwood-d...-calipers.html

Cheers Trevor

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Thanks for the link Trevor, yes a spin up to Castlemaine for the day to get these swapped over is a possibility and the 1K difference is worth the drive as it will basically pay for the labour or I just buy the kit and swap them over myself.

just out of curiosity , what brake pads would the wilwood caliper run . nissan spec or some other

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nipagu7

just out of curiosity , what brake pads would the wilwood caliper run . nissan spec or some other

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Willwood pads, custom jobbies

yes, the issue of brakes is an interesting one.
I too have looked at these and the ones from "Rugged" as well, even talking to the dude at the 4x4 show last year (sweet memories of going to shows).
The common issue with the brake upgrades is: where do you get the "wear items" from? Pads, caliper seals, rotors etc.
You do get options with different pads compounds, so a lot of choice.
Might be a problem away from the 'burbs me thinks.
If thats not a problem, they do look good. Very tempted, however....
Ive gone with Hydroboost and braided stainless hoses as this seems to be quite reliable if the US forums are anything to go by.
great that there are options out there....

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Originally Posted by poindexter

yes, the issue of brakes is an interesting one.
I too have looked at these and the ones from "Rugged" as well, even talking to the dude at the 4x4 show last year (sweet memories of going to shows).
The common issue with the brake upgrades is: where do you get the "wear items" from? Pads, caliper seals, rotors etc.
You do get options with different pads compounds, so a lot of choice.
Might be a problem away from the 'burbs me thinks.
If thats not a problem, they do look good. Very tempted, however....
Ive gone with Hydroboost and braided stainless hoses as this seems to be quite reliable if the US forums are anything to go by.
great that there are options out there....

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I think the reline issue for replacement pads is pretty mature, so not a concern, however if I go this path I will buy a complete set of pads anyway. The challenge is the 17" wheels right now as have a near new set of 15" M/T. The system definitely needs the 17" rime, which also potentially limits my 'remote area' tyre choices i think, but then again there are thousands of 17 wheels running around the country I guess. The hydro boost may win out, but that damn chev PS pump failure is in the back of my mind and irks me - actually was doing a surf around just now for alternate options - I do have a PS pump I purchased and used with good effect that was an alternate offering/recommendation by Milemarker when I bought the hydraulic winch - ran the winch for a number of years with it and its still in great condition - slightly more flowrate capacity than the Saginaw and higher pressure also - might dig it out and have a look at that, but it needs a remote reservoir also.

Where are you up to with yours? I am essentially done.

If you are comfortable with the "reline issue", then I think the brake upgrade is not a concern.
Given that the "gold standard" of 4x4 have 17" rims, I think that should not be such an issue these days.
I had a 6.5 in a rangie years ago with the GM p/s pump, I never had a failure.
There are plenty of alternate pumps that fit the same brackets etc, so I don't understand what the problem is.
why carry the electric p/s pump, when you can carry a spare GM pump is something I have not come to grips with yet, given the weight and complexity issues.
My conversion is nearing the end, I've organised the trans cal which was my biggest challenge with the 6L90. Keen to get it on the road and start the tuning.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by poindexter

If you are comfortable with the "reline issue", then I think the brake upgrade is not a concern.
Given that the "gold standard" of 4x4 have 17" rims, I think that should not be such an issue these days.
I had a 6.5 in a rangie years ago with the GM p/s pump, I never had a failure.
There are plenty of alternate pumps that fit the same brackets etc, so I don't understand what the problem is.
why carry the electric p/s pump, when you can carry a spare GM pump is something I have not come to grips with yet, given the weight and complexity issues.
My conversion is nearing the end, I've organised the trans cal which was my biggest challenge with the 6L90. Keen to get it on the road and start the tuning.

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I know, we can all have great long term runs, and then some don't, mine lasted 3klm, and I just dont trust that pump. If you know of a direct replacement that fits the brackets, pls let me know. Regards the electric pump, well I can only assume you have not had the luxury of changing that pig of a pump whilst its actually in the vehicle with the radiator in place? The job took me 6 frickin' hours and then, the pulley is pressed onto the shaft - a 30T press could not even move it, so I had BD supply a warranty new pump and pulley. BD wanted $900 for a spare pump and 8 rib pulley, forget it, I have the 12V pump mounted, the steering box connections arrived today, so its simply down to Pirtek for a couple of hoses. It cas sit in a cubby hole for the rest of its life and never be used, happy with that, BUT, I need a spare especially if it fails up the bush as that barge is next to impossible to steer without the power assist. Its probably a 45min job at worst to swap the lines and power up the pump, and its all in relative open areas or accessible compared to the gopher hole you have to work with on the existing pump, so unless i find a different pump thats my solution for now.

Finally installed a pressure gauge on the hyd winch - was on the list for ages. happy with the installation, system pressure is less than 100psi at idle. Also installed the new in-line fuel heater just prior to the under bonnet filter, it looks like a glowplug inserted into a short length of 25mm RHS. Its got a simple thermostat to control the max temp - can't recall what it is but configured for the USA vehicles. Just have to finish off the 12V+ line with fuse and done. Happy day today, no smoke testing, no leaks after everything was done back up - finally getting things right it seems.

Added the electric oil pressure gauge setup today, pig of a job, difficult access to get to the original sender. Anyway, its done, looked good at the start, now indicating zero pressure when the oil is hot, but stutters and picks up when the revs rise. I am onto SAAS tech support to see if i have installed correctly - there is a reference to a max wire dia for the sense cable, this might be the issue. Apart from that its good.

Here is a link to the video of the gauge stuttering to take off https://www.icloud.com/attachment/?u...OV&sz=47981446

Attachment 81950

NEW GQ dash pod is truly impressive Philstar Mate, very tidy Tops!!
My NEW NBN Satellite dishy just nearly caught on fire though....48.00 mega busting video :-)
Best on ‘Private’ Youtubey as AB once tought us reduced McMegapascals or some bloody thing [emoji106][emoji106]


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by MB

NEW GQ dash pod is truly impressive Philstar Mate, very tidy Tops!!
My NEW NBN Satellite dishy just nearly caught on fire though....48.00 mega busting video :-)
Best on ‘Private’ Youtubey as AB once tought us reduced McMegapascals or some bloody thing [emoji106][emoji106]


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You explain things so clearly!

Jousting day tomorrow about this crappy instrument, first time SAAS has let me down, I got a dud and took ages to install it as well!

Don't stand in front of the dish by the way, it will nuke your goolies and you will be unattractive to the ladies.

Isn’t our beloved SAAS of old selling into SCA these days lesser?


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Originally Posted by MB

Isn’t our beloved SAAS of old selling into SCA these days lesser?


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No idea. If so maybe the quantity over quality has prevailed?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MB

It’s official, you are out of control again Philstar Old Mate! You were doing so well too gutting out some weight for next open day adventures to come[emoji106]You have honestly saved me before though with the multitude of spare parts onboard the 4.0T beast nearly again!!
LOVE IT [emoji106][emoji106]




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Electric Blanket for the fuel lines on the Snow Swag Trip comes to mind...... and a Purple Gimp Suit... I still think i imagined that though. :p

OK, the plot thickens. the Streetline range from SAAS is their entry level gauge - didn't know that - and they use a Stepper motor system which produces a stuttering or staged gauge indication - needle bounces up and down like its passing a threhld - horrible looking device. Also the sense wire is constrained to be no larger in dia than 0.8mm, and not too long - but no maximum length given and no factory supplied loom apart from a pigtale. I had the sense run in 1.0mm wire so i downgraded this to 0.6mm as the instructions say 'max 0.8mm'. Anyway, rewired the sense, fired it up, same result, zero psi at idle and the factory gauge is reading 20psi or there abouts. SAAS make a Muscle Line series which uses a different system and is smooth in operation. I am now leaning towards a VDO replacement with a 0 - 500kpa scale which is more in line with the expected pressure range i should expect to see. bit of a learning curve again. I am waiting to hear back from VDO regards the options and if their kit comes with a full loom or not