18V Dewalt didn't move it. Lol
Will have to wait till sat morning when car cools down properly and give it another go .
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18V Dewalt didn't move it. Lol
Will have to wait till sat morning when car cools down properly and give it another go .
Tapatalked from S6
Is it possible to hit the bolt head with a hammer to shock it , start spraying CRC too
as NN says a sharp tug may be better than loading it up.
Dropped a bit of crc on it last night had a spare half an hour just before and got it to move. Half turn then done it up again. At least now it's moved.
Tapatalked from S6
Keep the spray up to it and move it back and forward as well using the spray
sounds like its about to come free
It was gonna go all the way I just put it back in because car was just turned off so didn't wanna lose hot coolant and I didn't have the sensor with me anyway .
So I'm confident the bolt is free .
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After trial and error of few adaptors and sensors , the blue adaptor is best fit as it allows the most sense probe surface poking out at coolant end.
Case dismissed. Now to plug it in one cool morning.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/110.jpg
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I'm actually thinking of get the OEM plug and drilling and tapping that. Then the probe will be further in. As I reckon my temps are false. They are hotter than it actually is. Because of the sender sitting out so much its soaking more radiant engine heat than coolant.
How do you know its hotter than it really is?
You talking about drilling the original blanking bolt ? I thought about that, but once you drill big enough hole/thread for the probe, there ain't much meat left on the side walls. Unless you're talking about something different ?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Mat was right earlier, the main sensor thingie is at the very tip, as far as my quick google search has revealed ...
It'll be hard to gauge whats accurate and whats not, as there is nothing to compare it to. Wish if somehow you could pickup the readings from the factory probes in a numerical way.
You might be able to on yours hodge. The td42ti engines run an ecu. You can wire a scan gauge or similar in to them to see whats going on.
Just ordered ECU / USB / Consult cable thingie !
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63314&stc=1
Does that give you engine temps[water]?
Yes, and a few other things on a 4.2Tdi only.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Im going to use one of these in the top hose for extra water temps
Ill put the sender underneath so it in coolant all the time
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SAAS-Genu...QAAOSwU~FWDzOF
Not a bad idea mate . So you literally cut the rad. hose and fit that in between ? Never seen that before, would have maybe been more favorable than what I'm doing.
Those guys/eBay shop you linked, are on Allied drive, in Tulla. Been there before.
You should be able to read everything that the Nissan Consult readers can.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
There was a thread on the other forum where a guy connected a cheap Windows 8 tablet from Coles to an Ecutalk cable.
He then all the info on gauges in front of him.
That means water temp gauge, voltmeter, etc and a bunch of other stuff specific to TD42Ti.
Personally, I prefer the Ecutalk readout with all the info on it. I use it for my TD42T engine temp, volts and TPS.
You could throw your temp gauge away if you get that.
You read my mind John. I was wondering if i could use an Ecu talk. I should have kept mine...Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
How can you tell if you have one of these motors? Is it specified on the firewall VIN plate?
Yeh mate that's what yours is 4.2 turbo diesel intercooled 😎Quote:
Originally Posted by gubigfish
Just check if yours can take it as ecutalk site says Tdi only.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Tapatalked from S6
There's a lot of info I no longer get (nor need) on mine such as timing & MAF, O2, etc. anything that related to EFI but I'm happy to get real engine temps & volts without having to add gauges & sensors. I also used it to set my TPS and it will show if my TPS has an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Other big advantage for me is that I can still do full auto trans diagnostics via Ecutalk.
Ok next dumb question where is the port to plug in the cable
Should be under the steering coloumn
Just at the edge of the plastic trim that is under the steering wheel. Its a white plug.
Bugger. now I want an ECU talk again to read my water temps...
Did you read my post above does yours have provision for that ?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Workmates 2002 4.2 doesn't. It's not a tdi.
Just in case you buy it lol
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Did you keep your ZD30 ECU in place during the conversion?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
@ Eric does your centre,, console right of the gear stick have any switches there?
Yeah mate. That antenna switch is doing nothing. It'll be replace with front locker switch early next month...Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/121.jpg
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You just mounted the switches ,,I brought the inserts that the switches fit in.
Good to see there is enough depth for switches, Thanks for that>
Read Stropp's thread on the Ecu-Talk when you get time.
Putting 3 there too, winch isolation switch, front locker and compressor
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ARB-Carli...jXGB9Y2A_83Wrw
I used these Baintech Volt gauges to monitor my start and Aux battery,
the other is on the other side of the head unit, IMO I think its a waste putting a
volt gauge in the pillar pod
AND If you dont smoke or use the ash tray you can make
a new lid and fit some more gauges there
Ashtray is good for coins Johnny! And some spare fuses...
Not very happy with this setup of having an adapter. It limits the insertion of the probe as close to the centre of the pipe as possible. The way mine sits now is 5mm past the dump pipe wall at best. I don't think it's accurate because I really have to hammer my car and load it up to see it move past 300C. I think the temps go way beyond that.
Might just drill a hole and get the bung that arrived with the probe welded on and block of the original bung hole beaudesert welded on.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63415&stc=1
That's no good mate, lug it up a hill in 3rd or 4th and you should see the temps cruise past 300.
How did you go about running that plug (either end) through the firewall? I've got a VDO temp gauge here with the Thermo couple permanently attached and just wondering where the best place to get that through the firewall is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
You can feed it through where the main loom goes into the cab from the engine bay on the firewall.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
Tap the threads out further hodge. By running a tap down them so the adaptor and probe fitting nearly bottom out. This will get you in nearly 10mm further.
You could also get a in hex plug and drill and tap it so you can get even further in.
Another thing for that bung too Eric. Cut it flush to the pipe. There will still be enough thread there for the adaptor. I remember now doing that when i had the 3ltr.
I have a Dremel here you can use. But you just need to get some more cutting discs for it. As i used them all last week. They wear down pretty fast...
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I ran mine from engine bay into the cab white plug end (gauge) first as the plug isn't that big. I used the big grommet next to the main loom close to brake booster. Coat hanger does the trick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
Tapatalked from S6
That's how I normally get through as well, but the thermo coupling is about 10mm in diameter. I might tape and then shrink wrap it onto my coat hanger wire to try and protect it a bit.
Yeah I run good smooth layer of tape up and down the whole join and then lube it up to easy it in.
That grommet there on my car is getting quiet busy.
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