haha yeah mate, wasnt any point getting upset it would just affect other things like my relationship with the missus etc then i would be further up shit creek. youll get to see it this weekend!
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I had dobinson flexys on the Q and shocks they handled their fair share of jumps and hard times held up well
Got them on the far superior GU as well
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You must be a top fella
I have also just finished reading through your thread and have found that I am in a very similar position to yourself in that I have just bought myself an 05 model (bog standard) and am worried about exactly what has happened to you may happen to me. So from what I have read, you need to fit the NADS kit (catchcan, EGT blanking plate and dawes needle valve) and a set of gauges to "help" keep out of trouble...
Does this sound right or have I missed something?
p.s. I thought that I had a lot of patience, I tip my hat to you, Rusty
Gday mate,
so yeah as per guidance from the many gurus on here(and a few of the dribblers) i sourced a dawes and needle valve, EGR Plate and catch can from Mudski, and bought a two in one EGT and PSI BOOST Gauge from Mcnally Gauges. Even though this will help prevent the engine from grenading dont be fooled, it may still happen, unfortunately I just bought a car that was too far along and it still grenaded regardless.
there is actually a thread on here explaining the whole process, maybe someone with better searching skills can find it?
im not at my car atm but i can take a picture of where i mounted the gauge too, its quite un-obtrusive, it sits ontop of the steering wheel column.
These motors are far more prone to grenading if they are of the 2000-2003 vintage. Nic's is out of this time frame and he was just very unlucky for it to happen to him. You rarely hear of a motor from his model or later doing this. Very rarely. However, having said that, like Nic said, if the motor is already on the way to dropping the pin, regardless of what you do, apart from a rebuild, its going to happen. How do you tell? The only way I think would be to take the head off and look, or a compression test may give an indication that something is not right.
But don't be put off by this by all means. There are a many "Grey nomad" around, towing massive caravans with stock 3ltr Patrol and done well over 350k on them and have not seen one issue. I did some research when I had my 3ltr and have a theory on why this is so, but I'll leave it at that for now.
As you have said... " if the motor is already on the way to dropping the pin, regardless of what you do, apart from a rebuild, its going to happen. How do you tell? The only way I think would be to take the head off and look, or a compression test may give an indication that something is not right." but there is a point that I have noticed mentioned on another thread is that if the O2 sensor becomes clogged or fouled, and the boost runs too high, this is the main culprit for things going bang... Is that a reasonable summation?
Hi boost wont kill these motors. Mine ran on 25psi boost for nearly two years. The o2 sensor your refering to. I would assume its the air flow meter, or the map sensor your meaning.
It could be a number of things as to why it happens. Each scenario would be slightly different maybe. But from the three stripped down motors i have seen, all suffered the exact same fate. Melted pistons on 3 and 4 pots. What caused this is really unknown. But thoe cylinder temps would have been bloody high for this to happen i think.
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Just reads this entire thread, 2 hours later, I gotta hand it to not only rusty for your extraordinary patience , but everyone on here for their unconditional support. I too have recently bought a GU IV and glad to be in the right place with the right people on this forum! Yet to do nads but sorting out some other issues atm (possible oil cooler leak and need to fix my drivers door which doesnt want to lock). Great read, good stuff rusty.
does anyone know how to get the alternator out? im having trouble accessing the bottom bolts on it, is there a trick?
you just need to hold your tounge right Nic. Theres one bolt either side which the alternator pivots on. From memory these were a pain to remove.
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Yea it's 3 bolts. I found on the td undo the bottom ones first as the top will hold the weight off the bottom 2 so they undo easier..
I helped do my dads alternator in the gq. Farken pain in the ass. The alternator that he got sent was different and the plug was on opposite sides so we done a test run and managed to get the bottom bolts in within 10 mins, everything was going to fit so took the bolts out connected the terminals on the back and proceeded 2 put it back in again.....must of spent an hour between us trying to get the back bottom bolt back in!!!
thanks fellas ill have another look this arvo
changed the alternator today. ran it for a few seconds its running well again. howley cow the old one was shot! the bearings had all packed it in and the spindle had nearly slipped out!
Coz GU
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Haven't posted in here for ages, lots has been going on though and I just haven't had much time to get on the forum, been doing 60-90 hour weeks. The payroll is still going strong, tegan and I have moved to Victoria which some of you know and we're living it down here.
The other day I replaced the intercooler with an eBay cheapie due to the factory one leaking. The egts are much lower now and it feels better cruising, the motor has to work much less hard. Hopefully with the money I'm pulling in I'll be able to post up about a new exhaust, new Airbox and rear bar over the next few months!!
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Glad to see everything going well for you guys!
My schedule is pretty hectic right up until the baby is born and then Christmas but we should try and catch up man