I have fitted the snorkel and am waiting for the paint to dry before fitting the inner plastic and flare. I can't wait to do a long trip to see if I get better mileage.
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I have fitted the snorkel and am waiting for the paint to dry before fitting the inner plastic and flare. I can't wait to do a long trip to see if I get better mileage.
After a bit of drama, I have a new snorkel. I have explained what happened here: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...k-Your-Snorkel
I now have to make a plug of some sort for the pre-heat inlet of the filter housing. I sprayed a bit of Start Ya Bastard around any possible places that could let in water.
The engine revs increased a when I sprayed bit near the filter to dust collector pipe and also the pre-heat inlet and pre-heat diaphragm.
A bit of silicon around the bottom of the diaphragm housing has fixed that bit, but I will need to make the plug removeable as the carby struggles a bit in the colder months.
To further enhance water proofing the engine intake, I have bought a brass reducer that uses a brass 1" plug.
Using the copper-based silicon, I have glued the reducer into the Pre-heat elbow on the filter housing.
This allows me to seal off the pre-heat flap instead of having to engineer some sort of seal on the flap itself.
I have also put a ball bearing inside the diaphragm vacuum hose so it doesn't lift the flap and cause a constriction of the air flow.
Now I can still run the pre-heat in winter, and seal it up for off road trips and it looks stock and road worthy.
The first picture is of the driving lights I was given.
In the engine bay, the water proof box next to the battery is for the headlight relays. There is a small black box behind the battery for the driving light relays and fuses.
Only a small job but it has made life that little bit easier in the cabin. I have built a larger storage box under the radio. I used an old stereo's housing in which I glue a piece of wood to act as a lip at the front, then glued carpet inside. It is around 3-4 cm deeper, 1 1/2 cm higher and around 3-4 cm wider than the pissy little plastic original.The bottom of the box is also at a deeper angle than it used to be. Combined with the lip, it will take a lot more for the contents to slip out.
It looks a little bit crappy as there is only some black tape on the front. I will paint it black, one day.
Your an ideas man Craig.
Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
Did you get around to fitting an air horn pump up to the dizzy, you'll needQuote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
a needle valve or similar to adjust the flow.
Pretty sure I have one here I can post to you, basically brand new.
No, John, have had other stuff that needed attending to. I have found an old air regulator in my shed , so it mght be able to be fitted. But thanks anyway, mate.
Wow, your engine bay is so clean!
I don't know why. The bay has only been washed once in the 3-4 years I've had the Old Trol, and that was when I had to take it through the Surrey River. One thing about having a clean engine, is that fluid leaks are easily diagnosed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
I have been checking and studying the fuel breather system, with the ultimate goal of fitting an auxilary fuel tank. I have found that the breather filter attached to the tank is connected directly to the canister in the engine bay.
Does anyone know if this is standard for a '94 model or has it been modified?