Wow my water temps are HIGH like 122c high climbing up the hills. Only started since fitting the 3" zorst Dawes and needle @mudski any ideas??
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Wow my water temps are HIGH like 122c high climbing up the hills. Only started since fitting the 3" zorst Dawes and needle @mudski any ideas??
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What's your EGT's doing ? Where are they at when that happens?
also what boost are you getting ??
Hey mate. We need to know what your max boost is and what your boost is at 100k's. Also an idea of EGT's too mate. If anything I would say your spool up is too slow, causing slight over fueling which may bring on higher than usual coolant temps. You manual or auto? If manual what gear were you in?
Haven't got the egt gauge in yet will do that tomorrow. Boost normally 15.5 saw it hit 16.2 going up the hill at the start. Been watching it at 100ks and it's around 10-12 it fluctuates a bit.
Edit: it's an auto
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Another quick question have you blocked the EGR yet ????
Shouldn't really have fitted it without an EGT gauge...
Try closing the needle valve to speed up the spool rate a bit.
Yep egr is blockedQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
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Firstly, how do you know it is hitting 122°C, factory gauge will not point to that. So Scangauge perhaps? Is it just incorrect gauge setting because at that temp the engine will be cooked for sure.
Secondly, fitting Dawes and needle valve combo even if you set it wrong (read lower values) should never ever cause engine overheating to such highs full stop. If unplug the vacuum hose from the actuator and go for a drive, the only thing you will notice is lack of power and perhaps EGTs skyrocketing. If anything Dawes and needle valve combo is exposing the issue with cooling system because they makes the system power up and stay up more. In any case this just might be coincidence.
3" exhaust will not cause overheating for sure.
To me this sound like either fan not working correctly or radiator is blocked either internally or externally which would affect the engine fan.
Regards
Try with the air-con on and fan on two, that will kick in the fan for the condensor
and maybe eliminate the viscous coupling as the problem
I was struggling to see how a 3" system would cause over heating probs
Ive just had the top tank removed system flushed and new coolant. It had been running 3C cooler. Coincidence that its gone up now the 3" and dawes etc have been added? Yeah I've got a scan gauge thats how i saw the temp go up. First time the factory gauge went above half to nearly "H"
Silly and obvious questions... How is the coolant level? And has the system been bled properly ?
And while fitting the needle and dawes, maybe you've knocked something?..... I know when I was doing mine I knocked a hose to my header tank while undoing a vacuum hose near the vacuum solenoid. Heard a hiss and then coolant ran out.... As I said, dumb questions, but figured I'd ask.
And bloody hell 122C is getting really high.
How many bog holes have you done lately {Love Day} included.
And X 2 with the others,, 122C is bloody hot you should of had
steam pouring out from under the bonnet, something would of failed IMO
I take it you parked uphill to "Burp" the system
No bog holes for a long time, definitely not since the radiators been done. Coolant levels look fine. It was bled at the mechanics. As soon as i went down the hill the temps rapidly fell back down, within 30 seconds. No hissing no steam nadda
So no steam etc @ 122C I'd say the gauge is giving a false reading some how.
wait till you have a proper gauge fitted and see if that makes a difference.
As I mentioned 122c would have steam hissing out even blowing a hose it
would have that much pressure
Making sure the ohm on the sender match the ohm of the gauge
Id be checking the settings on the Scan-Gauge
Did you notice where the OE needle was sitting??
NEarly upto the "H"Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Over a few cold bevies I've just been thinking and looking back at when I had my CRD.
Ca'rs coolant temps would rocket at the smell of any hill.... My system was normal and this was before AND after the NADS.
It never got anywhere near what you have had mate. I think max it got to once was like 102C... And even that for me was panic stations... But the temps quickly recvered.
CRD's are known for higher EGT's but ... I'm not sure about coolant.
The same hill it would often go to 101 or 99. Now its jumped 20C i shatQuote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Yeah I would have shat too . That's a big jump.Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
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I have been playing around with my cars boost setup over the last few weeks and saw the same behaviour on hills when boost was low or the spool up rate slow. Set the Dawes to around 19 psi and close the needle valve. Then it's a case of slowly opening the valve and taking test drives until you find a balance you are happy with. Make sure the test drives also include highway speeds as I found that you can open the needle valve too much which will give you great torque down low but at 80-100kph there was not enough boost and power was terrible with high egt/water temp.Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
I'll give that a go tomorrowQuote:
Originally Posted by Rock Trol
What happens if the car sits idle for a while? After its reached operating temp... Try removing the valves and put it back to stock maybe, and see if theres any difference.
Do you think you may of cooked something at 122C
Doesn't the Scan-gauge have an audible alarm like
my Ecu-Talk, that will sound an alarm @ 100C ??
You'll have a better idea whats going on when you have
the all your gauges fitted.
It's sits perfect 85C at idle. I might pull the valves and see what happensQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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There is definitely something else at play here.
Noticed nil difference after egr block, exhaust fitment or tillix kit.
I'm thinking possible air lock but these things are good for self bleeding.
Whats the overflow doing when hot?
Filling up?
Have you got the caps the right way around?
Normal cap on radiator and pressure cap on top tank??
I had the radiator done before xmas done two trips since with no overheating issues whatsoever. Just since putting the 3" and Dawes etc. Got today off so will fit up the egt been driving in the burbs and issues aren't there gotta find a hill and a 100k zone near home
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A bit of a mystery thats for sure, cant see it being anything major.
Do one thing at a time so you'll know what is causing this.
you have the air solenoid looped off at the air filter?
cant see that doing it though
still thinking false reading, only because there was no steam
or boiling, from reaching 122C
Yeah but both gauges skyrocketed. Unless the sensor is faultyQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Doubt sensor would be faulty eh.
The things that are sent to PHARKIN test me! The dump pipe has two spots to potentially put the EGT gauge. Reckon either of the bloody bolts will budge!!
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Give it a decent spray with something suitable ,,then have a beer and a sit down
then try again,,, repeat till bolt comes out LOL
take it youre using the one on the first bend closest to the turbo??
Certainly odd this one. I think it has to be coincidental. Incorrectly tuned valves could result in high EGT's, but not water, I would think.
Now ive just done the school pick up so the dump pipe is raging hot to touchQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Relax,,,, now lift the bonnet then go grab a can sit down say a few words.
repeat until cool enough to work on, yes my friend repeat if required lol
But if your motor is burning heaps of fuel with not enough boost (incorrect ratio ) , therefore high egts, therefore that heat will the transfer onto your cooling system ...Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Amarite ?
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exhaust gas EGT will get hotter with low boost and over fueling,Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
cant see how that can transfer to the cooling system??
So you push your motor up a hill regardless if it's overfuelling or not , your Egts go up, so obviously the motor is running warmer then.... What do you think cools the motor ? Coolant !Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
So therefore coolant will definitely get hotter. It's all relative .
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exactly what I have experienced in the last few weeks as I have been playing with the valve settings and even let the ecu have a go at controlling boost (not a good outcome on hilly terrain). Boost and egt would fluctuate with terrain but water temp was getting hot at around 100 deg C. That extra heat in the head from combustion transfers into the coolent. Now I have set the boost to be around 19 max with a fairly aggressive spool rate and temps are down to what they used to be before I started mucking around with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
@growler2058 Did you get the probe in ???
Nah now im at work. Sprayed with wd40 but it just burns off. I need to take the WD to work spray the bastard when its cool and try again in a few hoursQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs