GQ auto problem- ALMOST fixed still need some help/ideas/suggestions to nail it

On my GQ dual fuel wagon, I had a auto problem I thought may've been related to some long distances I was travelling on consecutive days of 30+ degree heat.

After the final day of this travelling, I noticed that the next time I tried to drive, could not change out of 1st. I'd regularly checked fluid and oil levels for everything during this period of long distance travel, so didn't think problem would be from underfilling. Thought I'd let the engine run to get some heat up to check level anyway. As I was trying to limp in 1st to safer ground, I found it would now change normally, until I realised it wasn't changing into 4th.

Did transmission oil/filter change. Oil had it's colour and did not smell burnt, filter still looked reasonably clean, and nothing but the usual sludge and fine metal filings you'd expect around the magnet.

A few days before, I'd removed the radiator, cleaned and flushed, removed engine block plug and flushed. Put back together, refilled with good coolant. Temp gauge still sat on half or slightly over when up to temp.

Auto was definitely smoother, and after a carby cleanout and some slight adjustments to the idle/mix/accelerator, it's running better than it has in ages. However....

I still have to warm it up for around 10 minutes from a cold start before driving, or auto will not change from 1st. And still no 4th. I've worked out I use about 30% more fuel because of this. Frustrating.

I've gone through the manuals, scoured the forums, and have found so many likely causes/fixes suggested it's hard to know where to start. I'm hoping this description has a familiar ring to it for someone, and that they can narrow the field a bit for me - preferrably with reassuring happy ending.

maybe wrong oil ?, seems like once it warms up it thins abit and allows changing of auto

Sorry mate its a case of going through the steps in the manual as listed to try and diagnose the problem, could be many issues

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Originally Posted by Great Southern Camping

When you start the truck, the switch in the centre console for "Auto, Hold, Power" will flash. Count the flashes and sometimes it may be a known TCU fault code (I had 16 flashes prior to box overhaul as have a couple of other people, and whilst I thought this was normal, it isn't - it was flashing an error code; it is now fixed, TC replaced and only flashes about 4 or 5 times and is running like a bought one).

Other than that, the 4th gear is overdrive, and I believe there is a switch for that (not the lever switch) below the stick in the cover, or on top of the box with the ATP switch. That would be a good place to start also maybe?

Odd about the first gear issue though - like it hasn't got enough oil flow/pressure when cold which could suggest incorrect oil type as stated already - what oil do you run? Fully synthetic?


Scotty (Bigrig)

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Yes, fully synthetic, the nissan D equivalent. Problem was occurring before and after recent oil change. Previous oil change was done at a auto trans specialist workshop.

I'll just have to go down the list of 'fixes' and hope it's one of the less expensive one's. And I'm not sure if this is related, but problem arose at the same time as I began having issue's trying to run on petrol- think I've got a leak somewhere or dead fuel pump. I doubt it has any relevance, but I know nothing......

The pic below mentions A.T.P. and a 'lamp' but I have no switches or flashing lights. I've read about them so many times in different posts, and have never had a clue what a is being referred to.....

Dunno how to delete threads, but I've decided not to waste any more dollars on this vehicle. Not sure if I'll put a 'make an offer' sign on it yet or drive it to the wreckers. There is the exact same model from the same year with the same setup at the wreckers down the road from me (in better condition than mine) - I think I know why it's there now.

It is too expensive to drive mine in this condition, and the problem with getting out of 1st gear when cold will end up being terminal - and I'm not going down the rebuild road again. Nothing but a money pit. Never had problems like this with any auto transmission I've had before, these one's seem needlessly complicated. I'm sure these Patrols go great with a manual box in 'em, but too late for that now.

I wish all Patrol owners well. I'm a big fan of auto's over manual's usually, but I reckon these should be avoided at all costs. That's from my experience anyway.

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Originally Posted by soulburner2000

I'm a big fan of auto's over manual's usually, but I reckon these should be avoided at all costs. That's from my experience anyway.

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Disagree.... they are a great gear box just need to be looked after like any other gearbox,

When you checked your gearbox oil, did you do it warm and run it through the gears before checking????

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Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2

Disagree.... they are a great gear box just need to be looked after like any other gearbox,

When you checked your gearbox oil, did you do it warm and run it through the gears before checking????

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Must have to get lucky with them I guess....Yes, did the check at temp and after I'd moved through the gears.

Really, I could've lived with having to warm it up for 15 minutes from cold before it would change aout of 1st gear, but with all the highway driving without the overdrive was killing me in fuel costs. The fact that everything was running hotter because of this would also cause alarm.

I've suffered hair loss on 3 seperate occasions over the last 8 years due to stress and anxiety issues (luckily it always grows back). The thing with this frustrating auto was leading to a 4th.

I'm vain, I'd rather have hair than a dodgy auto.....

There was another poster having similar trouble lately, after putting in Synthetic Oil in their GQ Auto ...... coincidence, or is it just bad luck.

I would re-check the recommendations for the type of fluids compatible with the Auto to be sure....it might be an easy fix.

Mic

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Originally Posted by happygtu

There was another poster having similar trouble lately, after putting in Synthetic Oil in their GQ Auto ...... coincidence, or is it just bad luck.

I would re-check the recommendations for the type of fluids compatible with the Auto to be sure....it might be an easy fix.

Mic

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I used the recommended Nissan Matic D equivalent. The problems were occurring before the change also - my main reason for doing it.

To recap, was driving on a hot day, stopped at a traffic light, and could not find a gear when I tried to pull away. Let it cool and topped up with a little fluid, seemed ok again. Next time I drove, problems were present....

So I went for a drive after making a few adjustments, to test things out and fuel up. Checked the transmission fluid level and this is what it showed. Holy smokes! However.....

I have found in the past that I NEVER get a consistent reading from one day to the next where my oil level is concerned - might show as underfilled when I check it tomorrow. This has been my experience; and yes I check it when hot. I've often thought the dipstick is the wrong type for the vehicle, but only due to the inconsistent readings.

sigh.....

Could you have got some kind of air block in the trans cooler or lines when refilling? Are any of your fluid lines kinked or perhaps a bit blocked some how?

FanTapstic!

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Originally Posted by Great Southern Camping

There are examples on here when people have bought cars with the wrong length dipstick - there's even a photo (I put up about 18 months or more ago). I'll see if I can find it and copy it over - could well be its overfilled as the dipstick is the wrong length ...

And no, you don't have to be "lucky" old mate to get a good one ... you are unlucky to get a bad one ...

But we're onto it and trying to assist with the hair loss prevention program!! lol


Scotty (Bigrig)

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Thanks very much, I really appreciate the efforts.

Regarding my problems with the dipstick, I have seen posts by others mentioning similar difficulties getting an accurate reading, though not sure if they were on this forum. I didn't take much notice of the specific content of these posts at the time, but they gave me the impression that it may be a known common issue. I'm more inclined to believe now though that the wrong length dipstick is more likely, though I appear to have a matching 'set'.

I apologise, I shouldn't have 'dissed' all autos, I'm just frustrated with mine.

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Originally Posted by taslucas

Could you have got some kind of air block in the trans cooler or lines when refilling? Are any of your fluid lines kinked or perhaps a bit blocked some how?

FanTapstic!

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They don't appear to be kinked but not sure if they're blocked. I did follow the lines (on my back, underneath the vehicle) to the transmission looking for any splits/leaks/damage and visually things looked ok.

Can you give me an idea of how to test for blockage. Apart from unclamping hoses at various connection points to check the flow I can't think of what more I could do - not here anyway, with my limited equipment and resources.

Nah sorry I wouldn't know how to easily check for a blockage. I just thought it weird that you are getting different readings on the stick, that's what made me think maybe an air lock. Even if the stick is the wrong one, it should be the same level all the time?
Your checking it when warmed up and with engine running?

FanTapstic!

Here's an example of what I was referring to with inconsistant trans fluid readings - under same conditions (after driving around town with my son), got home, car still running, checked the level on dipstick. Here's the result. Still showing as overfull but significantly lower. There are no leaks.

Decided to take a look a both dipsticks next to eachother. I always assumed they were a match, but after closer inspection, I have my doubts. The transmission stick looks older and more 'used' than motor oil one. The motor oil dipstick had a code/number on it, but none present on trans stick.

What's it all mean? It means I'm more confused. But I'm here to learn people, and to benefit from your wisdom and superior knowledge.....

perhaps the oil dip stick looks older because it has been more frequently used (checked) than the trans one? Do you have any mates with the same engine to compare the sticks?
I will take a pic of mine when it stops raining here.
I'm just guessing but fluctuating levels would maybe be from inconsistent pressure inside the system???
Is the trans breather line blocked?
Does anyone know how to check if the trans fluid pump is working %100?
I'm really just guessing and throwing ideas out there.

FanTapstic!

Don't know anyone with a patrol, but there's a gq auto from same year at the wreckers down the road. Might ask then what they want for the TPS on it , and have a look while I'm there.

Maybe a previous owner got distracted while checking oil level and drove off without putting dipstick back in? Thought a replacement out of a 'near enough' model would do. I'm just speculating as well.

It's still raining here as well, but I'll go check out the breather shortly.

Last night I took out the rear seats, centre console, gear selector trim, centre dash section etc, other bits and pieces, to clean and check in case I do get rid of it. Change the CD player over while I'm at it. Cig lighter socket was a bugger to get out. The small, unexpected problems like that seem to hold me up the most.

This thread seems to have petered out. Thanks for all replies...

Just posted this on another thread, may as well update here as well.....

Bought a new Bosch GT40r coil and fitted it.
I had my TPS off today, gave it a good soaking in WD40 (sprayed in every gap I could find), and cleaned it with a 'modified' soft bristled toothbrush and dental pik. Let it drain and dry out, and put it back on with a slight adjustment. All the connections got a spray and good clean as well.
Holy crap, what a difference it made! So smooth between gears, and smoother to drive in general. TC still not locking up, but so much better.

Going to book it in with my gas guy for a decent tune-up, and then I'll start pricing reco-ed TC's. Definitely gonna get an oil cooler for the transmission as insurance for the future.

Hi mate, I have closed your other thread down and re-directed everyone 2 leave comments here, It gets really confusing having two threads going that relate to the same problem.

Cheers

Toddie

gonna try the 330 ohm resistor fix before I do anything else

hey mate just a query have you tried adding a manual lockup switch for the TC as taslucas and I have experienced issues with flaring with the TC in the past and I added one to force lockup when this occurred and found the flaring would disappear after I manually locked the TC
there are a few threads around for doing this might be worth checking out as it is an easy job for the DIY

Hi mate, can you check something for me when you have time

The Gearbox dipstick does it have "HOT" written on one side and "Cold" written on the other side?

The Engine Oil dipstick does it have "FULL and "LOW" written on it

Yes the Engine oil Dipstick has a code/number on it where else the transmission has no code/number on it

I found your photo's of the dipsticks strange as mine have 2 different types of handle

This is my gearbox oil dipstick handle

Attachment 28947

This is my engine oil dipstick handle

Attachment 28948

Cheers

Toddie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2

Hi mate, can you check something for me when you have time

The Gearbox dipstick does it have "HOT" written on one side and "Cold" written on the other side?

The Engine Oil dipstick does it have "FULL and "LOW" written on it

Yes the Engine oil Dipstick has a code/number on it where else the transmission has no code/number on it

I found your photo's of the dipsticks strange as mine have 2 different types of handle

This is my gearbox oil dipstick handle

Attachment 28947

This is my engine oil dipstick handle

Attachment 28948

Cheers

Toddie

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My engine oil dipstick has only the letters - F for full (or H - high? only an hour ago I checked & forgot already) and L for low

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pacs

hey mate just a query have you tried adding a manual lockup switch for the TC as taslucas and I have experienced issues with flaring with the TC in the past and I added one to force lockup when this occurred and found the flaring would disappear after I manually locked the TC
there are a few threads around for doing this might be worth checking out as it is an easy job for the DIY

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have been considering it

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Originally Posted by soulburner2000

My engine oil dipstick has only the letters - F for full (or H - high? only an hour ago I checked & forgot already) and L for low

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What about the gearbox?

"HOT" written on one side and "Cold" written on the other side - as you describe.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pacs

hey mate just a query have you tried adding a manual lockup switch for the TC as taslucas and I have experienced issues with flaring with the TC in the past and I added one to force lockup when this occurred and found the flaring would disappear after I manually locked the TC
there are a few threads around for doing this might be worth checking out as it is an easy job for the DIY

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Can someone please send me a link for a GQ? Preferably with easy to understand instructions.

Also, beside cost, what is better about the DIY method? Are the switches you can buy online any different?

Thanks...

Hey mate, I can't post a link at the moment as I'm on my phone but if you use the search function on this forum you should find a few threads about these switches including a DIY. There was a very in depth diy done a while ago. Try searching for lockup switch, TC lockup, lockup solenoid bypass etc.....

FanTapstic!

Some light reading for you Craig, the only difference I would see between a bought one and a do it yourself is the cost, I don't think there would be any real difference

Hopefully ripper or chaz will see this and comment

Cheers

Todd

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...otts-of-photos)

http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Locku...s%20Switch.htm

Probably too late...lost reverse gear tonight. Looks like it's stuffed. (sigh)

Ah criest. That's just sh#t luck soul burner! Seems like things aren't going right with you. Have you got the ability to source a second hand box?

Definitely rebuild time or exchange Craig :(

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Originally Posted by Parksy

Ah criest. That's just sh#t luck soul burner! Seems like things aren't going right with you. Have you got the ability to source a second hand box?

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There's a 1990 GQ with a manual box at the wreckers down the road for $1500, complete and running - might have to check if the box is ok and convert to manual.

hahahahaha love your Avatar Craig

I'll reply to your manual conversion thoughts later 2nite

Quote:

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Originally Posted by soulburner2000

There's a 1990 GQ with a manual box at the wreckers down the road for $1500, complete and running - might have to check if the box is ok and convert to manual.

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Are you considering buying the whole thing for $1500? $1500 would go a long way to fixing up the auto box. Once you have the auto sorted youll have a superior 4wd running the gearbox that is superior for 4wding:)

A TB42 Auto in "D" (for drag lol)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mc7gVtsPtus

Another TB42 Auto in "2"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrjE1Kgy8pA

Manual conversion is the way to go. Not much goes wrong with those units.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Parksy

Manual conversion is the way to go. Not much goes wrong with those units.

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Not much goes wrong with standard suspension and AT tyres either................... lol