Bryan's MQ/MK Project

G'day all,
You are all in for a treat, normally when you check out someone's project page, they're prob a mechanic, panel beater, welder, engineer or have a shite load of money..in other words, know what they're doing.
I am NOT one of them, I'm an ex soldier so about the only thing I did/do well is break things.
Those that may of seen my posts in intros would know I do NOT like things easy, I married a Sth African and am now living in NZ so she can be closer to my in laws (haven't made it easier by having a name that others can relate monty python to). To top it off, have now filled my double garage with a MQ and a MK which means her car is out in the cold (still trying to work out what she means by that).
My end plan is to have a MK wagon body on a MQ chassis that will have a canvas top that can be removed.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00220171.jpg
These are the two in question, red body to be biffed, silver over to the red chassis.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...20172-Copy.jpg
stripping down the body..i think
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00220173.jpg
petrol inline 6 that I'm keeping
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00220176.jpg
the MQ (red one) is in quite good nick (apart from the panels I've chucked) that even has the orginal rims (and i think tyres)
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00209428.jpg
Obviously the 1st thing I was did was cut the roof off with a grinder
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00209427.jpg
then i found the rust
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00209432.jpg
also in the drivers floor.

My glorious plan is to have a gucci MQ that will have canvas top that can be removed. The I've set aside about a year to get it to where I want it to be. Alot of it is funds so tis a matter of taking what I need off the donor and selling what's left for the funds.
Any mechanics/engineers/welders that happen to have nothing else to do would welcome ANY and ALL help.. first thing is I've been 'told" that it's not too hard to swap the bodies over..just a matter of undoing some body mounts, steering and loom..sounds easy if I say it fast.
Anyone got any links/pics on where these bolts are. Also the MK body I'm wanting comes from a 24v engine going onto a 12v MQ. So would that mean all I'd have to do is change the bulbs?

OK, first why are you changing chasis? Is the silver a deisel? I know you guys have Deisel Tax but does it make far
more dearer than petrol? The reason I ask is, I believe the deisels are more economical than those petrols.

Secondly you will buy either 12V sealed beam 7"x5" headlights or Halogen 7"x5" headlights and fit 12v bulbs for the MK. Do you know if the ones in the MK are sealed beam or halogen?

All bulbs in all exterior lights, dash instrument lamps, interior lights will needto be replaced with the 12v ones inthe MQ.

Don't forget the wiper motor/s, radio, clock, fuel pick/sender unit, horn, and heater motor.



Tim

Hi Tim,
Changing chassis for two reasons, the silver body actually has less rust (is only the one rust hole in the floor and what you see in the chassis rail above the driver) in it however the chassis is a bit sus, the MQ's body putting it mildly is bog and crap however the chassis has been looked after.
As for the diesel motor, unfortunately it's actually more expensive to operate here in NZ. The low pump price is quite deceptive as you also have a "road users" tax where you buy KMs (big fines if you don't pay for them prior to running out) and also the Rego fees are astronomical as they base it on what it's maximum load it can carry. As it's a wagon it is also classed as a "commercial" vehicle.
The local council of whom I have an accountant friend (yes I know, but he does get out sometimes) did a study on petrol over diesel and unless you're doing extremely high KMs it's actually more expensive to run diesel (taking in servicing costs).
It also won't be my daily driver, it's more for hunting/bushbashing and finally also a tool to teach my son to drive without fear of him breaking anything..well on the patrol that is.

Sounds like a great job, make sure you take pics along the way

Looks like you will be bussy, these guys here are a great help too :) my ol mq has a hole in the floor like that too that Im yet to tackle but enjoy your project and I look forward to watching your build.
Cheers Michelle

I know Michelle, being following your build as well :tongue:
When I pulled back the carpet and saw that rust hole had a mental picture of me being Fred Flintstone.
Build will be a slow process as can only go as fast as the funds allow and that is dictated on how much I can get from the parts I don't need.
Unfortunately a lot of kiwi's don't know just how bullet proof the SD33T is.:1087:
My first big "adventure' is to find the body mounts and undo the bolts/nuts (or whatever they are) and then work out what else needs to be removed so I can remove the body..should be a barrel of laughs for you guys when i post the photos :-)

MWHAHAHAHAHAHA..... Have found the MQ manual (well, did 25 posts and gained access) and know what I need to do...looks really easy. Apparently all I have to do is undo a couple of bolts and Bob's ya uncle.
Please don't burst my bubble, let me at least pop it first.

Yay for the body swaps.....

Ive got both the diesel and the petrol MQ/MKs here
Unless your talking some serious government costs regarding diesels running and overheads,the diesel will be at least half as cheap to run , via its fuel consumtion
Those petrols love the juice, up near the TB42 GQ area , 20L /100Ks, where as the diesel even in turbo guise 10-12L and absolutley have it all over the petrol
Dont worry about the other issues with body swaps, which ever engine type style you go with remove the full wiring system from it cars origin and swap it over
Then plug it all up and done
The body bolts, start soaking them now with like WD40 or the likes, squirt here and there every week or so , help them when you want them out
The 2 main bolts youll have issues with are the furtherest on the body up behind the rear bumper, these can be a pain and many have cut out with the oxy
Make sure the brake lines at the booster and the clutch lines are disconnected before doin the swap , and disconnect the wiring harness just under the drivers seat
Any Qs , chuck em up

Thanks for that info Mad, we are talking serious taxes unfortunately.. Greenies rule the roost here, no leaded fuel, diesel frowned on because the smoke is black...and god help you if you happen to crush a petal.
If it wasn't for the cheap beer and the strong oz dollar...!!!
Oh and my wife...so she tells me

I'll be posting a shite load of pics,
1. so you can all have a giggle,
2, so others can learn from my booboos ,and
3. when I get I get it wrong the headshead can redirect me in the right direction.

With the size of your garage, I take it you're not in a hurry for a roof rack? lol.

Keep the pics coming.

Take care out there.

Rossco

How do you find the split rims? I've got them and when the tyres run out of tread, I'll be ditching them. I've had to replace 2 tubes, costing about $50-$55 AUD - each

Rossco

Hi Rossco,
Yes, height was an issue until I cut the high roof off. Going to put a canvas top on it.. awesome plans with matching amazing pictures on beer coasters when I had some mates around. Wife has since suggested that I should do the rest of my plans with less alcohol involved.
As for the split rims..I got the MQ that had them on off Trademe (Ebay clone here in NZ) for 800ish. Has traveled about 40 mtrs since I've had her. My previous exp with split rims was when I was still serving as they were standard with the 110s. Personally can't stand them myself as they're a pain in the a... to change. Going to flick them off with the hope that someone has the same demented false sense of the "good ole times" as I have with MQ/MKs. lol

Yeah bud, flick those bloody split rims
Gee a set of sunnies 2nd hand shouldnt cost no more than $20-$25 a pop
I use split rims here on the property only because i can run the light truck tyres at 0 pounds air and they dont peel of (or im to lazy to pump them up)either way i have them here only for that

Just had a brainwave MQ, may see if the NZ army want them for their series 3 Landrovers LOL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MQ MAD

Yeah bud, flick those bloody split rims
Gee a set of sunnies 2nd hand shouldnt cost no more than $20-$25 a pop
I use split rims here on the property only because i can run the light truck tyres at 0 pounds air and they dont peel of (or im to lazy to pump them up)either way i have them here only for that

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Oh, forgot to add that the silver while has got wides, and a set of extra wides. so will be using them.
No such thing as 2nd hand sunnies here in NZ, actually, no such thing as 2nd 4x4 tyres..when they get replaced they're knackered as

I knew of your road/diesel tax, but didn't know exactly how it woked. I have in laws over there!


Tim

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aussiemale

Just had a brainwave MQ, may see if the NZ army want them for their series 3 Landrovers LOL

---

You'll be out of luck there too...........they're 5 stud!!!!!


Tim

So you send them here, and I'll use them. And the way you feel about them you be happy to pay for shipping and look at as Responsibly Recycling them and pleasing your Kiwi Greenies.........................



hahahahahahahhah bloody HAAAAAAAH!!


Tim

Ummm Tim, you must have me confused with someone else, I have a petrol MQ and I'm pretty sure that they're not at the top of the greenies must own list Hahahhaaahhaha

Just a warning, I'll be playing in the man-cave on sat so will be busy with the camera.. and..may seem like spam HOWEVER I NEED PARTS!!! Flying to Syd for work and trying to score cheap but not cheap spacers for the MQ, if you can help, will barrack for your AFL team..even if it's the magpies!! Obviously will pay for them but need someone to flick to my sydney location when I'm there so I can take back with me
Bryan

My day in "the cave" removing the body mounts
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...00260256-1.jpg
From the front mounts, this one had me confused as the following pics will show, is this normal that the set up is like this? Only reason for asking is the MK only has a rubber thingie in between the chassis and the body.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260261.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260259.jpg
With the rubber thingie in place
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260260.jpg
after I've taken it out
I've decided to keep this rear "bumper bar" for two reasons..1st being it's made of solid steel..the 2nd...well..it's VERY non-pc LOL
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260264.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260267.jpg
BUT damn it was a biach to get to,
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260265.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260266.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260269.jpg
SUCCESS!! well, I may of used a hammer a couple of times
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260268.jpg
a lil bit of cancer that can be fixed without too much fuss.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260271.jpg
Problem with taking apart two Patrols is the amount of steel (yes steel, not that pussy aluminum crap in my garage) that one has to put somewhere
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260273.jpg
part two of the steel one collects LOL
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260278.jpg
Silver wagon that I cut the roof off..as you can see, have absolutely no idea of what I'm doing however the end result will look awesome
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260279.jpg
It was a high roof but cut that off, aim is to have a canvas top that has a awning type rope that goes into a groove at the windscreen that gets stretched back and held in place at the back with elastic straps (similar to utes) at the sides and back.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00260277.jpg
If you have enough of these the plan makes sense HAHAHA

The last pic is the major plan, isnt it ???
Drink as much as you can enjoy the build,if you stuff it up , blame the grog .....

Dont worry about the body rubbers, as i wrote in the other thread
Use the best top rubber,the ones between the body and chassis will get flicked when (and you will) go the body lift,that rubber will be replaced by the body lift blocks
Ensure you get the bolts with the body lift blocks, or if not get some , as the old body bolts will be too short and be scrap metal...

Have come across a couple of the subtle differences between the MQ and the MK.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00270281.jpg
MQ and it's round headlight
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00270282.jpg
hole behind the round headlights (yes I know..is the other one)
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00270287.jpg
The first subtle difference between the two..I thought it would of had the same template so am a bit miffed how to attach the round lights to this..either that or stay square but change to 12volt..thoughts anyone?
The other thing I was wondering is how hard is to to transplant the powersteering from the diesel to the petrol? Would it be just a matter of taking the fan and the twin pulley thingie off the diesel and swapping over to the petrol?
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00270292.jpg
diesel twin pulley thingie
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00270294.jpg
petrol single pulley thingie..matter of just swapping over?
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00270291.jpg
If it is a matter of swapping the powersteering over from this engine (the one above)
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00270296.jpg
where do you attach it??
Didn't realise there was so much different between the both engine set-ups. Alternator on the SD33T is on the passenger side, where as the L28s is on the drivers side. Is that going to be an issue with the Powersteering set-up?
The other difference I've found is it appears the MK sides have been strengthened
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00270297.jpg
the MQ with no support
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00270298.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00270301.jpg
couple of shots with the support..or that's what I think it is, please correct me if I'm wrong.

MQ..beer is on hand as soon as I put away my tools. One to dull the pain of the skinned knuckle and 2nd to put on my beer googles that make my project look like it's going to plan LOL
Having an absolute ball with this as this is my first project (wife has said it's also going to be my last). Wish I had more tools etc..all my work is being done with one basic socket set, screw driver set and a supercrap grinder LOL

The MQ/MK differences are explained in another thread, but IF you like could you post up the pics you have ,future reference for newbies

The wiring as i mentioned youll use whatever is from the petrol car,into the new replacement body
Alternator will stay on the engine, and the wiring harness youll swap over will take car of that
You can either use the rectangle lights or the round whatever you fancy , the round light slots can be modded to take the rectangle lights,but the petrol will be 12 V, so whichever lights you go, youll have to go 12V lights
The wiring plugs are different as well at the light,indicators and a few other areas, but go the full wiring swap and that headache is gone
The power steer,
Get the pulley and engine to power steer pump bracket of a petrol engine (there different), on the petrol it bolts to the engine head where the triangle plate is (pic 4 from the bottom pic above)on the engine at the front ,front of head
The power steer, pump box, hoses, pitman arm ect are a unbolt rebolt conversion , other than the bracket and pulley i mention
Leave the steer set up complete ,till you source the brackets you need, if theres no leaky hoses, just fit it up and your done
Ill have a look for the power steer brackets here,but postage could be a killer for you
Hope that helps

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MQ MAD

The MQ/MK differences are explained in another thread, but IF you like could you post up the pics you have ,future reference for newbies
You can either use the rectangle lights or the round whatever you fancy , the round light slots can be modded to take the rectangle lights,but the petrol will be 12 V,
Hope that helps

---

Thanks MQ, Posted pics on that thread so hopefully that helps others..wish someone had done that for me LOL
Round the other way around, rounds lights are to go into the square body..either way. I'm taking another steep learning curve.
If you could look at some prices for me, or would be be not too much of a hassle to get someone local to make one up from scratch.
Thanks for all your input MQ..do appreciate it as I'd be up that creek otherwise..well..still up it but at least I've got half a paddle now LOL

Which ever lights you decide you want, doesnt matter anything will fit,use the holes that the rounds fit ,amd from the back trace the hole on cardboard as a template and cut the slot to suit then
Just mod whatever to make them fit,you mite be lucky and they could be H4 lights, with removeable bulbs,if they are get whatever bulbs you need to suit the 12V system

Just had a look at my MK ute here , the body lift blocks do have the rubber on top of them
So from the chassis to the body, from the chassis up,it goes body block then body rubber,threw the body,then body rubber then washer and bolt

Just an update, project will be slowing down due to the FRIGGEN ICE STUFF on the grass which means it's friggen brass monkey days. When you go for a run in the morning, not from choice I may add as wife said my son could have a puppy so naturally I'm the one that takes it for it's morning run, and come back and do your cool down and you have your sweat friggen FREEZE on youR face. One sort of wants to sit on the fire 24/7. Tis coming clear on why the kiwi's over here love sheep..they're friggen WARM!!!!

Removed both radiators and got a bit of a shock with the hoses on the MQ (Petrol one), think the only thing stopping them falling apart was the rust that was inside the rubber hoses!! Radiator itself looks in good nick, the water was clean so not sure how the rust got all the way through. The heater connection for the bottom hose was corroded to hell so may swap the one over from the MK, assuming it's the same. Will worry about the thermo (god i'm sounding like I know what I'm talking about) and the bottom radiator hose outlet thingie from the motor (back to square one) when I've worked out how to remove the body to make the access a bit better. Bit gloomy today so pics didn't come out well so will take some more when the weather improves.

Got a few more pics but with a difference, each has a question as have not a clue
1st up there is a difference between both brake thingies
From the MQ
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00040314.jpg
From the MK
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00040313.jpg
Can they be interchanged and also the clutch cylinders as the MQ looks a bit corroded and there seems to be more involved with the MKs.

Next pics/question
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00040315.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00040316.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00040317.jpg
Obviously this is the steering, how/what do I need to do to unhook it all so I can remove the body. Do I undo it in the engine bay and pull through into the cabin, or do I do it the other way?

Finally, this is directed to those that are welders/panel beaters etc
the following photos are from the MK body that I'm keeping
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00040308.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00040309.jpg
Apart from the front (and a couple of other small areas) there isn't much rust, would it be easier to get this fixed up (fair amount in the front area) or to cut the front off the MQ that has no rust as per my next photo
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00040306.jpg
If it easier to cut, where would one cut, along 1 or along 2?
Would one cut by grinder then tidy up with snips?
Any thoughts/advice greatly appreciated.

Bryan

Man,its hard trying to describe over the internetweb thingy
The steering/ignition lock has 4 screws underneath,that the heads get broken when fitted (anti theft sorta stuff ???),the best way to undo them is with a flat screw driver and tap the screw around to loosen
Absolute pain in the ,well,behind
The steering colomn,undo at the steering coupler ,rubber thingy that bolts the steering colomn to the steer box,then undo the steering colomn under the dash,4 bolts from memory
The light combination set up in the steering coloumn will be different between MQ and MK,use whatever the petrol set up has
The brake booster is a 4 bolter ,bolted to firewall under dash, there will be a pin,clip on the shaft between the brake booster and the pedal, that has to be removed as well
Undo the brake lines first,clip,then the 4 bolts,itll come out engine bay side
The brake lines come out of the brake master on different sides,between MQ and MK , refer pics, that explains it
The clutch masters,mite be the same ,but from the pics one has the hydraulic dampener ???,use whatever the petrol car has as the slave cylinders will be different ,petrol/diesel are different
So whatever set up the petrol has , use it again
As for the choppin the front section,only IF yoiur compedant or someone else is,its a main body section between body mounts, not right and it could have issues
Just make up or use bits to repair small sectioons at a time
Cut bits from the body thats stuffed ,or not wanted to help repair sections of the one your keepin, recycling at its best

Thanks for that MQ, as for the cutting thought that may be the case, cutting would weaken it at that joint, most likely will cut what I need and marry up (read..will get someone else that has a clue).
With all the input you're giving MQ may need to change the MQs name from TANK to MAD TANK ..hmm..has a nice ring to it LOL

Just had a wee look at whats here,mite help ya ....
The steering coloumn has a fixed bracket on it that attaches to the dash via 2 bolts, the bracket is fixed to the coloumn and will interchange between the 2 bodies
On the steering coloumn it has a cylindrical thingy that bolts to the firewall, that cylindrical thingy is fixed to the coloumn also,and this needs to be unbolted from the firewall for the steer coloumn to be removed
Personally, unbolt the steer coloumn at the steer box, and leave it all attached in the body youll be using, then when the body is refitted to your desired chassis,youll only have to rebolt the coloumn to the steer box,and its done, plus fitting the ignition lock and the light combo switch,wheel stuff like that
Just check the wiring plugs on the ignition,some have a plug that clips straight to them, some are soldered to the ignition ,have a wiring tail then a clip/plug
If the wring will be interchangeable, youll get away with leaving the steer lock on the coloumn also
Ive used a 12V ignition in a 24V,and it works and still does, the ignitions were different as explained but the wiring fitted up no probs
Your temping me to do this exact conversion on a rig here,although the minister is cracking the poo ,with whats here (i love me ol daddos,arr nissans)maybe ill build her a better kitchen ....

well, think I'll be doing what you'd do and just unhook it at the steering box. An extremely long way off as only taking it slowly as don't want to turn the project into a chore as that'd ruin it for me. Lil bits here and there with plenty of beer interspersed but have always wanted to do something like this. Going to try and do as much as possible myself but ain't that stupid that I think that I can do everything..know when to take a back seat.
As much as I don't like to cause marital disharmony however think you should have a go at the conversion, not that I want to check out the pics and hell,...what's a kitchen between bushbashers LOL

Removed the dashs from both Vehicles and pulled the wiring loom from the engine bay into the cab. Will post some pics tomorrow, wish I took some before and after shots though as have a few loose ends I've got no idea wtf they go LOL.
Found more differences between the MQ/MK but have posted those pics on the MQ/MK differences thread to prevent double ups.
Got a dozen more cutting discs for the grinder.
Thinking of buying a welder but have no clue (sound familiar lol).
What would be the best to get ARC, MIG or TIG? don't need to know the tech names of them, just what one would be best for a guy with no idea..will have one body to practice on

Another day mucking about, removed the heaters from both
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00100352.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00100358.jpg
Had an incident with the windscreen
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00100367.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00100357.jpg

Have tomorrow off so will have a play with the grinder and hammer to tidy up this
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00100360.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00100361.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00100363.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00100365.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00100366.jpg
Expecting a fair amount of blood loss, skinned knuckles and a healthy dose of expletives

Welder, just get a gasless mig, can be had cheap as long as you get one that will do the job you want , dont need something that welds 50 mm plate,just a small welder

Mig deffinately, I'm a welder by trade and for someone with no experience it's the easiest to self teach and really practical

Awesome day off today
First up I cut off the roof of the MQ body (one that I'm throwing away)
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00110377.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00110379.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00110378.jpg
No real reason apart from the fact I played with a grinder, cut steel, made lots of sparks, seriously..the reason for cutting it off was I was getting "annoyed" the banging my head on the roof and apart from that now I can see what I'm doing with the extra light

Removed the last two bolts from the back of the patrol
Didn't need to cut as it's a fixed nut
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00110400.jpg
Took photos of everything I did step by step
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00110402.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00110401.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00110403.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00110404.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00110405.jpg

The rear bolt has the following configuration
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00110406.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00110407.jpg

Went to remove the key barrel however found that I was only able to take out 2 of the four bolts
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00100373.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00100372.jpg
the other two seem to have been filled in with something, any ideas on how to undo them.?