I have a 2010 GU8 CRD. Been doing lots of research and reading about NADS, ZD30 grenading etc. but still unclear about if my model Patrol requires NADS. Any info to clear this up would be handy. ;)
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I have a 2010 GU8 CRD. Been doing lots of research and reading about NADS, ZD30 grenading etc. but still unclear about if my model Patrol requires NADS. Any info to clear this up would be handy. ;)
Years 2000 - early 2003 mate. Yours is more than ok being a 2010.
Happy motoring old mate!!!
I personally wouldn't bother but lots have blocked the EGR, you need to drill a small hole in the block plate to stop the EGR errors. Or get a Scangauge to clear the errors.
The ECU controls the boost very well on these so dowes and needle valve is probably not needed. Definitely put a Provent catch can on if you have the room under the bonnet tho.
Thanks for the replies. :bigthumbup:
Will do a Provent catch can then. Have been looking at Scangauge II or the Ultragauge as the extra info/data would be beneficial to know and monitor.
Hi teach im in a similar situation i have the 08 GU CRD DX i have the blocking plate ready to install but everyone i talk to seems to think it can do more damage then good with the errors putting the vehicle into limp mode , i have also heard some people say you will need to put a hole in the blocking plate but then others say not to .
I have read lots on the scangauge II about clearing the errors , is it as simple as pushing a button ? Does it happen automatic? does it need to be done each time the car turns on ?
cheers
So, what you are saying is that there is no need for NADS for CRD motors. But as I understand it, Nissan Anti Detonation System consists of other components like an oil catch can.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigrig
Is the oil catch can not required for the CRD motor? Sorry for such a basic question - I'm only just coming up to speed with NADS and trying to understand if I can avoid such modifications buy buying a GU5 or later. I've worked out from some initial research through this forum that the GU 5 and later come with the CRD motor, and GU4 and earlier are fitted with the DI motor.
I am researching GU Patrols on behalf of a family member who is interested in purchasing one with an auto transmission. So I've been doing a lot of "catch up" research on the ZD30; please be patient with me asking questions that may be very well understood by this fraternity.
Mate, all the carbon and crap from the exhaust along with the oil vapour from the PCV is not a good thing for any engine, blocking the EGR on the CRD can be done and there are members here that would agree.
Just do a search and read some of the stories.
Cheers, the ferret.
Hi Ferret,
Thanks for your reply. I did read up the EGR blank and that's one modification that's going to be a given. But my query is regarding the oil catch can - is that required for a CRD motor?
I've been trawling through the CRD threads and I haven't seen any CRD owner install a catch can, but maybe I've not used the right search words.
Thanks!
Well that's a good that you are going to block the EGR, this will stop the carbon build up inside the Inlet manifold, step 1
The PCV allows oil vapour to mix with and cause the carbon to stick to the inlet manifold, step 2
Fitting a catch can stops most of the oil vapour entering the manifold.
Even after the engine is shut down, there is still oil vapour from the PCV inside the ducting that houses the MAF when not using a catch can.
This vapour sticks to the MAF and can send the wrong messages to the ECU, thus causing all sorts of problems regarding engine performance and fueling.
Whether it's a volks wagon or a Daimler, blocking the EGR is only a good thing.
Ya can take my word for it if you like or seek other opinions, you have my view on the system mods.
I have been known to be wr..........., sorry, can't say the word, ends in g tho.
Safe driving and enjoy your patrol.
Cheers, the ferret.
Here's ya inlet manifold at 150000ks with no EGR block and no catch can.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...rret/7-1-1.jpg
Hi Ferret,
Thanks for sharing that picture. It does look quite bad, and I've seen very similar pictures of Toyota diesel engines (D-4D 4 cylinder in Prado and D-4D V8 in Land Cruiser) exhibiting the exact same gunk build up.
I wonder how diesel specialists in European countries deal with this issue, because most EU countries have yearly emissions testing (MOT in the UK for example) and blocking off the EGR will only result in a fail during the annual check.
I am grateful that Australia has not introduced mandatory emissions testing, but I digress as that's another discussion along with environmental impact, etc. :1087:
Back on topic, so yes, fully agree CRD motor (any diesel motor fitted with EGR, really) will benefit from EGR block, and now you've explained that the CRD motor also requires an oil catch can.
Which leads me on to the next question: Is the catch can for a DI motor the same as for a CRD motor?
I did more reading last night on the Provent 200 catch can, but I didn't see any mention of it fitted to the crankcase ventilation circuit for CRD motors.
These pictures are all of the DI motors, from what I can tell:
http://www.exploroz.com/Utilities/sh...N800.jpg&w=500
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...012/05/173.jpg
Sorry, Can't answer that Question, I have never fitted a catch can to a CRD, others have tho.
I spose any good quality catch can would do the job, all it has to do is catch and treat the outlet from the crank case (PCV), running it back to the sump is your choice.
Cheers, the ferret.
The provent fits in the the same place as your second picture for a CRD. The inlet pipe is slighty different though. Can get some photos tonight if you're interested. Can thank NissPat,sorry, NissHead for my installs!
g'day teach, i too have the 2008 gu dx commonrail and i have installed a catch can which is a very easy DIY instal and judging by what is caught in there it has to be better than fouling your maf sensor. as for the egr block i bought one from the ferret on this forum but as yet have not fitted it because of the mixed reports i have read however today i spoke to one of the blokes from ROO SYSTEMS and he told me they instal about 3 every week and as yet have not had anyone complaining about fault codes coming up he reckoned it was not very common at all so after this advice i will be installing the egr. block as soon as i get the chance. also have you done the boost and egt gauges? if not this is also well worth doing! cheers....
Just do it mate, you will not do any harm but protect your inlet manifold. Give us some feed back if you get errors or not, if temps change, etc..ALL IS GOOD.
ferret plates are the best in the country mate...you need these :)
Great thread and input is very helpful :smiley_thumbs_up:
Will these items affect your warranty (I am sure the egr block would if they found it)?
Or do you wait until warranty over? Will they find it during servicing?
I thinks the EGR block etc is way to go, after seeing many posts of pre CRD motors.
Yes please :)Quote:
Originally Posted by teno45
I'm hoping to get a scangauge in the next few weeks after speaking to another bloke on here they sound go and easyer to install then the normal gauge and cover a lot more and great thread been looking for info like this on the crds for months thanks everyone
These should sort you out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew
http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/z...519_150946.jpg
http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/z...519_150958.jpg
http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/z...519_151007.jpg
http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/z...519_151026.jpg
Ps, Anyone know why the oil is this funny colour? Really not sure about it...
http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/z...519_151104.jpg
You'll get it on cold mornings. I am sure it is condensation mixing with oil. I used to get it a fair bit in winter.Quote:
Originally Posted by teno45
did you install the egr block ? if so did you get any errors
what brand it the catch can mate and where did you buy itQuote:
Originally Posted by Nisshead
Provent catch can, I got mine on eBay and the hoses from supercrapQuote:
Originally Posted by bushytas
I have recently installed one of ferrets EGR block plates on my 2012 GU8, Bit of a prick of a job, just make sure you have some decent length socket extensions to get to the bolts. Doesn't take to long if you have the right tools.
So far i have not had an error fault come up, i have the scangauge 2 there if it does. Can highly recommend getting a scangauge, well worth the money for all the info they give you access to.
After the block i have not seen much change in boost, seems the ECU is doing its job fine, highest boost i have seen is 15.5PSI, doesn't really seem to be any different to what it was before i blocked it.
I think it would probably void the warranty if they saw it was there, but if you are only taking your car in for a normal service its more then likely that an apprentice is doing it, you'll probably be lucky if they actually do all the things required in the service book let alone notice a barely visible steel gasket. Worst case if something was wrong in that area you could always take it out again.
Havent bothered with catch can but am now thinking about it as there was a fair bit of oily shit around the intake of the intercooler when i checked it when doing the EGR blank.
Highly recommend ferrets plate by the way, it is well made and he is a great bloke to deal with, delivered super quick to.
g'day champ any chance you could post some pics of where the bloody thing goes, have already bought the ferrets blocking plate just havn't shoved it in yet cheers....
Bit of an update,
Very cold morning dis-morning, around 1 Celsius, started the car and flicked on the idle up to let her warm up for 5 minutes before i left for work. Came back and the engine light was on, used scan gauge to check code, p0401, this is the insufficient flow to EGR, cleared code, no more engine light.
Grimace, ferret sent me through these pics, he must have forgotten to ask you if you need them,
ttps://picasaweb.google.com/100860892366057846763/EGRBlock?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Few tips, take the plastic shroud and intercooler off before you get stick into the EGR.
On the egr tube there is one bolt close to engine that bolts tube to engine and one bolt on opposite side that attachs a bracket with couple of pipes to the tube. Take this bracket of first to give you some working room so you can move the pipes. Then unbolt the tube from the engine, then unbolt the two bolts that hold the tube onto the actual EGR valve. Remove old gasket and slip ferrets in, i found easier to get the top bolt in first then do this up finger tight to hold it in place. At this stage i managed to drop the lower bolt when trying to get it back in, searched for over an hour but could not find it. I have ordered new bolts from a nissan dealer, part# is 14120AA, just in case anyone does the same. Then bolt tube and bracket back on replace intercooler and shroud and your good.
Take it for a drive and keep an eye on boost under a number for conditions just to make sure it isnt spiking above 15psi, mine never did but seems like others have. If it is you will need to adjust the VNT screw on the trubo to knock the boost down a bit.
Hi all. My 2009 Patrol Ute 3.0 CRD has recently thrown a P0405 fault code which is something to do with EGR valve or sensor fault so my mechanic (Repco) says so. The fault wont clear on there scan tool or it just resurfaces and they are trying to confirm (with help from auto elecs scan tool) that it actually is a stuffed EGR valve before they replace it. The car has no power and is blowing smoke feels like its in limp mode and is basically undrivable. I am ordering a Scan Gauge 2 myself as it seems the way to go on this vehicle as per threads i have read on here. Does anyone think that fitting an EGR blocking plate may help my situation? I'm no mechanic but have a basic understanding and have a friend that could help with install.
Thanks.
I think you will need to clear the code first to get it out of limp mode. If the egr system is faulty than the plate won't help.
.........on the move
Thanks. Will focus on getting it running properly first with no faults. Then look into an EGR blocking plate.
Does anyone have any pics of where the blanking plate fits on CRD?? There appers to be 2 places it could go from what i can see.
Cheers
Do a search mate, there is a few threads around with pics
All the stuff i keep finding is for a Di
Not the best pics but hopefully give the idea
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...013/04/170.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...013/04/171.jpg
Cheers, ill check it out today :)
to put the EGR block in, do you remove the two hoses in front of it ?
Great thread! Is this mod definitley worth it for the CRD? I thought all the problems with the old ZD30's were pretty non-existant with the latter model DI's and CRD's. I have just bought a 2008 CRD with 10000k on it but I plan on keeping it for a while and want to protect my investment.
Whats the compenents that you need for a CRD NADS kit?
CRD don't need NADS, the egr will circulate exhaust gas with particulates into your intake over time building up and restricting flow. Blocking egr stops this from occurring, it also reduces the annoying lag when you put your foot down.
To install you remove plastic shroud and intercooler. Then there is little bracket with couple of hoses attached to the egr pipe, remove bracket to enable hose to be flexed out of way. Then remove bolt on other side of egr tube where it bolts onto engine block. Then you can remove the two bolts that attach the actual tube to the intake into manifold. Blank goes in here I put gasket back on intake side as would prefer small amount of exhaust has leaking into engine bay then losing boost out the intake.
Takes about half hour to put in.
Not a bad idea if you plan on keeping car as I have seen photos of some manifolds from cars with 100,000km or so on em and you would be surprised howuch build up there is.
Mine throws engine light every now and then but if you have scan gauge you can clear the fault, p0405, in about ten seconds. Won't go into limp or anything just engine light comes on.
Awesome thanks mate, so the gear list should include the erg block plate, provent catch can and the scangauge II??
Been doing some more research on this mod this morning and this will definitley be one of the first things on the list!! Do you guys recommend fitting the boost and pyro guages before doing the EGR block? Is it critical on CRD?
I am going to do it eventually but I would prefer to get the EGR block in asap!