2012 Brakes

Hey Everyone
I've owned my amazing 2012 Patrol for about 2 years and 50,000kms. most of what I do is city driving for work and personal as it's my only vehicle. But I've done some off roading such as Fraser Is and some bush tracks. I'm sick of paying for servicing and want to do my own work as much as possible. I used to service all my cars in the past but not for a while. I'm about to replace my break rotors and pads and do an oil change. I have the parts I need but I don't know if I have all the tools. Other than standard wrenches, spanners clamps etc is there any thing else I will need?

Welcome to the forum mate.

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Originally Posted by fatnakedbaldtibetanman

Hey Everyone
I've owned my amazing 2012 Patrol for about 2 years and 50,000kms. most of what I do is city driving for work and personal as it's my only vehicle. But I've done some off roading such as Fraser Is and some bush tracks. I'm sick of paying for servicing and want to do my own work as much as possible. I used to service all my cars in the past but not for a while. I'm about to replace my break rotors and pads and do an oil change. I have the parts I need but I don't know if I have all the tools. Other than standard wrenches, spanners clamps etc is there any thing else I will need?

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Easy job, you won’t need any special tools.

I just changed my front rotors, the most useful part was a block of wood between the ground and the wheel studs to lock up the wheels as I cranked the hub bolts.

It is a good thing to do it on stands instead of a jack. Not that I wouldn't do it on the jack if that was the only way I had, LOL.

And the block of wood to sit behind the brake pedal, so you don't make the master cylinder travel past its normal range when bleeding air out of the system. There is a possibility that you'll snag the piston rubber on rust or debris and cause a fluid leak.

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Originally Posted by mudnut

And the block of wood to sit behind the brake pedal, so you don't make the master cylinder travel past its normal range when bleeding air out of the system. There is a possibility that you'll snag the piston rubber on rust or debris and cause a fluid leak.

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That's good info too, I didn't know about that.

When i changed my pads I used a brake piston compressor which just pushes the piston back in without the need to bleed, you just have to keep an eye on the level at the master cylinder and suck a bit out if needed.

Its more for when you push the pedal to the floor to bleed the air, when fluid is changed. I only learnt the trick from a guru on this forum.