How to properly hoist a TB45 out of a GU?

Hello everyone.

When I picked up my used TB45, I noticed it didn't had those "eyelets" for you to attach a chain or a hoist hook to hoist it. I have just run the chain carelessly around the exhaust and super carefully around the intake monitoring for the injectors to not hold any weight. Engine went up (and later went down) a bit crooked when loading and unloading for transport, but that was it.

Now, for me to remove the current TB45 installed in my GU, I need a more consistent way of hoisting it, otherwise it will come out crooked and will be hard to find its way out without touching the body. Also, when dropping the new engine in, I need to have it straight otherwise I anticipate it to be quite a hassle to align the bolts, etc.

I know, I know, overthinking kills happiness, but what would be the proper way of hoisting this anvil of an engine so that it comes out and drops in as straight as possible?

I made an engine hoist jig to lift my RB30 onto a stand. A piece of 1.5" thick wall pipe, with two pieces of angle. One bolted each end to form an 'I'. Had holes drilled on each end of the angle. I used a combination of small D shackles and cut 4 pieces of chain to different lengths so that the engine sat at the correct angle when lifted. I welded a a bit of angle along the top of the pipe with a series of holes so the lift point could be adjusted to suit the centre of gravity.
Last I cut and drilled 4 bits of angle to attach at each bit of chain so that they could be bolted to a couple of inlet and exhaust manifold studs each.

Or you can order something similar on line.

That seems easy enough to manufacture. Thanks for the drawing.

On the other hand, I've been watching some videos on YT from a bloke (Skid Factory) changing a TB45 to a TD42, and he just strapped some old seatbelt to the engine and hoisted it like a champ... go figure...

No experience with the petrols, but with the two eyes on the TD42...

Forget straight. Unless you have/fabricate a removable rad support. The trick is getting the angle on the dangle:
it helps to have two 1/3tonne chain blocks, one for each mount, under your main suitably rated four-way remote control gantry (i wish).
A third (tie down strap or rope will do) on the power steering bracket/inlet manifolt, to stop it tilting over helps as well.

Take the weight slightly nose-high; lift on your main to take weight off suspension etc; remove the engine mounts; then lower the engine all the way into the chassis - which gives you easy access to the top bellhousing/starter bolts;

Level engine again and lift enough to -just- take weight off gearbox mounts, then jack the front of the gearbox up a -nudge- and it should pop.

Then you want to go engine forward, until you clear the g/box pilot shaft, twist engine to passenger side, bringing nose-up/arse down enough for viscous hub to clear the rad support, tail will drop down under your vacuum boosters, then haul up on your main block.

It can be done single handedly (AMHIK) but it does help to have an assistant and a few lengths of 3x2 around for levering.

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Originally Posted by BrazilianY60

That seems easy enough to manufacture. Thanks for the drawing.

On the other hand, I've been watching some videos on YT from a bloke (Skid Factory) changing a TB45 to a TD42, and he just strapped some old seatbelt to the engine and hoisted it like a champ... go figure...

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Been there, done that in my younger years. Made the jig because I had the scrap on hand and being older and buggered, it just made sense to not have to struggle to move the engine around, even though I had a mechanic fit the new engine anyway.

on the supacheap website , there is a engine crane leveler in the engine cranes section . around $70

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Originally Posted by nipagu7

on the supacheap website , there is a engine crane leveler in the engine cranes section . around $70

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One costs AUD 280 over here at the current exchange. So, the order of the day is, creativity!

These are pics of my TB45 coming out that show the front & rear eyelets for lifting. The engine leveller helps a lot.

Attachment 86390


Attachment 86391

Lifesaver John!
Had to go to the garage to check, hahaha.

The one on the front is there, holding a bracket with hoses and such. Never took it for an eyelet! The one on the back is not there, though. Well, this is talking about the new engine. Supposing the one on the car has it, I would move to the new engine before going in. Thanks.

Also noticed the foam board protecting the radiator. So, if you manage to protect it, is there room for the engines to go out and in? I was contemplating removing the radiator, draining, etc.

I've been watching some "DIY load leveler" videos on YouTube. I like the idea of one made out of an old car jack. I´ll see if I any of my friends has a junk one laying around that I can cut.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIhFPZlc-kk

Radiator and shroud were taken out. Foam was protecting the A/C condenser but it was too thick so 2nd pic shows I replaced it with a thinner board.