How to bleed/flush clutch

Hiya
Never done this before so could you please tell me how to bleed and flush the clutch cylinders/lines and tell me if there is a secondary clutch cylinder also.

Cheers in advance
Brett

Gday,
From ur photo, assume u have a GQ. Had to replace the clutch line few weeks ago. was a mongrel.
The clutch line has a tee piece/block in it, so line goes from the master cylinder to the clutch cylinder, but also about halfway down the tee comes off and goes to another bleed nipple near the top of the engine bay. There is also a bleed nipple on the clutch cylinder (on the bottom passenger side of the motor).
Normally, have someone assist you pump on the clutch 3-4 times, and then hold it down. crack the bleed nipple open and release the pressure, air etc, then tighten it back up and get your assistant to let their foot off the clutch and repeat the process. Keep an eye on the reservoir though, 4-5 times of doing this can drain it, if it sucks air you will be back to square one.
Now the reason i mention the Tee block in the line earlier, is because they have a nasty habit of letting the fluid through and seem to be bled, but they trap air, when letting your foot off the clutch sucks it back through the block. After trying to bleed it for 2 1/2 hrs, got it so the car would idle in gear but wants to creep forward, and cant change gear when stationary, only when moving (think dog box). Got a good mechanic to look at it, and had the same problem, upon consulting the local brake/clutch man, told us was a common problem and to throw the factory line in the bin, and changing the line with another that didn't have the tee block in it, so went straight from the master cylinder to clutch cylinder, plus these lines are about $20 cheaper than the original ones.
Runs Awsum.
Hopefully this was helpful and stops some dramas for u.

Cheers

Chttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?771-gq-3l-having-trouble-bleeding-clutch.&highlight=bleeding+clutch check this out here on the forum mate

I'll try again
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...leeding+clutch Try this mate

Old thread but I will dredge it to add what I know (have learned)

Never before encountered problems bleeding, not of course until I'm 500 miles from home!

I bent the "cushion" side (top air bleed, by diesel filter) so as the coil is now horizontal and the line is all up-hill, which is the way air likes to go relative to liquid.

All components except master cyl are new (HD clutch plate, pressure plate, throwout fork+bearing, slave cylinder, vacuum booster...)

The symptom was good pedal feel +engagement when off, but loose and unable to select gears while engine running.
If vehicle started with clutch pressed and in gear then it would not move, ie, the clutch works.

Solution (so far) is to change engagement on vacuum-master push/actuation rod. Factory spec is -1.3 to -1.4mm. I have cranked this out to +0.8 or so, which slightly preloads the master cyl plunger.
Haven't taken it far yet. and I'm aware that if the plunger doesn't come back far enough then it wont allow fluid to return to the reservoir, causing the bearing to constantly engage the pressure plate....
will let y'all know in a few hundred KM