zd30 crd intermitant starting issue, nats? fuel?

hi,
so recently my patrol has been not starting.
battery is good as the car cranks but no start i thought not getting fuel.
i checked dtc's and got p1615 which is nats key issue which would be related to 2-3 weeks ago i got a new key added to the system i did it at work (nissan dealer) i failed the first time and im guessing the dtc stored in the computer and then i managed to get it to program.

the transponder is a genuine nissan one.
im wondering is the stored dtc of p1615 could have been causing the intermittent start issue.
ive cleared the code time will tell now.
also i thought that the fuel supply was an issue because i felt the primer bulb was soft so i added in a check valve before and after and still feels the same.

going forward i will see if the issue still comes up and if it doesnt start ill check the nats led light on the dash and see if its on and not starting if so i know its key/nats related if the light is off and still wont start then fuel is my guess?

see the photo bellow, the green arrow pointing to that end of the fuel hose is loose, i mean i can grab it and twist the hose. could this be cause air leak?
it originally had the nissan crap clamp and i put a worm one on and tightened it to the max and still hose can be twisted.. and after that i still have this starting issue. might nee new hose?
this hose is only a return line though as far as i can see.

any input or ideas would be good
thanksAttachment 76488

just wanted to bump this up, also update ive managed to tighten the hose clamp and the hose is now tight and wont move.

Unless Im reading the pic wrong that hose is coming from the fuel filter so its not a return line. If you can spin the hose, its lose and will possibly give issues. whats that non return valve for that I can see to the left of the pic?

the non return valve you see in the lft of the image is from tank to primer bulb. i was working on the assumption that the valve inside the primer was letting fuel drain back.

the hose with the green arrow is coming from the engine to the fuel filter as a return line for un-used fuel. it returns to the tank unless its cold then then the warm diesel goes back into the fuel filter to prevent freezing..
thats what the nissan workshop manual says anyway.

so far i haven't had the issue of cant start since fitting the one way vavle before and after the primer, cleared the dtc of p1615 and also fixed the loose hose clamp.
still early days yet.

it was doing it with
full fuel tank and low tank aswell
on hills pointing down and up.
engine cold and hot.

im hopeful this issue is gone but if it returns i will update this.
if its fixed then others might benefit from this.

ok so update on this starting issue, as above i recently got a new ket and chip from ebay and put the genuine key transponder in it for the nats.
my starting issue returned and that nats light was constant on while cranking.
pulled the key out and tried again not good
turned the key 180degrees and it started. got the dtc back p1615

so the key wasnt detecting.

i opened my remote and tried to push the transponder deeper into the cavity so itll be closer to the end of the key. i got it in an extra half mm.
my idea is the transponder will sit closer and might read better now.

this issue is now 100% nats related in my eyes, if im wrong or people have ideas tell me.
i do remember that i couldnt code the ebay supplied transponders in this ebay key hence i used my genuine one but it wouldnt work on first try i had to flip it around to back it work. i think its an alignment issue between the ring and the reader.
being intermittent i could use my spare 100% nissan factory key and if if works for a month without fault then i would be able to rule out other factors and the finger will be pointing to the ebay remote..

all this just because i wanted a flip key haha

so after some time with using the flit key only one way (they was it seemed to not fail) its failed and i turned it and worked. so the issue is in both dirrections.
i had a slightly different dtc now p1614.
as a test i half folded the key and thats is enough to move the transponder about 5mm away from the reader and every time it doesn't detect.
my plan is the use the original key for afew weeks and see if a get the no start issue.

it could be that the ebay key is just not in the right spot to be read.
i dont have any weight hanging off the key either.

Bloody hell. All this for a flip key....

yeah its looking like its not worth it hoping this helps someone. dont buy a non genuine remote.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fireblade

yeah its looking like its not worth it hoping this helps someone. dont buy a non genuine remote.

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Remote or key? I have a non gen remote kit and its way ahead of the genuine remote crap. Actually my keys are non gen too. But I went to a locksmith, not your shopping centre "locksmiths", with the key code from Nissan and they cut a brand new key and with new transponder chips.

Attachment 76808

this is what i got, coded the remote myself easy as no issues there. got the key cut at a lock smith using the key code. that works great.
the supplied transponder that came with the key never coded i tried many times
(i work at a nissan dealer so i have access to the workshop coding tools)
so i used the transponder from my old key that use the work no issues at all. then i found an old transponder and put that back in my old key and coded the 3 remotes to my car.

i now have my two old nissan keys and this one new ebay key.

all work in every-way except this flip key sometimes doesn't shut off the nats.
time will tell if the original key has now got this issue but i think its purely the flip key at fault. i was thinking i might open it up and carve out the slot for the transponder so it can be pushed closer to the tip of the remote to get better proximity to the reader.