Any new developments with nads?

Hi all.
I have been tinkering with the missus's gu2 zd30 and the fotment of nads, and interested if there have been any new learnings in this regard. Main reason for posting is tgat pretty much everything I've read is from many years ago.
1st, a bit of history.. I bought the gu a few months back and it came fitted with a 15psi boost gauge (rattling pos😁), dawes, catch can, 3" exhaust, and after later investigating.. egr block.
I have since added SAAS dual guages for 30psi boost/egt and oil pressure/coolant temp, and today fitted manual boost control.
The car was using the factory boost solenoid with the well documented boost fluctuations and highish egts.
Since fitting the manual control and adjusting (following forum advise and online vids) it is better/consistent but I cannot set my boost higher than about 8psi without hitting limp. Now my main question (after reading what I could re voltage modifying the maf) is, what kits are currently available as the jaycar one seems to be now discontinued.
So, sorry to bring up an old topic, but just interested in knowing if there has been any new developments or new products that people are using?

Tia
Col

I'm sure someone here will have a fix for you mate .

You can get an ecu remap for the Di now. East Coast performance tuning do a postal remap for around $700 with egr disable and limps removed. Way easier than messing with voltage modifiers, and you get a bonus performance tune (no chip required).

Hope that helps

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trev zd30

You can get an ecu remap for the Di now. East Coast performance tuning do a postal remap for around $700 with egr disable and limps removed. Way easier than messing with voltage modifiers, and you get a bonus performance tune (no chip required).

Hope that helps

Cheers

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I will just add to this my take on remaps for the Di motor. Its very limited to egr disable, no limp and IP pressure increase. Unlike the CRD motor, the CRD has timing options, rail pressure options and more.
In my opinion, for the Di, it would be better to blank the EGR, spend some time researching on how stop limp mode which can be done simply by adding a resistor into the MAF loom. Dont ask me exactly how, as I cannot remember. But some googling will certainly come up with the answer. Unless another member knows. Also be patient and look for a second hand chip and your set.
As for the NADs. The Dawes and needle valve is still pretty much what it is. Apart from a few design changes.

Thanks Mudski.
It seems I have all the nads options covered then. It does have the egr blocked etc so just tge limp issue when I increase boost. I shall keep looking into the resistor for the maf.
Thanks eveyone for taking the time to reply 👍

do you have a needle valve. even with the dawes valve set at low boost you maybe getting a sudden boost spike that might be causing limp mode.

Thanks nipagu7.
Yes, fitted manual boost controller yesterday.
It drives ok and egts are better but definitely would like to see them lower still and more boost.
Im not after a racing car, this one is my missus Patrol so mainly want reliability and to some degree economy. It does also need to tow a car trailer at times.
It's a great car but still just ironing out a few bugs as we only bought it about 3 months ago.

sorry, just re read your original post. the dawes valve lets you set the level of boost you want and the needle valve controls the rate the turbo spools up, but they are both interlinked to some degree. if you close the needle valve too much the boost may not reach the level you previously set. it can take a bit of fiddling to get it set where you want it. without doing anything like modifying the maf signal to stop limp mode, you probably wont be able to go over about 16 psi boost. so if you set your dawes for about that then adjust the needle valve in to just past the point of where you no longer get limp mode you should be making a good amount of power and torque. it took me an hour to get it in the approximate range and then every couple of days i would give either the dawes or needle valve a slight tweek until i had it set where i want it. usually when i adjusted one i then had to adjust the other. the higher the boost, the more i had to close the needle valve. the needle valve is very sensitive and responds noticeably to minute adjustments. all up it took about two weeks. i havent touched it since . if you reduce the amount of boost with the dawes valve you may need to open the needle valve up somewhat or the turbo will not spool up fast enough. i would suggest getting it to the point of spooling up as fast as you can but still being able to drive the vehicle comfortably.

HPD do a HI flow MAF sensor housing which will help eliminate limp mode. These work on the Di's. My Di would limp at 16psi on the dot. I then fitted the housing and icould run the needle off the boost gauge, 30psi, and still not get limp mode. Easier that wiring, but a crap load more in cost than a resistor.