Any feed back regards accessing oil pressure sensor from above on 08 CRD (RHS) located above starter motor. Thinking of going in from the from top of motor. Propose to remove fuel filter to get at it to remove OME sensor and install VDO "T" adaptor in block port, re-use sensor fitted in the end of "T" and put VDO sender (elec) in side of "T", Any thoughts or comment based on experience.
I think coming up from below looks tight. Thanks
Nope.
Added mine to the sensor below the turbo.
So much easier to get to..
bigguwesty, thanks for input. Is your engine a CRD (post 2007)? Understand that the port on the (LHS) eg:passenger side on the GU CRD is for the safety switch and the Nissan 2007 Y61-CRD-TM1 states that: (you may realize the following and consider that either take off point is OK?):
"Engine Oil Pressure measurements are to be taken from the RH Rear of the engine after the removal of the
Oil Pressure SENSOR. DO NOT confuse the Oil Pressure SENSOR with the Oil Pressure Switch located
on the LHF of the engine next to the Oil Filter." Switch used to signal when there is close to zero oil pressure.
Not sure if placement does influence actuals measured?
If Interested - Update of VDO Oil Pressure Gauge Install from above: Nothing to loose, went in for the oil sensor near starter motor from top of engine, . Wanted to avoid having to remove starter motor just to fit a VDO adaptor "T". Will retain the original sensor and fit a VDO (elec) sender unit to obtain actual oil pressures. Have experienced the dilemma associated with loss of oil pressure and spun mains. This mod is to enhance the fitting of NADS. Have all necessary bit and pieces to go ahead: 3" Berkley SS exhaust, Dawes & Needle valve, VDO Gauges for EGT & Boost, EGR plate(will fit @ EGR pipe flange / exhaust manifold interface).
Anyway, left starter motor fitted, then from top of engine went ahead and removed fuel filter (tucked pipes out of the way), removed OEM sensor elec connection, went under vehicle with open ended spanner removed OEM Sensor and THEN fitted VDO adaptor "T" from above. To fit OME sensor in end of adaptor "T" (1/4" BSP): removed top hex bolt from starter motor (from above) with a modified ring spanner (cut the other end off so I could slide a pipe over shank of ring spanner to obtain greater leverage) & removed the angle bracket that was secured in place by this bolt. The bracket is used to secure (zip tie) a wiring loom and the elec connection to OEM sensor unit. I modified this bracket (cut top corner off nearest to engine block as it was fouling the hex profile on the OEM sensor when being screwed into end of VDO adaptor "T". Will proceed when bracket paint dries. All going well.
Job all done - By only removing fuel filter (left starter motor fitted). Posted method of attack for those interested.
I wanted to avoid removing starter motor to install the VDO adaptor T for fitting VDO sender in side (1/8"NPT) and OEM Sensor (1/8"BSP) in the end.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...re-guage-setup
Anyway: Removed fuel filter and tucked fuel lines out of the way. Disconnected OEM Sensor elec connector, then from underneath used an open ended spanner and removed OEM Sensor. From Top removed starter motor top Hex bolt with a modified flat faced ring spanner so to slide a steel tube over spanner shank / handle to obtain adequate leverage. The cable restraining bracket held in place by this starter bolt was modified to allow for the hex profile on the OEM sensor to clear the bracket top face when screwing it into the end of T adaptor.
With senor removed, fitted VDO T adaptor in sensor port hole (located position and torqued up from under vehicle), positioned side hole (hex flat) facing toward front of engine (slightly facing down) so the VDO Sender unit would clear starter motor housing when fitted. Then (from top) replaced top starer motor bolt and modified cable support bracket then fitted OEM Sensor (bit of mucking around with an open ender spanner ON Sensor but torqued up fine). Ran down some split conduit with cable and hooked up to the VDO Sender. Replaced OEM Sensor elec connector and secured (zip tie) the three cable conduits to the modified starter bracket. Replaced Fuel filter -Job Done.
Hope it helps some. Its always better when it is behind you.:groupwave:
Now for the NADS, should be beneficial (have all bits to go): 3" Berkley SS pipe, ProVent 200 CC, EGR Plate/placement at Exhaust manifold, VDO Boost / EGT, Dawes and Needle Valve (Dawes and Boost take off at MAP sensor/IC). Have Scan gage in place and fitted new TIG welded intercooler.
Well it does work lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Yea mine is 08 crd. I should actually get it tested against a propper gauge.
I was told by a few that the zd doesnt actually read pressure on either sides, but only run a simple pressure switch..
I fitted oil pressure sender at sensor port as it was wrote in the Nissan trg manual. Maybe the switch side is tapped into the oil sump pickup line if the switch detects near zero oil. The switch take off port placement is just a guess as I have not checked out the oil route schematic dwgs. The pressure differential should not be too great if any. It would be interesting to see the two pressure readings you get though.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
If you wish, take some pressure (switch port/LHS) readings at various revs and I can throw up what I get at Sensor port (RHS). Both engines being same build/year and we can only assume similar running wear condition and both using VDO elec (would be good). I have not yet hooked up to the gauges as propose to mount all 3 gauges (centre dash top) at same time. Fitted 3" Exhaust and EGT pyro yesterday and tomorrow having my moon crater dash replaced (supplied under warranty but I pay Nissan fitting-can't complain after 9yrs). Then Boost at MAP sensor/IC.
Yea we can.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
I have tried to push for dash but got laughed at lol.
A few guys reckon its a 2 - 3 hour job so once were sick of it ill give it a crack myself.
Patrol a part have them for around $600 now..
Hi Forum......my oil/water gauge doesnt seem to work. The oil needle jerks once in a while, but remains past MAX. I think this is a misreading.
The water temp needle doesnt seem to move at all.....
Any ideas?
Crank up a new thread to get problem specific feedback, up to you. Provide details of the gauge type.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oceaxyannek
From your description it could be a dual function electric type gauge (I'm guessing) and if the both read parameter are faulty it could be the way its wired up or gauge itself is suspect.