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Where do I get a gu door seal kit from and should I install myself or should I get it done professionally as I don't want water coming into the car again. If I do it myself should I run a bead of Selastic behind the seal in-between the seal and the door
I'd try patrol a part
To be honest new door seal probably wont stop water coming in. Not going in deep bog holes with though. Lol. Unless your door seals a really stuffed, new seals will help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muskee84
Have a look around the body you will see joins, water will seep in via these joins, theres also a shipload off plugs in the floor, rubber and plastic. Pressure wash underneath the car and then spend some time under there with some decent silicone. I thought mine were all good until I lifted the carpet and there was rust marks around most of the plugs. Not a lot, but water was getting in.
You might struggle to make the cab totally water proof.
Yeah no more bog holes but still want to do river crossings
Just don't stop and you will be fine. We did 30 odd crossing last cup weekend in one day, not a drop off water in the car. Only from what got in the open windows.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muskee84
Check the firewall grommets too mate. The force of the water against the firewall when moving forward will get through any, unsealed rubber.
To change all the door rubber on a GU you would be looking in excess of $600 too.
Yeah the door seals look fine. Is there anyway to make the door latch grab the tighter. The cars 14 years old so they maybe getting a bit loose. I've silasticed all the holes in the rear of the wagon were the gas installer had done some butchering. Drilled a big hole through the fuel pump check panel. And drilled some holes to mount the tank. All been filled and new cover fitted. Just got to go over the rest of the car
There are flaps of rubber, which don't even cover the holes behind the front kick panels, which will also let water in if you sit too long. Door seals themselves are generally pretty good, as there are double seals for the most part.
I have never done any extra sealing, and I have never had any water in the cab - as long as you keep moving, and have the cab pressurized with the fan blowing in air it just doesn't happen.
Door latches can be tightened a little by undoing the 4 screws that hold the latch receiver plate to the door pillars, so they are loose but still holding the latch in place, and then push the door closed - put a little extra pressure on it, and then lift the handle to release .... then retighten and carefully check that the door opens and closes nicely with the latch in its new position. You can also mark around it with a non- permanent marker to check to see if it has moved at all.
Also the strikers can move in a mm or two.Quote:
Originally Posted by happygu
With pressurizing the cab too. I seen on a vid of some expert saying to have the air on recirculate with the fan on high. Lol. That will do jack. Have it on fresh air and fan on full if your worried. That will increase cabin air pressure a little. Recirculate wont at all. It will just, recirculate.
here is a link so you can see the prices
http://www.atocauto.com.au/Products.asp?cat=10