RB30 Patrol auto choke repair

Hey guys,
This is how I managed to repair the thermostatic auto choke of the RB30 Patrol Nikki carby.
It's a fairly easy and quick fix, but can be improved.
I did it in a hurry, but pretty sure this works well.

Basically, this was a bad design. Simply the factory way of attaching the heater element disk
onto the bi-metal spring assembly is not that good. It's a some kinda metallic conductive glue or a brazing method, but comes off over time due to heat and vibration. Once it falls off from it's location, it simply rattles inside and doesn't do anything. So, if you hear the plastic auto choke unit has a rattle when you remove and give it a shake, it's 100% sure that it is not working. I suspect it is the case for many RB30 Patrols auto chokes out there, and they are running rich and the fuel economy is suffering as a result of that. So, I reckon this post is useful to many RB30 Patrol Nikki carby model fans out there.

If anybody has any ideas of how to improve the way the heater element disk attaches to the bi-metal spring, do post some ideas, please.

Special thanks to Rodney(Yendor) for donating his valuable time with advice & tips during my effort to understand the mechanics+electrics behind the auto choke system in RB30 Patrol. Without his help, I would still be scratching my head.

Nice write up Dom. Got it back on the car? Sorted the issues?

Hey Chris,
I'm just doing it. I'm using both carbies to make a one reliable, non hiccup carbie. I'll see how it goes. :)
Both carbies are spread around on the table in pieces. Both are being redone, cleaned & lubed and while using the better parts to make an overall
better carby. I'm doing it slowly while trying to understand more about this particular carby build.

The video I pasted on this thread shows how bad the stock carby throttle body is.
I had to compare it with the spare carby throttle body to realize how bad it is. Unfortunately for me, there is no easy, quick solution for me there, as in the above choke repair thread.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...tle-shaft-play

I suggest you do the "rattle test" asap to find out whether your choke heater is "dislocated" as well.
Undo the 3 bolts and hold it on your hand give it a gentle shake. If rattle, then it doesn't do anything.
Do the direct 12V test as well. Immediate result of stuffed auto choke is the poor fuel economy, then if the carby has other issues as well as other
ignition issues, it can wreak havoc.

Cheers
Dom

Another method of gluing the heater disk to the bimetal spring assembly is using a paste similar to the factory silver paste as in the picture and as in the link below.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/0-2ML-Sil...157&rmvSB=true

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wire-Glue.../141788653328?

Then, if it's strengthened with epoxy glue, it may hold it. It's better to use longer curing time epoxy(like 24-48 hours) and not put it together and use it until the epoxy completely bond to the bi-metal spring.