I'm looking to buy another patrol and need advice

Hi Guys,
This question will raise a lot of debate, but I am looking to sell my current heavily modified 1994 GQ 4.2L UTE for a wagon (I need the extra seats) that will be used for towing and will be automatic. Is there a preferred year to get and years/models to avoid? I know the 4.2L is definitely the better engine. But if none of the 4.2L are available what would be the best alternative? I have read the early 3.0L models can be time bombs, what year did this this get sorted 2005-2006???
Cheers

For what its worth, I have two 4.5 GRX's (one kitted out for the bush and mountains and the other for seven seated family fun) and am extremely happy with both. Reliability is excellent and fuel consumption not at all bad. Getting around 16l/100k on the open road and around 22 in low range sand. From a DIY maintenance perspective stick to petrol unless you're a diesel fundi.

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Originally Posted by Tigger77777

Hi Guys,
This question will raise a lot of debate, but I am looking to sell my current heavily modified 1994 GQ 4.2L UTE for a wagon (I need the extra seats) that will be used for towing and will be automatic. Is there a preferred year to get and years/models to avoid? I know the 4.2L is definitely the better engine. But if none of the 4.2L are available what would be the best alternative? I have read the early 3.0L models can be time bombs, what year did this this get sorted 2005-2006???
Cheers

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I have a 2005 GUIV 3.0 direct injection and have no issues with time bombs. I believe it was sorted by the GU III. After that they go to the Common Rail, and reading this and other forums they seem to have issues of their own (expensive water leaks ).

Tigger,

I used to have a GQ 4.2 with a Safari Turbo, and absolutely loved it ......

I have since owned 2 Di's and 2 CRD's and do everything that I used to do with the 4.2 and more.

There is a learning period between the 4.2 and the 3 litre engines, as you need to drive the 3 litre to achieve the same results .... you cant just get out and walk beside the truck up a hill like you could with the 4.2 ..... keep the 3 litre around 2000 rpms at all times when climbing and it is all good.

Also get used to stalling a bit till you adjust to the new driving style.

Things you will love in the 3 litre .... slightly better economy, better road manners for driving in traffic ( better acceleration / more carlike ), the auto, the big one 10000 klm servicing

Things you will hate ..... the lack of off boost torque


After owning all three types, I prefer the CRD over all, even though they dont go as hard as the later Di's.

I would try to buy the latest 3 litre you can afford ..... look around 2005 onwards, but try to get CRD if possible. I never have had an issue with any of mine, Di or CRD

Here are my findings with my 3 litre trucks
2001 75,000 klms no issues, but traded to avoid any problems, and I would stay away from these depending on what has happened with the motors in the interim.

2003 127,000 klms no issues, was going to keep but sold to a customer of mine as he kept annoying me about wanting to buy it. He still has it, and it must be getting to around 300,000 klms as last time I asked a while ago it was over 270,000. This one was an absolute beast, and went really well.

2008 CRD 98,000 klms no issues and was going to keep it but I busted an air conditioner pipe in the engine bay which needed repair, I wanted Sat Nav and a Reversing Camera, and this was all going to cost around 2 grand to do and I was made an offer I couldnt refuse to buy a new one

2011 CRD 70,000 klms no issues ...... will keep now

I sold my '07 CRD with nearly 160,000 K's on it.
It had an extended full factory warranty (6 years) which saved me many '000s of dollars.

On an equal footing a CRD will always outperform a Di.
By that I mean if you mod the exhaust on one, you do the other.
The CRD's produce more power ex factory than a Di and that is even at the expense of the additional anti-pollution tweaks on the CRD's.
Once you start mods you can get some really good improvements albeit not exactly legal

I would not recommend any version of ZD30 for heavy towing unless you use Grey Nomad mode
Lighter towing, say, max of 1200 Kg then yeah it is doable but boy do they hate hill starts or starting off from traffic lights etc

Maintenance wise the shoe is on the other foot and the later Di is better.
A set of CRD injectors will almost buy a new crate motor and a set of injectors and a pump will give you change.
In fairness that is not just a Nissan thing, obscene costs for CRD fuelling gear is across all manufacturers.

I loved my CRD but I would be hesitant to recommend one that age because of the potential service costs.
Indeed that was the only significant reason I sold mine.