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Where are the fusable links situated on a GQ patrol?
When I first got the Old Trol, I replaced some crappy wiring (heat related) just near the positive battery terminal.
After reading that a GQ has fusable links, I am wondering if I replaced the fusable wires with ordinary copper. What amperage links should I replace them with?
Bumpity bump....
I'll have to have a look
I had a fusible link on my last vehicle and it caused me grief at 4 years (looked all shiny outside but heavily corroded inside)
Replaced it with a self resetting relay and had no more problems
Regards
Joe
Hey mudnut, I'm looking for some info on the fusible links too. Since I've rewired my batteries, and my new battery tray holds my starter battery. Turns out the small wires I extended to my new battery are the fusible links, ooops...
I'm guessing you mean the 3 fusible links connected to the positive terminal of the battery, on mine, (1993 RB30 GQ), there is black, brown and green, connected to the pos terminal of the battery via a bolt on fitting joining to plastic connectors at the top of the bunch of connectors and wires on the firewall end of the standard battery. I've had a few pieces of conflicting info today, one said to wire in the new style fusible links, and colour coding suggested the black is 80 amp, brown is 50 amp and green is 40 amp. This sounded reasonable, so I bought the new style links. I was then told by someone else the black could be 100amp, and on my way home I stopped by the auto shop near me, there it was suggested these might be much lower, with the black around 24 amps and the others even less. I am now confused, so in the morning, I will be asking a local auto sparky who's been around a long time. Hopefully he'll have some info for me. If not, it's off to nissan I go, since I need to get this sorted. If I find out more, I'll let you know. If you find out before me I wouldn't mind if you let me know.
Cheers
It will be interesting to see what you come up with. Cheers.
G'day again, so I've been to see a few people today, nissan said they could order the links out of japan for the bargain price of about $151.00 or so for the three wires...... (Even they couldn't tell me the ratings though).
So after I was happy I wasn't having a heart attack, I went to the sparky. He told me he thought the amp ratings were in line with the colours I had matched in modern links, black 80 amps, though he suggested using a 100amp, brown 50 amps and green 40 amps. So as far as I can tell, that's the ratings, at least that's what I'll be installing. He also suggested using fuses not fusible links. I was thinking that's all good then, although he's not doing the work hence he also isn't accountable I suppose in the event it went wrong.....
I'm going to order some of the midi fuses, as they have good connections and are fairly tidy, and will install them once they get here, ebay is waaaayyy cheaper than the local shops. Sparky said my setup is ok in the meantime since I still have part of the fusible link in place, but I still want to pop in new fuses just to be sure.
Bear in mind I cannot give any guarantees on the above info being accurate, it's just what I've been told, and none of it in writing, so I would suggest others should talk to an auto sparky they trust, since I'm not qualified to give advice! Above is just my experiences thus far.
Therefore, if anyone out there can get better info, I'd be happy to listen :-)
Sorry, I couldn't get any better info out of my local contacts.
I would use the following.
Black - 70amp fusible link.....connects to a large White wire.
Brown (headlights) - 30amp fusible link...... connects to a Red wire.
Green - 40amp fusible link.... connects to a White wire with Red trace
Thanks for the info, blokes. I will run fuses, as the fusable links were getting hot, that is why I unwittingly rewired them in the first place. That price from Mr Nissan is outrageous.
I replaced a triple cluster of fusible links on my 80 series here in the US. Cost about $12 from the dealer. Oz pricing is obscene for a lot of auto related stuff.
Anyhow, I replaced the fusible links on my old MQ this past trip back to oz with Midi fuses. I had a fusible link failure in the bush that was 'fixed' with a few strands of standard copper wire, guesstimating at what was needed to maintain wiring protection and not blow instantly.
Regarding fusible links and Midi fuses, they are not fast blow. A fusible link takes many seconds (or even a minute or more) to blow at slight overcurrent (say 20% - 40%) and progressively faster at higher overcurrent. Midi fuses have a similar characteristic (google their time rating versus overcurrent) and so are a great replacement from fusible links. Also, it's easy to take a few spare Midi fuses along and are much nicer (with lugs) than the connector based fusible links. Make sure you do a GOOD/EXCELLENT job of putting lugs on where you 'insert' the Midi fuse/holder. Keep the Midi fuse/holder CLOSE to the battery since it is to protect the wiring from the battery due to a catastrophic short/failure in wiring etc (e.g. vehicle crash).
So, I do recommend Midi fuses versus the total dealer ripoff in oz. Fusible links do age and I've seen failures in other vehicles that are just due to age and corrosion etc and NOT due to over current. They are typically silicone covered to deal with the heat they generate. Yes, they DO get hot while in use since they have quite a bit of current flowing through them and they continue to get hotter and hotter (at overcurrent) till they burn out - hence the silicone insulation to protect the surrounding area from the VERY hot internal wire.
cheers,
george.
That's good info too, thanks.