Wheel bearing

Guy doin my pinkslip noticed play in the front wheels so I had a look and found on drivers side the wheel bearing locknuts were finger tight and found I was able to pull out the first bearing without removing the brake rotor.. I did the same on passenger side but to get to the bearings I had to remove rotar and wheel hub.. did the previous owner just do a botched job or am I missing something haha

Sounds like they worked loose. Did they have split pins?

G'day Graham,
one thing's for sure, both sides are the same so take them both off, keep all the parts in order and you'll see what has been done right or wrong.
The inner bearing needs to be released by knocking a rubber/inlaid metal spiral out of the brake rotor by tapping the bearing from inside but from memory the outer bearing is held in place by the locking nuts and washer only. I think.
The lock nut is run up to a high tension when reassembling but then released to virtually finger pressure. To stop the bearings grinding out under excess pressure.
Hope this helps.
Col.

Thanks guys! Well I ended up repacking and nipping up the nuts a bit tighter, passenger side has zero slap and driver side went from 10-20mm to 3-4mm.. I also discovered that the bearings were correctly seated inside passenger wheel hub howevrt on driver side, the outer bearing cup (first one you encounter) ,that i assume holds it inside the wheel hub had sustained massive damage and no longer require hammering in to seat it so it just falls into place.. I feared that the wheel hub had been bored out due to the damage so I tried with the other bearing cup but was happy to find it was a snug fit and no apparent damage to inner wheel hub!
I want to eventually redo the hubs with gq components, my model truck has tabbed washers and 54mm hex locknuts which is just a pain in the ass to work with.
Anyway do you think the play is due to the wheel bearing or perhaps other components like races/cups? In my eyes wheel bearings should last forever provided theyre well greased and are free from noise

Graham,
I'm pushing my memory uphill with a pointy stick here but I think the 'cup' you mention is only a grease seal and the bearings are held in place by the nut and locking system.
Am I mistaken again in thinking the GQ has the large (maybe 54mm) nuts and softish metal tabs? Seem to remember that mine did and therefore changing to GQ is no change at all. The GU has a different system which uses a special (or home made) tool with two pins rather than that difficult to use large spanner.
Can't help but wonder if you still have a problem though.
2-4mm play is more that I've ever had on a correctly fitted wheel/bearing. The zero on the other side is, I reckon, the correct fit.
As us bikies say, if it's got t*ts or wheels it's trouble.
Have fun
Col.

The larger bearing has a seal with brass backing, everything looks good there. I hammer in that seal and bearing whilst hub is off the car, I then put the hub on, rotate to make sure it sits snug then placed the next bearing, I put on the "cup" but I think its called a bushing.. Attachment 45486
Im referring to the part in bottom left corner.
That is the part that looks trashed and no longer requires hammering to seat it, almost free floats. I then put the thrust washer, locknut, lock tab washer, locknut... im ordering a new kit but I have a strong feeling there isnt any thing wrong with the bearings, perhaps the wheel hub has been bored out a few thou larger due to the previous loose setup..

Bloody hope not xD

Dunno mate,
the parts look good except for the top and bottom right ones. What's your model? Probably old age and red wine holding me back but I don't remember them from my GQ.
As both sides are identical, take them both off as suggested but this time, try all the L/H bearing components in the R/H side hub/spinner. Any difference in play then must come down to the spinner/rotor/whatever it's called being worn/rooted/machined etc..
Interchange each part if need be to find the one that's cactus. At least you've got one good set to use as a comparo.
Luck,
Col

Well went ahead and installed new bearings and re greased the cv joint but still see play in the wheel... bit frustrating! What else could cause play in a tyre, moving north south. I did see bearings inside the knuckle spindle perhaps they could be the problem

Sorry mate,
I've reached the end of my line here. It's been too many years since I worked on the Gq and although the the GU is virtually identical I can't picture in my mind what could still be causing play. If you're totally sure all the parts are good ( both sides) and swapping them over (left to right) doesn't aleviate the play, I'm lost.
Anyone else?????????
Col

Seems like that tyre is also a tiny bit toed out to the left when I return steering to center not sure if related. Thanks for the input also mate